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welding with car batteries ?

3.2K views 21 replies 11 participants last post by  Happy Joe  
#1 ·
Anyone knows if this would work, see a lot of videos on YouTube. Try them my self and more times they fail than succeed! Isn't there a danger of the battery exploding, or damaging the cell? Car batteries when being charged give off explosive fumes welding close them to me seems crazy.

 
#4 ·
My team had a piece of equipment break in the field. We called for the welder. A crusty old Warrant Officer who had apprenticed as a blacksmith in the dark ages showed up in a jeep. He looked at the broken parts, told me to start the 5 ton and remove the battery box cover. This truck had the upgraded battery system with four large 12v batteries wired in series/parallel for high current 24V. He got a set of welding leads out of the jeep that had battery clamps on the other end. Clamped on to the batteries, burned a half dozen rods making one of the best looking welds you have ever seen. He rolled up his leads, put them back in the jeep, handed me a can of primer and a brush. He said to let the truck run until the batteries were fully charged and to wait for the metal to cool then paint it with the primer. Then got back in the jeep and drove away.
 
#5 ·
...I'm back, I guess..

Re welding with car batteries; Its very do able and can result in good solid welds when done by an experienced welder.
My recommendations
get a Good set of HEAVY duty copper jumper cables (cheap ones usually just go up in smoke aluminum ones may not work).
Get a #10 lense to protect your eyes I used to carry a set of cutting goggles with a#10 welding lens installed in place of the cutting lens. Note: there is some danger of sunburn due to the UV generated in welding but I never got any even after running 2-3 rods.
A rod can be held in a jumper cable clamp but it is a MAJOR PITA... get a rod holder from an old welder or from a welding shop for best results.
I use some 00 welding cable and put a jumper cable clamp on one end and arod holder (stinger) on the other.
I suggest getting a chipping hammer to remove flux (use caution when chipping it can be sharp s b broken glass and wants to get into eyes.
My favorite rod for battery welding is 5/32 7022 (deck rod..it levels very well) Mostly I use 1/8" 6010 or 6011 though
Note use caution hydrogen gas will be generated durring the high discharge rates when welding and can result in a battery explosion with sulfuric/battery acid getting every where (has never happend to be i; but its a risk.
Use 2fairly good 12 volt starting batteries (with a good charge on them)
using one of the jumper cables wire them in series + to _ on one side
Connect the stinger cable clamp onto the open + terminal and one end of the remaining jumper cable on the - terminal of the other battery, there should not have been any sparks.
put on the goggles with the #10 lens installed to keep from burning your eyes/retinas)
connect the free end of the jumper cable to the work piece (use a piece of junk steel to get experience)
put a welding rod in the stinger (the exposed metal end goes into the stinger)
lower the goggles & gently scratch the end of the welding rod in the singer on the work piece it should make a n arc.
If it sticks or the rod goes up in smoke exchange the terminal that the stinger is attached to and the ground jumper cable (change the polarity)
If you can't get an arc clean the battery terminals.
if you still cant make it work try charging the batteries (sticking and hard to get an arc are symptoms of low battery charge.
Note sometimes the jumper clamps can melt into the battery terminals; Be aware and check them to keep from damaging the terminal.

For very heavy metal you can use 3 batteries in series but it can blow holes in thinner metal like 3/16 plate.
When you finally get a bead run, protect your eyes and chip away the slag/flux with a punchand hammer or a chipping hammer; you cant tell a good weld from bad if its hidden by the slag/flux.

Variations; I have seen people use a wire gun and flux cored wire in stead of welding rod.

Enjoy!
 
#6 ·
I recently had to repair my sawmill out in the woods. I used batteries and a salt water resister to keep the amps down so it wouldn't burn through the 1/4inch steel.

I wouldn't recomend it as a "go to" way to do all your welding but sometimes it is easier to get 3 or 4 batteries into the woods for a quick weld than it is to get your broken machine close enough to the grid to weld it with a welder.
 
#12 ·
Having glued many off road vehicles together , in the wilds and desert; I typically use a general purpose rod like 1/8" 6010 or 6011 (on of these is a DC rod both work equally well.. If you are blowing holes in 1/4" plate try going from 3 batteries in series (36 volts) to 2 batteries in series (24 volts) works pretty well for general purpos repairs.on medium thick steel (in the 1/8" and thicker range.... I have even shortened/lengthened drive shafts this way (take extreme care to get them straight.

Once you get addicted to welding I recommend getting a 220 volt Mig welder.

Enjoy!
 
#13 ·
Anyone knows if this would work, see a lot of videos on YouTube. Try them my self and more times they fail than succeed! Isn't there a danger of the battery exploding, or damaging the cell? Car batteries when being charged give off explosive fumes welding close them to me seems crazy.

I've had one of these for years, highly recommend it.
While car batteries can be used, quality deep cycle batteries will allow the operator to weld longer and outlast car batteries overall for this application.