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My plan, if I get the place I'm looking at, is to invest in more solar options (been looking at Inergy and ecoflow) as well as expansive in place solar panels and such. Gas powered generators, and expanded fuel storage, is also on the list.
 
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Camping refrigerators and freezers are good for...camping or total off grid minimalist living. Most American families aren't in those 2 groups but have families to feed and prep for. And at least here and on other websites like this one, families stock up on frozen foods...in quantity. We have a full size 26 cubic foot refrigerator/freezer drawing 3.1 amps, a 16 cubic foot refrigerator/freezer drawing 1.7 amps, and a 17 cubic foot upright freezer drawing 1.2 amps of power. All three are 120 volt / 60 Hz units. These are all "domestic" units. No need for munchkin sized camping units.

I'm curious as to how many amps your camping fridge draws, and what size it is?
True this, as well.

But- I was super impressed with our RV fridges.

Our fridge in our larger pop up was a larger dorm room size but it could run off of 12v battery, shore power or propane. Packing it was a PITA unless you raised the roof and deployed the beds to pack the whole camper- which was not convenient where we lived at that time. So we got real proficient at crawling inside a closed up pop up to pack the fridge. BUT, it could run off of the 12v pop up battery while rolling down the road, which was immaculate. And it had a teeny tiny little freezer shelf thingy- think 2 ice trays and a couple of ice cream bars.

The fridge in our hard sided travel trailer was much larger, smallish household size by today's standards albeit it had a completely separate freezer compartment and it was too large to run off of a single 12v rv/marine battery. (I don't know what's possible now but back in the day, there was room to put 2 batteries on the tray, on the trailer tongue, but the RV wasn't wired AFAIK to run 2 batteries at one time, so you weren't running 2 batteries at a time to run 1 fridge/freezer.) We had a 12v cooler as well, which we used in the tow vehicle and while on site. Between the generously sized fridge (for our 18' rv) and the 12v cooler, we lived quite comfortably for up to 2 weeks out at a time, as far south as the Florida Keys in April, and every where on the southern Mid-Atlantic to the southern coastal regions all year round. (We camped, comfortably, in our larger pop up with a/c and that 3 way fridge in August in Charleston, Beaufort and Edisto SC with solid hacks. I've personally logged an interior temp of 74' inside our larger pop up at midday in August in Charleston SC.)

The 2 way fridge/freezer combination in the hard sided travel trailer was immaculate running off of propane.

I finally got used to running it off of propane while we were enroute, rolling down the road. (Traveling as far south as The Keys rather mandates it.)
It is imperative that one learn 'The Rules of The Road' when operating a propane fridge/freezer while traveling, not only what they are but why they are, otherwise you'll never keep them straight.

1. One must PULL OVER AND SHUT OFF ALL PROPANE TANKS PRIOR TO ENTERING ANY TYPE OF TRANSPORTATION TUNNEL. This was to prevent open flow lines of propane from causing or fueling a fire inside the tunnel in the event of a collision. IIRC, AFAIK it was not required that one shut off the RV fridge, although in retrospect, concerning the generation of sparks, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to shut the fridge off (and the water heater, if you tow/travel with a full, operating water heater, we did not) as you are shutting off the propane in preparation for entering a tunnel while traveling. Fewer sparks = fewer combustion opportunities.

2. One must PULL OVER AND SHUT OFF THE FRIDGE/FREEZER (AND THE WATER HEATER, IF IT IS FULL AND OPERATIONAL) BEFORE ENTERING ANY FUELING LANE AT A GAS STATION. This is because ignition sparks can light up gas fumes. ALSO PULL WELL OUT OF THE FUELING LANES BEFORE RE-STARTING SAID APPLIANCES.

All this being said:
RV fridges/freezers, which run off of condensing units rather than off of compressors, run extremely efficiently on propane. They sipped propane and stayed super cold- MUCH colder than on shore power, which was honestly not enough sometimes on the best days, and subjected your precious and expensive rv appliances to damaging level brown outs on the worst days.

When traveling up and down the mid Atlantic to southern Atlantic coast during the colder months, we ran the rv fridge/freezer on shore power and saved the propane for the gas furnace primarily and for hot water and cooking secondarily. When traveling in the same areas during the hotter months, we relied on an electric griddle and a Lodge hibachi for cooking outside and saved the propane for running the fridge/freezer on the road and in camp.

One advantage that tri-fuel/dual-fuel rv appliances have over similar residential appliances is that the RV appliances, by design, vent their heat and fumes OUTSIDE.
I'm honestly not sure, in this regard, about RV propane and/or natural gas appliances employed for residential use, or even about standard residential propane appliances.
I would assume that residential gas appliances either vent fumes by code or are rated as operating in a safe manner re: gas fumes and interiors. Example: approved, unvented gas fireplaces, both natural gas and LP fueled.

Our first house: all electrical, no combustables, no pilot lights.

In our second home we had 2 natural gas fireplaces, one in the master bedroom, one in the family room. We soon learned to turn those pilot lights OFF during the summer, due to the heat they produced and the gas they burned, uselessly, during the summer months. The natural gas water heater was in the garage so we didn't feel that heat inside during the warm months. Ditto the two natural gas furnaces: one was in the attic, one was in the garage. The pilot light heat wasn't in the conditioned envelop of the living space of the house. Electric range.

In our third home, the gas furnace and the gas water heater, both natural gas, were in the laundry room inside the conditioned space of the house. Not sure about shutting off the pilot light for that furnace during the warmer months, never tried, but the pilot light for both the water heater and the furnace were inside the house and ran all year long. The heat from the pilot lights in the laundry room were palpable during the summer. Electric range. We strongly supplemented the natural gas furnace/carried the house with a pellet stove. During those years a pellet stove vs. natural gas was a toss up in terms of cost, except:
Our natural gas provider increased our rates in one year, by one year alone, by 25%.
I often bought pellets 'on the margin': toward the end of the heating season, say in March, I'd walk the aisles of the local big box stores that carried heating pellets. IF, 1. They had pellets that I liked, and 2. They had pellets, I'd politely ask for the store manager and I would politely, with all kinds of exits and back out clauses, offer LET'S MAKE A DEAL. We'd renovated that house in town using those vendors so we were well known as reliable. Our credit card charges went through, and I was going to use our cash back/rewards credit card, because, CASH BACK. Furthermore, my truck was in their parking lot and they knew me personally as someone who would pull right up and sling bags of pellets right along with their staff, and I/we did not complain overall.

Our fourth house, this house:
CAT wood stove, which so far has carried the house.
Heat pump, rarely invoked.
Condensing gas furnace, in the crawl space, rarely invoked, we don't mess with the pilot light.
Gas range, sealed pilot lights, we don't mess with them.
On demand gas water heater, we don't mess with the pilot lights.
^^^ All gas appliances powered by LP.

We are and have been actively engaged in Operation Keep the LP Gas in the Tank.

We have stood in Amish/Plain Orders homes in the summer.
Their ranges/stoves, fridges, washers, and residential lights, and I'm only guessing here whatever appliances their individual congregation bishops approve run (largely) on propane (a small amount on a small amount of bishop approved solar.)
AFAIK the vast amount of heat from the use of and the pilot lights from those appliances ends up inside their houses. In our limited experience, that heat was palpable inside the house.

IMHO, the use of tri-fuel and/or bi-fuel RV appliances is quite interesting, especially given the impacts in either direction. Advantages, disadvantages, caveats.
But yeah, interesting, rv appliances in semi-grid/off-grid applications.
 
Camping refrigerators and freezers are good for...camping or total off grid minimalist living. Most American families aren't in those 2 groups but have families to feed and prep for. And at least here and on other websites like this one, families stock up on frozen foods...in quantity. We have a full size 26 cubic foot refrigerator/freezer drawing 3.1 amps, a 16 cubic foot refrigerator/freezer drawing 1.7 amps, and a 17 cubic foot upright freezer drawing 1.2 amps of power. All three are 120 volt / 60 Hz units. These are all "domestic" units. No need for munchkin sized camping units.

I'm curious as to how many amps your camping fridge draws, and what size it is?
The current draw (to keep things frozen) of my five (portable) camping and camper trailer mounted fridge/freezers is about 1 amp each - but that is at 12 volts - so less than 8% of the combined power that yours draw.

That is why they can be run 100% offgrid - without burning any fuel (that might be irreplaceable) - without making any noise - for as long as the Lithium batteries, solar panel, MPPT controllers they run on keep working (>15 years?). They can also be transported anywhere I may need to go........

Note that I have done that in trials lasting more than a month - so it is proven.

The combined volume of my fridge/freezers is about 20 cubic feet - and that can be any split of fridge and freezer that I want - so even 90% freezer.

In my experience, home freezer space is like shed space - what you end up keeping in them expands to fill available space - and often, for freezers, that is a lot of bags of left-overs that should have been eaten while they were still fresh.

I assess that I don't need more freezer space than I have........most of my calories are stored in LTS foods that don't need freezer space. I have enough freezer space to transfer all my current frozen foods to the 12V fridge/freezers - again, I have done that during past short term outages. In a long term severe crisis, the freezers would mostly be used to process livestock we own and any game animals that are still around.

Off grid minimalist living (and even camping) are better models for how to survive a severe long term crisis than whole of house generators that people use to handle short term power outages.

I assess that there are broadly two groups of people posting in this thread - those that are basing their backup power needs (and wants) on short term common outages (and assume that the fuel for their backup generator will always be available) and those that are basing their backup power needs (and only needs), on long term severe crises (where replacement fuel will be unavailable, where the noise of a big generator would attract problems and where portability provides another capability).
 
The current draw (to keep things frozen) of my five (portable) camping and camper trailer mounted fridge/freezers is about 1 amp each - but that is at 12 volts - so less than 8% of the combined power that yours draw.

The combined volume of my fridge/freezers is about 20 cubic feet - and that can be any split of fridge and freezer that I want - so even 90% freezer.
There shouldn't be much difference technologically between compressor RV and residential frig/freezers all things be equal and absorption RV ones are even worse.
If RV ones are so much better, people would be swapping out their residential ones.
OTOH, there's many articles about using residential ones in RVs.
It's hard to compare a few numbers and get a result when circumstances are totally unknown.

Comparison -- a 2018 full 11cuft manual defrost chest freezer at 0F in a garage measured in the summer averaging 90F highs consumed an average of 28W over several weeks -- scaled up to 20cu ft, that's 50.9W or 4.24A @ 12V.
So, in the same ballpark.
Choose the most efficient frig/freezer that meets your needs.
It's too bad that the Energy Star .gov department doesn't do more products.
 
So far we haven't lost power. Wife slumped her shoulders and pooched out a lip when I told her the jen won't run the AC. I haven't even proofed this jen with my camper AC.

Bad planning and financing on me.

We have a 120v window unit we could bring in for the bedroom.

Gonna be tough if this heat doesn't let up.


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Gonna be?
 
There shouldn't be much difference technologically between compressor RV and residential frig/freezers all things be equal ........
Incorrect.

Camping and RV compressor fridges run on DC. Consequently they use compressor types that are fundamentally different to domestic AC powered fridges.

Four of mine use Sawafuji swing motors and one uses a Danfoss compressor. You won't find either of those compressor/motor systems in domestic AC fridge freezers.

OTOH, there's many articles about using residential ones in RVs
That would be applicable to RVs plugged into a trailer park.......the same trailer park that would be equally without power if the grid is down.
 
That would be applicable to RVs plugged into a trailer park.......the same trailer park that would be equally without power if the grid is down.
Not necessarily. I've known of a few who had large RVs that went the residential refrigerator route and they were not typically plugged into a trailer park at all. Having larger RVs, though, meant ample roof space for panels.
 
Not necessarily. I've known of a few who had large RVs that went the residential refrigerator route and they were not typically plugged into a trailer park at all. Having larger RVs, though, meant ample roof space for panels.
Residential fridges, as the vast majority off North America understands it to date, means shore power or propane for 'off grid.'
If they are solar with panels then they are either plugged into shore power at night/on cloudy days/on shaded camp sites, and/or running a propane or gasoline or diesel fired generator, or they have a residential solar grade lithium ion battery, or they are running at least the fridge if not the whole rv off of propane tanks for a good chunk of the excursion
 
Incorrect.

Camping and RV compressor fridges run on DC. Consequently they use compressor types that are fundamentally different to domestic AC powered fridges.

Four of mine use Sawafuji swing motors and one uses a Danfoss compressor. You won't find either of those compressor/motor systems in domestic AC fridge freezers.

That would be applicable to RVs plugged into a trailer park.......the same trailer park that would be equally without power if the grid is down.
thanks for the info! apparently compressors aren't just compressors. so cool, minimal startup current reducing inverter requirements.

are these DC compressors more efficient than "ordinary" compressors?
trying to get a feel whether RV 12V stuff would be useful off-grid when already running 120VAC inverters and appliances.
it would be a different story if I was already in the 12V world.
 
Residential fridges, as the vast majority off North America understands it to date, means shore power or propane for 'off grid.'
If they are solar with panels then they are either plugged into shore power at night/on cloudy days/on shaded camp sites, and/or running a propane or gasoline or diesel fired generator, or they have a residential solar grade lithium ion battery, or they are running at least the fridge if not the whole rv off of propane tanks for a good chunk of the excursion
Agreed.

I have tried running even one decent sized domestic/mains fridge/freezer off solar/lithium and it took more wattage/battery capacity to do that (in all weather conditions) than most people would guess.

The main reasons that people substitute RV type fridges for Domestic type fridges in RVs are:
  1. Capital cost - domestic fridges are much cheaper to buy than RV type fridges (of around the same size) - when the original RV fridge needs replacement, it is tempting to replace it with a much cheaper Domestic type fridge freezer.
  2. Size - you can get much bigger domestic type fridges than even the biggest RV type fridges - so people can expand their fridge space
Where people do that, the cost people pay is in power consumption and specifically the practicality of using genuinely offgrid/solar power.

As you mentioned, if people with Domestic type fridges in their RV are not using mains, then they are almost certainly using a generator.
 
thanks for the info! apparently compressors aren't just compressors. so cool, minimal startup current reducing inverter requirements.

are these DC compressors more efficient than "ordinary" compressors?
trying to get a feel whether RV 12V stuff would be useful off-grid when already running 120VAC inverters and appliances.
it would be a different story if I was already in the 12V world.
Yes they are much more efficient.

As you state and importantly, they also have much lower current draw on startup of the compressor. With the frequency that fridge freezers cycle on and off, the big current startup draw of conventional domestic fridge compressors can be a show stopper for offgrid systems (particularly those that stick to 12V DC to run an inverter).

My camper trailer uses mostly 12V appliances/lighting. Those are the most efficient. The few things we run off the 3000W inverter are the things that only run for a short amount of time each day (like microwave, induction cooker, rice cooker, toaster oven, air fryer). Being selective about what is run off 12v DC and mains AC can provide the best combined efficiency.

12V gear is a good prep - but those of us who like camping would be using it anyway.
 
The current draw (to keep things frozen) of my five (portable) camping and camper trailer mounted fridge/freezers is about 1 amp each - but that is at 12 volts - so less than 8% of the combined power that yours draw.

That is why they can be run 100% offgrid - without burning any fuel (that might be irreplaceable) - without making any noise - for as long as the Lithium batteries, solar panel, MPPT controllers they run on keep working (>15 years?). They can also be transported anywhere I may need to go........

Note that I have done that in trials lasting more than a month - so it is proven.

The combined volume of my fridge/freezers is about 20 cubic feet - and that can be any split of fridge and freezer that I want - so even 90% freezer.

In my experience, home freezer space is like shed space - what you end up keeping in them expands to fill available space - and often, for freezers, that is a lot of bags of left-overs that should have been eaten while they were still fresh.

I assess that I don't need more freezer space than I have........most of my calories are stored in LTS foods that don't need freezer space. I have enough freezer space to transfer all my current frozen foods to the 12V fridge/freezers - again, I have done that during past short term outages. In a long term severe crisis, the freezers would mostly be used to process livestock we own and any game animals that are still around.

Off grid minimalist living (and even camping) are better models for how to survive a severe long term crisis than whole of house generators that people use to handle short term power outages.

I assess that there are broadly two groups of people posting in this thread - those that are basing their backup power needs (and wants) on short term common outages (and assume that the fuel for their backup generator will always be available) and those that are basing their backup power needs (and only needs), on long term severe crises (where replacement fuel will be unavailable, where the noise of a big generator would attract problems and where portability provides another capability).
Yep, I do see where you are saving power. Your combined power draw is 5 amps for 20 cubic feet of refrigerated space. Mine is 6 amps of power for 59 cubic feet of refrigerated space. Amps are amps. We don't live in a camper and I don't intend to...and don't need to. I can power each of my units on my small solar setup and 12 volt battery with 120 volt inverter if needed. I just don't need to. My small 2kw inverter generator can power all 3 units and barely come above idle.

If power goes down and stays down permanently, it won't matter what you have...solar or generator. Generators make noise and solar panels are pretty...sitting out in the open. Others will want power if they weren't prepped and if they want it badly enough will get it. To each their own and it sounds like what you have works for you.
 
Yep, I do see where you are saving power. Your combined power draw is 5 amps for 20 cubic feet of refrigerated space. Mine is 6 amps of power for 59 cubic feet of refrigerated space. Amps are amps.
Power (in Watts) = current (in amps) x voltage (in volts)

5 amps x 12 volts is 60W

6 amps x 120 volts is 720W

In reality the power consumption of a mains system is a bit lower than that due to sine wave cycling of the voltage (RMS voltage).

If you think amps are amps then try running all of your domestic fridges with a 12 volt battery - it will be able to supply the 6 amps you need easily..............

If power goes down and stays down permanently, it won't matter what you have..
Oh no......the old "no point in prepping" cop out.

I disagree - these boards are here for people to discuss the things that really can make the difference between life and death. That is what survivalism is about.


solar panels are pretty...sitting out in the open
.......better not sit them out in the open then.......

To each their own and it sounds like what you have works for you.
I am not so very different than many others - so it might work for them too. That is why I posted about it.
 
Power (in Watts) = current (in amps) x voltage (in volts)

5 amps x 12 volts is 60W

6 amps x 120 volts is 720W

In reality the power consumption of a mains system is a bit lower than that due to sine wave cycling of the voltage (RMS voltage).

If you think amps are amps then try running all of your domestic fridges with a 12 volt battery - it will be able to supply the 6 amps you need easily..............



Oh no......the old "no point in prepping" cop out.

I disagree - these boards are here for people to discuss the things that really can make the difference between life and death. That is what survivalism is about.




.......better not sit them out in the open then.......



I am not so very different than many others - so it might work for them too. That is why I posted about it.
I've been prepping all my life actually. I grew up in hurricane country and came back after retiring from the military. I've been through many emergencies and our preps seem to have worked. And the 6 amps of power is for 59 cubic feet of refrigerated space...not 20ish. Each unit can be powered easily by a 12 volt deep cycle battery/inverter and simple solar setup. And refrigeration keeps getting more and more efficient in decreasing power consumption. Our preps have worked over decades of trial and error. And I've learned from members posting in this forum. Good info from you on the 12 volt refrigerators. If we ever buy a camper, I would go with a 12 volt refrigerator.
 
Domestic, residential fridges/freezers run off of compressors.
RV fridges/freezers run off of condensers, a whole different set of physics and mechanisms.

To put it in very oversimplistic terms,:

Compressors are more similar to the heat pump/ reverse heat pump HVAC a/c in your land based, residential home. They are energy hogs, IMHO. They extract heat from the ambient air, or remove heat

Condensers bridge the gap between swamp coolers and compressors with huge energy driven temperature differentials. Condensers rely on moving coolant over fans- coolant that needs to be moved over fans. And by design, the coolant isn't water. It drops temps more efficiently, quicker than water. Still, likely more cost effective than compressors in small spaces, and especially at huge temp differentials. HVAC/reverse heat pump/compressor driven technology, residential, has about a 20'f differential. (Ask me how I know.) (We are, right this moment, dropping the temp and humidity in our house with the central a/c, against today's heat and humidity, and against tomorrow's severe heat warning.)

That condenser coolant needs to be kept at a specific level relative to the horizon/ground level. If it's not level, the differential that moves the coolant is under extreme stress. It may fail.

This is a very informative thread.
I appreciate everyone's participation.
Thank you. <3
 
Domestic, residential fridges/freezers run off of compressors.
RV fridges/freezers run off of condensers, a whole different set of physics and mechanisms.

To put it in very oversimplistic terms,:

Compressors are more similar to the heat pump/ reverse heat pump HVAC a/c in your land based, residential home. They are energy hogs, IMHO. They extract heat from the ambient air, or remove heat

Condensers bridge the gap between swamp coolers and compressors with huge energy driven temperature differentials. Condensers rely on moving coolant over fans- coolant that needs to be moved over fans. And by design, the coolant isn't water. It drops temps more efficiently, quicker than water. Still, likely more cost effective than compressors in small spaces, and especially at huge temp differentials. HVAC/reverse heat pump/compressor driven technology, residential, has about a 20'f differential. (Ask me how I know.) (We are, right this moment, dropping the temp and humidity in our house with the central a/c, against today's heat and humidity, and against tomorrow's severe heat warning.)

That condenser coolant needs to be kept at a specific level relative to the horizon/ground level. If it's not level, the differential that moves the coolant is under extreme stress. It may fail.

This is a very informative thread.
I appreciate everyone's participation.
Thank you. <3
Are you referring to "absorption" cooling for RV refrigeration? This would be gas (propane) fueled for RV use. They aren't nearly as efficient in cooling as electric whether DC or AC powered. All electric refrigeration devices use compressors, condensers, and evaporators. Refrigerant needs to be compressed or condensed in order to be expanded (pressure lowered) in the evaporator coils as opposed to gas fired absorption systems. Absorption systems using heat provided by gas (propane) aren't nearly as efficient in cooling as electric compressor driven systems. The latest electric compressors in refrigeration are quite energy efficient whether DC or AC.

HVAC systems are less efficient in energy use because of the many factors heating up the air in a home as opposed to a closed refrigerator or freezer. Opening exit doors, much less insulation, cooking, heating water, windows, exterior venting, building outer surfaces exposed to sunlight, even people generating body heat add to HVAC loading in cooling mode. None of this exists in a refrigerator.

I'm not an expert in refrigeration and am always willing to learn.
 
Are you referring to "absorption" cooling for RV refrigeration? This would be gas (propane) fueled for RV use. They aren't nearly as efficient in cooling as electric whether DC or AC powered. All electric refrigeration devices use compressors, condensers, and evaporators. Refrigerant needs to be compressed or condensed in order to be expanded (pressure lowered) in the evaporator coils as opposed to gas fired absorption systems. Absorption systems using heat provided by gas (propane) aren't nearly as efficient in cooling as electric compressor driven systems. The latest electric compressors in refrigeration are quite energy efficient whether DC or AC.

HVAC systems are less efficient in energy use because of the many factors heating up the air in a home as opposed to a closed refrigerator or freezer. Opening exit doors, much less insulation, cooking, heating water, windows, exterior venting, building outer surfaces exposed to sunlight, even people generating body heat add to HVAC loading in cooling mode. None of this exists in a refrigerator.

I'm not an expert in refrigeration and am always willing to learn.
MUCH better and more accurate description and explanation than mine! Thank you!
 
Are you referring to "absorption" cooling for RV refrigeration? This would be gas (propane) fueled for RV use. They aren't nearly as efficient in cooling as electric whether DC or AC powered. All electric refrigeration devices use compressors, condensers, and evaporators. Refrigerant needs to be compressed or condensed in order to be expanded (pressure lowered) in the evaporator coils as opposed to gas fired absorption systems. Absorption systems using heat provided by gas (propane) aren't nearly as efficient in cooling as electric compressor driven systems. The latest electric compressors in refrigeration are quite energy efficient whether DC or AC.

HVAC systems are less efficient in energy use because of the many factors heating up the air in a home as opposed to a closed refrigerator or freezer. Opening exit doors, much less insulation, cooking, heating water, windows, exterior venting, building outer surfaces exposed to sunlight, even people generating body heat add to HVAC loading in cooling mode. None of this exists in a refrigerator.

I'm not an expert in refrigeration and am always willing to learn.
Although I will mention that it's widely accepted in the RV community at large that RV fridges run more efficiently on propane. Conventional wisdom is to run on electricity/shore power if the fridge is keeping your food cold enough, because you paid for the electricity when you rented the site. Monitor the fridge temperature. When performance drops off, switch to propane. Propane is more expensive than the electricity you already paid for with the site but the fridge will run colder and it uses very little propane to do so.

It could all be relative, I guess. Many folks also correlated this with the level of demand on the RV park's electrical system by everyone blasting their air conditioners, running fridges and all of the other gadgets.
 
We live in NE Georgia's Chattahoochee NF. When heavy rains are followed by high winds, trees or limbs fall and knock out our power.
We have a whole house 22 kW 100 amp generator. Although it is overkill; it was available.
As we live on a mountain (rocky) and here 500 gallon propane tanks are required to be buried. We have two 250 gallon tanks. Due to expansion, each holds 200 gallons.

We also have a modest solar power setup and a few RV batteries. BTW, batteries are not forever.

Well said thess02!!
Even the ice cube trays for an absorption refrigerator are smaller than for a home refrigerator.
 
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