I've had a lot of trouble trying to get them to hit anything, the long trigger pull seems to put them low and left or right a lot. Anticipation seems to be greater, causing jerks and bad habits. I tried a 22LR revolver to try and mitigate this, but the freaking trigger pull must have been 12 pounds... complete failure.
I can sympathize. What kind of .22 revolver? I generally like to use a butter smooth old Model 18 Smith for my .22 revolver intro. About 8lbs DA, but stacks & breaks nicely.
I also use a Ruger MKII for marksmanship fundamentals (and a S&W Model 41), because of rock solid accuracy, light triggers, excellent sights, and near zero recoil. But when I move a new shooter "up" in caliber and start focusing on self defense, it's ideally first with a steel framed duty revolver firing .38 wad cutters until they get used to the increase in recoil. K-frame or L-frame Smiths. Or a Ruger SP-101 or GP-100. Then on to "duty" loads.
I also start first time shooters off at about 3 yards from the target. Occasionally even less. It provides near instant feedback with every shot and allows them to put some kinesthetic correction into their next shots. By making use of the natural human ability to instinctively coordinate hand/eye pointing. BTW: That's exactly the distance that every US Army Special Forces Soldier (Green Beret) starts out at. In fact that's warm-up drill distance for long experienced shooters in SF. Shooting at 1" or 2" target pasters. The goal being to deliver coin tight groups completely covering those pasters for a few magazines, then back up to 5 or 7 yards and do it again. Use that as counter justification for the smart asses that complain about being "too close" to the paper target.
Having rank beginners trying to engage aiming points or silhouettes at 10, 15, or 25 yards is an exercise in frustration with little hope of correcting errors and tightening groups. They'll tend to be all over the paper. Maybe with a ragged shotgun pattern somewhere centered. They need to get close...to where they have absolute control of where the bullets go at point blank range... then take that winning combination of fundamentals and just back out to incrementally greater distances.
If I don't have the time (like only one range session), I try to steer newbies away from things that will bite them due to unusual operating considerations... like striker fired pistols, or cocked & locked SA 1911s, etc. Just because I realize that they really aren't going to get inculcated with truly safe handling skills in just a few minutes, hours, or a day. Not for those particular weapons. Not if they haven't shot firearms before (or not much at all).
I can teach a hoplophobe to safely handle a revolver (and hit with it) in an afternoon. As long as they have opposable thumbs and a willingness to learn. But if that's the last time I'm going to see them, I want their weapon choice to be as KISS as possible.
I'd be criminally liable in just handing someone a Glock, giving them physical manipulation drills and live fire range pointers, and then sending them on their way. Without truly appreciating that trigger system in terms of safety, holsters, carry considerations, malfunction drills, and keeping their finger off the trigger under stress. Not after only a few hours of instruction.
Many years ago, I had a family member ND a .40 Glock while investigating a prowler. I was away on business. My fault; I assumed they "got it" with very limited exposure to the weapon... and learned differently. Seen the same with a lot of subsequent LEO & military guys who really didn't get enough training. Relatively untrained folks will not rise above their relatively untrained level of performance when the time comes. Instead, they're liable to screw it up.
Just a few years ago in Iraq, I trained folks who'd never handled, much less fired, a pistol. Taught them to use G19s & Beretta M9s. But I demanded enough training time to ensure they got it right. Like teaching someone to drive a stick shift, it requires patience and attention to the little things. And more than one day at the range.
I've instructed thousands. Mostly military, US government, LEO, or foreign nationals. A lot fewer civilians, but still quite a few. Mostly semi-auto. But if I have an absolute beginner (and very limited classroom/range time), I prefer get them up to speed with a revolver first. Assuming that they aren't mandated to use or own a certain weapon.
But it needs to be a good revolver, with a decent trigger pull, some recoil soaking weight, and usable sight radius. Colt, S&W, Dan Wesson, Ruger. Taurus if you must. Preferably with adjustable sights. And something that isn't an Airweight snub. Another combo that is perfectly usable by an experienced shooter, but bad for a 1st time learner due to recoil and short sight radius.
I don't find it any more difficult to teach revolver vs. semi-auto (in service calibers) as far as the fundamentals of grip, stance, trigger pull, etc. The usual shooter errors apply to either and are correctable. I stress dry fire, ball and dummy drills, and close coaching to watch for things like breaking of wrist, heeling, side pressure on trigger, bad sight picture, flinching, recoil anticipation, loose grip, jerking the trigger, etc. And follow through (reacquiring good grip, sight picture, and SA of targets).
Naturally, someone is going to be more accurate on paper with that low recoiling and accurate .22 LR Ruger MKII, which is a good thing as far as internalizing marksmanship fundamentals. But they are going to learn to operate a Model 66 revolver for combat firing quicker than learning all the ins and outs of a CZ P-01, HK USP, Colt 1911, Glock 19, Smith M&P, Beretta 92FS, etc.
So I can focus more (with limited time) on getting hits downrange at short distances. On coaching & correcting proper grip, sight picture, and trigger pull with the revolver. Because the actual physical manipulation of the revolver is easier for a beginner. There's less happening mechanically to confuse them.