any help on how to make a underground bunker....locking to make it out of concrete..i got a excavtor for digging the hole.....need help from here
hossxxx
Large as possible; PF 1000; have foundation drains; water proof it; have two right angle entry/exits, one hidden; large air intakes and exhausts, preferably hidden; pre-wired/pre-plumbed for comms, water, sewer, power, monitors, etc.; mechanical ventilation in addition to any electrical fans, etc.; garbage & waste storage area; decontamination area.
Just a few ideas off the top of my head.
Just a few ideas off the top of my head.
R46, UR200, TARAN, R9, Gnom, RT21, RT25, UR100, RT20P, RT22, TEMP-s, R36M, UR100N, KOPYE-R, RSS40, SKOROST, R36M2, Ikar, Topol M.
Did a hole twice as deep as you think you need it. The deeper and wider the hole the better.
Start your rebar structure away from the dirt walls. This give you the ability to insulate and waterproof the outside of the concrete/pumicecrete
After you have built your structure you can backfill of course.
Here's a link to explain in detail:http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...sor.com/community/forum/gba-pro-help/14305/best-sealant-underground-house-walls
pumicecrete.com is another good site
Start your rebar structure away from the dirt walls. This give you the ability to insulate and waterproof the outside of the concrete/pumicecrete
After you have built your structure you can backfill of course.
Here's a link to explain in detail:http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...sor.com/community/forum/gba-pro-help/14305/best-sealant-underground-house-walls
pumicecrete.com is another good site
Since you are new, welcome to the biggest and maybe the best survivalist forum around.
I used wood - logs but also covered the bunker/underground shelter with over 250 eighty pound bags of concrete.
And I probably should not repeat myself but this tells quite a bit >
Possibly you have not looked at all the bunker and underground shelter threads on this board? Quite a few scattered in the NBC Nuclear section as well as the General Prep section.
I have 4 pic threads showing quite a bit of my bunker and remote mtn survival retreat. But I think I should make one more pic thread only about bunkers.
Here is some info which hope some can find helpful >
My bunker-underground shelter, is a pole shelter and I have dug into the side of a hill-mountain. The main room especially was made from these plans from this excellent free book > http://www.ki4u.com/free_book/s73p933.htm
From the above link which shows what my main room plans are >
![Image]()
This design is told about in detail in the above link. It is Extremely strong since it was tested in nuclear tests in Nevada in the sixties. Pics of that are also in the above link.
It was very cheap for me to build since I have an abundance of trees. I think I used a little over 100 logs - poles in building my bunker. Not sure exactly how many trees were used but most of them were dead when I cut them down.
I made my own modifications such as using steel beams in parts of the structure and for more strength and support. And having two steel doors as shown in the pics I have put up on both my pic threads. I obtained the beams and steel doors free, from a factory.
And having one window in the bunker which was needed for more light although I keep it covered most of the time with a strong plywood covering.
Mainly so the heavy snows do not break the window. Although it is supposed to be an unbreakable plastic window that they threw away, which I obtained from a factory.
I also built 3 layers of logs on the roof instead of simply what the plans called for. Even twice as big of logs as the plans said to use. People can also use lumber but it would cost much more to build unless one could obtain - scrounge - free wood. Which I have also done.
I also put two woodstoves in the bunker, which I mostly only use the larger stove near the front door.
That Underground House book written by Mike Oehler is very interesting and I even worked for him in N. Idaho, a few miles south of Bonners Ferry in 1986.
But his book tells how to build an underground house cheaply. It really is not a bunker building book. His houses have a lot of windows, which he also build a more expensive one costing $2,000 which is 2 stories underground and also had a fallout shelter.
Anyone can email or pm me and I can send more info and even a pdf file on that book.
And for the one who does not sound like a survivalist but who asked "what you need a bunker for?" >
Here are a Few advantages to having a Bunker, underground shelter some even build an Underground house >
"We believe that when designed and built
properly on suitable sites, Post/Shoring/
Polyethylene, or PSP, underground dwellings
are the finest that can be constructed.
They have 23 distinct advantages over conventional
structures. These are:
1. NO FOUNDATION.
2. LESS BUILDING MATERIAL.
3. LESS LABOR.
4. MOST AESTHETICALLY PLEASING.
5. LESS TAX.
6. WARM IN WINTER.
7. COOL IN SUMMER.
8. BETTER VIEW.
9. BUILT-IN GREENHOUSE.
10. ECOLOGICALLY SOUND.
11. INCREASED YARD SPACE.
12. FALLOUT SHELTER.
13. CUTS ATMOSPHERIC RADIATION.
14. DEFENSIBLE.
15. CONCEALMENT.
16. CLOSER TO SOURCE OF WATER.
17. RELATIVELY FIREPROOF.
18. PIPES NEVER FREEZE.
19. SUPERIOR FLOORING.
20. CAN BE BUILT BY ANYONE.
21. WEATHERPROOF.
22. LESS MAINTENANCE.
23. SOUNDPROOF."
The previous quote is from Mike Oehler's "The $50 and Up Underground House Book" page 10
Link to some pics of Mike Oehler's > http://www.undergroundhousing.com/structures.html
I used wood - logs but also covered the bunker/underground shelter with over 250 eighty pound bags of concrete.
And I probably should not repeat myself but this tells quite a bit >
Possibly you have not looked at all the bunker and underground shelter threads on this board? Quite a few scattered in the NBC Nuclear section as well as the General Prep section.
I have 4 pic threads showing quite a bit of my bunker and remote mtn survival retreat. But I think I should make one more pic thread only about bunkers.
Here is some info which hope some can find helpful >
My bunker-underground shelter, is a pole shelter and I have dug into the side of a hill-mountain. The main room especially was made from these plans from this excellent free book > http://www.ki4u.com/free_book/s73p933.htm
From the above link which shows what my main room plans are >
This design is told about in detail in the above link. It is Extremely strong since it was tested in nuclear tests in Nevada in the sixties. Pics of that are also in the above link.
It was very cheap for me to build since I have an abundance of trees. I think I used a little over 100 logs - poles in building my bunker. Not sure exactly how many trees were used but most of them were dead when I cut them down.
I made my own modifications such as using steel beams in parts of the structure and for more strength and support. And having two steel doors as shown in the pics I have put up on both my pic threads. I obtained the beams and steel doors free, from a factory.
And having one window in the bunker which was needed for more light although I keep it covered most of the time with a strong plywood covering.
Mainly so the heavy snows do not break the window. Although it is supposed to be an unbreakable plastic window that they threw away, which I obtained from a factory.
I also built 3 layers of logs on the roof instead of simply what the plans called for. Even twice as big of logs as the plans said to use. People can also use lumber but it would cost much more to build unless one could obtain - scrounge - free wood. Which I have also done.
I also put two woodstoves in the bunker, which I mostly only use the larger stove near the front door.
That Underground House book written by Mike Oehler is very interesting and I even worked for him in N. Idaho, a few miles south of Bonners Ferry in 1986.
But his book tells how to build an underground house cheaply. It really is not a bunker building book. His houses have a lot of windows, which he also build a more expensive one costing $2,000 which is 2 stories underground and also had a fallout shelter.
Anyone can email or pm me and I can send more info and even a pdf file on that book.
And for the one who does not sound like a survivalist but who asked "what you need a bunker for?" >
Here are a Few advantages to having a Bunker, underground shelter some even build an Underground house >
"We believe that when designed and built
properly on suitable sites, Post/Shoring/
Polyethylene, or PSP, underground dwellings
are the finest that can be constructed.
They have 23 distinct advantages over conventional
structures. These are:
1. NO FOUNDATION.
2. LESS BUILDING MATERIAL.
3. LESS LABOR.
4. MOST AESTHETICALLY PLEASING.
5. LESS TAX.
6. WARM IN WINTER.
7. COOL IN SUMMER.
8. BETTER VIEW.
9. BUILT-IN GREENHOUSE.
10. ECOLOGICALLY SOUND.
11. INCREASED YARD SPACE.
12. FALLOUT SHELTER.
13. CUTS ATMOSPHERIC RADIATION.
14. DEFENSIBLE.
15. CONCEALMENT.
16. CLOSER TO SOURCE OF WATER.
17. RELATIVELY FIREPROOF.
18. PIPES NEVER FREEZE.
19. SUPERIOR FLOORING.
20. CAN BE BUILT BY ANYONE.
21. WEATHERPROOF.
22. LESS MAINTENANCE.
23. SOUNDPROOF."
The previous quote is from Mike Oehler's "The $50 and Up Underground House Book" page 10
Link to some pics of Mike Oehler's > http://www.undergroundhousing.com/structures.html
I have seen different shelters over the years on the internet and on TLC. Biggest problems, ground water seepage and ventilation. Is there any chance you would consider a cement block structure built above ground then bermed and covered with soil? It may make your job easier. Just my two cents, good luck with your build.
Ever thought about using land sea containers? You could do all the wiring and modifications you need and then just put them in the ground and cover them up.
Pretty much so. Need to weld the doors and seams shut. Best to tar it also to keep it from rotting, and as an extra layer of protection. Make acess through the roof with a guarded trap door. Also might want to consider a secondary egress. Shipping containers are cheap and very durable. Plus the steel wont burn and will contain a blast.
underground bunkers
one thought with shipping containers is to put extra paint on the outside , and
on the bottom side , put tar paper , roofing felt on the sides and top .
then put about 1 ft of gravel on all side with landscaping fabric against the dirt.
and gravel under the box then build a sump pump hole on one end to pump the water out . old shingles work good on the top , then cover with dirt or concrete .
one thought with shipping containers is to put extra paint on the outside , and
on the bottom side , put tar paper , roofing felt on the sides and top .
then put about 1 ft of gravel on all side with landscaping fabric against the dirt.
and gravel under the box then build a sump pump hole on one end to pump the water out . old shingles work good on the top , then cover with dirt or concrete .
your main concern should be - UNDERGROUND WATER!!!
those m. f-ers can ruin your work and make you ...let's just say, feel bad
if your land has high water, you would need some kind of drainage underneat your bunker, and some "hole" where that water will go
on the building part - you need to think about what will you use it for,and for how long
i will presume that it will be your hideout place in case of some SHTF
you need to make thick concrete walls, you need water supply, electricity maybe,AIR SUPPLY (most important,you don't wanna get out of O2), heat solution (at first it may be really cold,but later,from body heat, space gets warmer - you need to lose excess heat)
for more, you need to tell us what is your budget, what is main reason for building it,and, whats soil on what you want to build it,and underground water probs
those m. f-ers can ruin your work and make you ...let's just say, feel bad
if your land has high water, you would need some kind of drainage underneat your bunker, and some "hole" where that water will go
on the building part - you need to think about what will you use it for,and for how long
i will presume that it will be your hideout place in case of some SHTF
you need to make thick concrete walls, you need water supply, electricity maybe,AIR SUPPLY (most important,you don't wanna get out of O2), heat solution (at first it may be really cold,but later,from body heat, space gets warmer - you need to lose excess heat)
for more, you need to tell us what is your budget, what is main reason for building it,and, whats soil on what you want to build it,and underground water probs
Just a thought. The idea of having a bunker is great but I think it is usless if you cant do it your self and keep it hush hush to a certian degree. For fun I have thought of the following plan for my own use and want to try and do it on my own mabey you can beat me to it.
We have secured a BOL and it has a small dwelling on it. It is remote and breaking in would not be hard with no one home. I have a corner of the property that is overgrown and it drops of 10-12 feet shortly after the property line.
I was thinking of buying a small used grain bin and disassembling it. Then digging a hole large enough for it, pouring a base and then reerecting the bin in the hole.
Given that the proper water proofing steps were taken and the outside was coated with a good rubberized undercoating of some sort It should last for many years and you could do it all by yourself.
If you really wanted it hardened you could make a rebar frame, renforce the insides and fill the rest of the space with concrete. Have the concrete 2-3 feet from the surface and back fill dirt in.
For camoflauge spread a good mixture of chicken and cow manure and plant some black berries and let them cover the place. A simple lattuce frame might be able to keep a door hidden from obivious view.
Or put a little building of some sort over it.
I havent done the reasearch on how to get the concrete with out a company truck, mabey with a couple of close friends and renting a couple of mixers it could be done in a weekend. Or several hundred bags of Quickcrete and a water hose.
I will prolly never get to do it but it dosent hurt to plan.
We have secured a BOL and it has a small dwelling on it. It is remote and breaking in would not be hard with no one home. I have a corner of the property that is overgrown and it drops of 10-12 feet shortly after the property line.
I was thinking of buying a small used grain bin and disassembling it. Then digging a hole large enough for it, pouring a base and then reerecting the bin in the hole.
Given that the proper water proofing steps were taken and the outside was coated with a good rubberized undercoating of some sort It should last for many years and you could do it all by yourself.
If you really wanted it hardened you could make a rebar frame, renforce the insides and fill the rest of the space with concrete. Have the concrete 2-3 feet from the surface and back fill dirt in.
For camoflauge spread a good mixture of chicken and cow manure and plant some black berries and let them cover the place. A simple lattuce frame might be able to keep a door hidden from obivious view.
Or put a little building of some sort over it.
I havent done the reasearch on how to get the concrete with out a company truck, mabey with a couple of close friends and renting a couple of mixers it could be done in a weekend. Or several hundred bags of Quickcrete and a water hose.
I will prolly never get to do it but it dosent hurt to plan.
One of the best and cheapest and also fastest ways to go. Just be sure to cover the entire containter with tar before you backfill it. Metal rusts and very quickly. You can but an all metal convex 40' long out here in Az. for about $3,000.00 Much cheaper then you can build the equivielent stucture out of just about anything else, inlcuding lumber.
The top and sides will pull away from the frame if you put 3 foot of dirt on a conex container. It either has to be reenforced from the inside or outside. We are planning on using 3/4 inch plywood to support the ceiling with 2x4s turned on the 2 inch side every 12 inches, then screw 1/2 inch plywood to the wall with styrofoam insulation in the pockets. Then cover outside with 6 inches of concrete.
No cave in of the roof, no lateral wall collapse.
Of course YMMV.
No cave in of the roof, no lateral wall collapse.
Of course YMMV.
Everybody talks about burying a shipping container. One thing not to forget is that most shipping containers are NOT designed to withhold the kind of force, on the sides and top of the container, that the dirt from burying it creates. They are designed to spread the load down from the corners only. First hand knowledge here - tried making bunkers out of them before only to have the sides cave in from the pressure of the dirt. Word of caution!
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