First very real and serious concern is the mounting of the device.

Anchor bolts aside, the need for the device on a stud is paramount.

Then you need to know your load ratings on the device. The way it looks on the picture is that it is mounted on a curtain wall and if not to a stud, it will pull out.

Once that aspect is considered, if your in Moscow or any other "cold" Russian area, weather protection and especially freezing aspects are important. if it ices up, your screwed.

 

A large anchor (for example, M20) in a reinforced concrete wall can withstand a couple of tons.
Icing? If there is no drainage above the anchor, where will the ice come from?

 

In the US, our codes are pretty specific. Anchor bolts not only need to pass through the full of the wall, but in most instances any load bearing including moment loads (temporary loads) need to exceed the listed rating typically by around 4 times.

Anchor bolts made of (US units here, you'll have to look into Russian code) is typically Grade 8 usually around 1/2 inch or thicker and has a load plate on the back.
Sometimes called a tributary plate, it spreads the load across multiple surface areas creating what is called tributary distribution. This translates to a wider area that holds the load while the load is applied. Preventing pull out.

The single biggest problem with any kind of metal device is that the metal will attract water and condensation. if the unit isn't sealed water WILL infiltrate the unit whenever ANY moisture is around.

i live in NM and we have relative humidity in the single digits. so ice isn't much of a problem.
In NYC, the humidity levels will exceed 40-60% relative. this means that the metal will attract condensation regardless and any opening will allow ice and water to buildup. Causing oxidization and possible failure.


The system looks pretty nice to have especially in an emergency.

 

Can you mount it on your building?
Can you safely mount it on your building?
Will you and everyone who lives in your apartment be able to practice with it?
Is it a multi use system? The video shows two people using it, but they don't show it being reset. They show the woman
going, cut the video then show it reset and the man going. How long does it take to reset it?
What makes this system better than a climbing rope, a harness and learning how to belay down?


I think such a system(if you can safely mount it and test it) could be a good option.

 

12 floors???
If a roof top rescue is not an option, then I would try to move.
12 floors x 12 feet each is 144 feet. Combine this with weather and the fact that your building is on fire.
You won't be thinking rationally, nor will the people around you.

I think that is a bad idea. Unless it starts with, "Hold my beer and watch this".
I would look for a plan C, D or even Z.

 

Track,

Re: opinion;

I factor into all this whether user is not injured, or sick when needing to activate.

If properly mounted and maintained, the repelling rope will surely work.

It is the user that is the major variable.

One of our colleagues above presented the advice that I'd rely on. If there is a concern, you must research moving.

 

I live in a two story home and made sure everyone knew how to get out if stair case is flamed. I had them set up and use window ladder

Some of the alternates I did not make them do a window to roof jump, but did make them walk to the edge and look.

12 stories though I would look into some rappelling gear and practice you could tie off anywhere and not be limited to a single bolt hole mount.
This would let you go out a neighbors window if fire was directly below you.
That rig also looked to be limited to about 15 meters

 

Speaking from one of the high rise capitals of the world, don't live in a building without both inside and outside egress and adjoining building roofs you can cross to in case of fire. Doing otherwise has a risk of ending badly that is well above zero. It's almost certain to eventually end badly for someone if you are also above the reach of even the longest fire-department ladders.

Somehow builders have managed to convince governments that fires will never spread up and down through their modern tall "fireproofed" buildings. Sometimes they manage to avoid the cost of installing sprinklers on the stairwells, let alone outside fire escapes, with that argument.

Real survivalists don't live in fire traps.

What you are looking at is probably better than nothing, but 100-plus feet is a long way to get everyone safely down, and it's going to be even longer if fire is shooting out windows beneath you. As for needing to extract, unpack, hang, and don an escape system before use, well, I guess some people are just eternal optimists.

 

Base jump. Good luck

 

No parachute needed.

 

The system looks good to me. I’d train with it. Also I’d mount the bolt so I don’t have to worry about weather. If you mount it above the window you don’t have to worry about it rubbing on the brick. But you could also just put something on the line to fix that.

That said 120 feet is a pretty good drop. I’d wanna try the stairs first.

 

no building owner is going to allow some bracket like that to be mounted outside a 12th story window - especially if he knows what you intend to do ....

only way would be to devise another mounting method that could be disguised or hidden or the ultimate purpose skillfully lied about - some possibility if you had a patio and could utilize yours and the patio above ....

 

no building owner is going to allow some bracket like that to be mounted outside a 12th story window - especially if he knows what you intend to do ....

In Russia, this is not a problem. This fastener practically does not differ in anything (except for size) from the fasteners of an external air conditioner, and this is allowed.
This apartment belongs to me, so I don't have to ask for additional permissions.

 

A high-rise a building where the upper most occupiable surface is above 75'-0". As soon as that threshhold is crossed one of the elevators is required to continue operating during a fire emergency. There also has to be at least two means of egress to an area of refuge or exit. So that's at least 3 paths to safety.

 

Highrise buildings in the U.S. are the safest buildings as far as fires . stairways have smoke control systems ,although sheltering in place is generally the way to go .
fwiw I was part of my FD highrise team ,the only people we had to “ rescue “ were the ones who left their apartment.

 

OK, but wasn't there a fire just about a week ago
in a high rise building where a lot of people died?
New York, I think...

 

I wonder if the eye bolt would affect window washing and such (snag lines, cause an obstruction, etc).

 

I don’t see why you can’t just mount it inside the apartment.

 

If I was forced to live in a high rise I’d keep repelling gear in my apartment as an option for self rescue! The rescue option pictured leaves me with several questions/concern, but then I was (in another life) trained to do mountain rescue and we did a belt and suspenders approach to everything!

SD

 

you would need like 250' of 1/2" rope so you don't come up empty handed at say... floor number 3
Ker plunk
Tie it off to your sofa, put it crossways in front of the window and use that as an anchor point
and pray the floors below you do not have fire coming out of a window that will burn through your line.

 

Used to do some rappelling and ascending ..yikes 40 some yrs back.
Would rather use tried and true equipment ...I imagine REI coop still sells it.

 

I heard about a man who jumped off the roof of a 20 story building.

ever time he passed a window he said "So far so good"

 

Your screwed!!! The fire department can only reach the 7th floor with a ladder truck. Unless you learn to fly, there’s nothing I know about for surviving a fire past the 7th floor.

 

Stairwells in dual cores, big red trucks with 700 PSI pumps, standpipes and sprinklers, fire doors and firewalls. Pretty rare for high rise fires to have more facilities than they would on the third floor.

Though if I lived in a high rise I’d have a bailout kit.I’d feel comfortable up to the 25th floor with a rack- after that, maybe look for a better way to dissipate heat- maybe a Munter hitch on a big shackle. A 150 lb woman could double those distances.

 

@Trackball
as a former rock climber, I see a real problem (no pun here) with the decent regulator/brake assembly. Not real happy with the bos'un chair approach, but can see some pluses for use in an emergency....

The attachment point of any system should employ a locking carabiner.

Nearly as good (or better IMO) would be the 'correct' amount of 11mm kernmantle nylon rope (or 9mm Spectra rope) in a throw bag , a climbing harness - this to secure your ass to the rope and a 'figure 8' descender device - almost universally used by fire brigades here in the US.

Thus, attach the locking karibiner to your eyebolt, climb into harness, attach descender device and bail out.

Videos for each

The Best Aluminum Locking Carabiners

Aluminum locking carabiners are strong and secure enough for almost all purposes, from climbing to hanging hammocks.

www.rollingstone.com

A screw karabiner avoids issues with ice/snow or twisting unlocking the system. These were all I ever owned.

climbing harness - these will hold you even if you should tip 'upside down'

Figure 8 descender

Using a throw bag for rope

much of what you wish to do is a daily task for tree care specialists and in common use for mountaineering/ The setup I have listed does require some training/ and recurring practice - as would any self-rescue system.

Using just this equipment I have listed, I have repelled down a 140 ft cliff face, upside down, to demonstrate just how well a harness works in holding a person in any orientation. Given this will most likely be used in the dark, a strong flashlight to stay in the equipment bag is a must.

If small children are involved (<20kg) - they may be strapped to an adult. Here, practice is mandatory.

Good luck, and good that you are giving this serious thought.













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Whats the purpose of this device for,fire?
Is it a straight line down to the ground without other wall openings that could be tunneling flames out.
What's the decent speed of it?

 

Parachute/ base jumping.

 

I lived in a dorm that was 12 stories high. The town only a ladder truck that reached 6 stories. If I was in a burning building and had one of these I would use it. So in this case you would need over 24 stories of rope. Not even sure they make rope that long.

 

24 stores is estimated as 288’ for firefighting purposes. Ropes that long are easy, though 200’ is far more common.. I have 2 600’ double braided ropes ( not NFPA rated)- is a standard size.

Problem is the heat build up. I repelled straight down a 90’ tower and I think the figure 8 was hotter than was safe. I’ve gone off a 250’ with a rack‘ and it was actually cooler, but I went slow. The energy released is your weight times the height- there is no way to reduce that- at least if you intend to walk away.

I’ve taken 100 lb microwave dishes off a 300’ tower, and a 600 lb rack off a 90’ tower using a clevis ( lots more mass). Doesn’t meet anyone’s standard for supporting a human being on rope , though we support loads OVER humans and lift humans that way. But a big clevis will assorb more heat than a rack or figure 8.

 

I don't like heights. I prefer living closer to the ground.