I picked up a Generac IQ3500 a while back. It's really quiet. It's 120v, no 220v though. Runs on gas. I've been pleased with it so far. Made in Wisconsin. It shouldn't have any trouble running a sump pump. There's higher output generators out there but low noise was my priority. I've only got two fridges to run as well.

 

When would you project needing to use it? Just a few days a year if the power goes out in a snowstorm, or as primary power for months or years?

 

Northern Illinois can get cold.
14 years with this CO-OP and the electric has been out maybe 4 or 5 times with a max of several hours.
This gives me a false sense of security so based on history I don't need one.
SHTF and I'm SOL ..my crystal ball is fuzzy.
It would be nice to have lots of power but we can't count on a NA gas even in worst case scenarios even though it has always been dead reliable.
So NA gas models are out.
Something quiet , easy on what limited gas I may store yet enough to get by on is what I'm after.
Power for well pump is crucial and may require 220V .
Dam cataracts can't read fine print on the well tank.

 

If you can do without the furnace, you should be able to do the rest on 3500-4000 watts pretty easy. diesels are more fuel-efficient, but more expensive and probably noisier unless you get a slow-turn unit, which gets even more expensive. If I were you I'd be looking at a 4000-5000 peak watt, inverter, dual fuel(gas/propane) unit. There are TONS such units out there. I really can't recommend one in particular, but I would look for a reputable brand with a long track record if possible.

 

An Electric water heater alone is 9k watts, what you just listed you'd need a 20kw generator and I suspect that the spike of those refrigerators starting maybe to much for that...

 

Honda. Expensive but get what you pay for.

 

Most well domestic pumps are 240v 20-40 amp
You will need fairly hefty genset, maybe 4500-6000 watt min.
depending on the size/depth of your pump.
Maybe smaller if your well is shallow, you get by with less.

We have a 10,000 watt 240v for our well pumps and other stuff.
Talk to your local well drill or pump service and they will be able
to help you better.
It is the initial surge the well pump throws, on start up that will
power out Harbor Freight type generators.

There are some more knowledgable on here than me.
Hopefully they will chime in

 

I have a Honda EU2200i. I’ve been very pleased with it. No problems to speak of. Any of the Honda generators are quality. As 44Guy said above, “Expensive, but you get what you pay for”. I couldn’t agree more.

 

That won’t power a 240v well pump.

 

I have found a solution to the 25amp 110V generators. For 220. I have a well the pump is 220V 10amps I found a 2-3 KVA 440/220 In 220/110 out Transformer. I wired the transformer 110 In and out on the original in was 220. Since the 2KVA is 20amps really 18amps I went with the 3.5 KVA transformer and that will do 30amps more than enough to power the well and some left over power.

Transformer never got hot. Just use large enough wire from the Generator and from the transformer never an issue.

That way I can use a smaller Generator that will use less gas and is quieter than the 8500 running amps of my larger Generator

 

We have a gas/propane generator with a place to tie onto the propane tank without disconnecting the feed to the house. If you already run on propane it might be worth thinking about

 

5,000 watts minimum. 7,500 or 10,000 is better. You will want to buy several 5 gallon VP Racing fuel jugs.

 

I bought a smaller black Maxx generator and it has been amazing. Pretty fuel efficient and actually pretty quiet considering it’s a standard generator.
I believe mine is 3500/4200 watts

multiple hook up options and has the RV style plug in as well. Could use an adapter though.

sams club sells some for a decent price when they have them. Harbor freight is pretty decent. If you need it quick those are good options. Get it now and maybe, just maybe, you can upgrade later on.

 

I bought a Blackmax 3550-4550 about 6 or 8 years ago, It has the Honda engine on it . I have only had to replace the carburetor but now I use non ethanol gas and add Pri G to keep it good. Cranks on first pull , I am very happy with mine.

 

Honda makes good ones

 

Ill get my son to check the breakers on the well pump. 225' depth so I'm sure its 220V probably furnace as well.
Yeah I'll have to investigate startup amps is there a rule of thumb on that?
Well aware of that (startup amps) and have measured it on 120V with table saw and breaker tripping wood planer(20amp).
Appointment for cataract consultation in a month , hate not seeing well but more important health issues trumped it.
Doing pretty well now all things considered.

 

Get the higher dollar lens replacement.my wife did and can't believe how great her sight is virtually overnight. I'm next. For sure find out what your starting amps are on your well. Not enough amps causes all sorts of issues. i also have a 12 volt pump which is supposed to be good to 200 ft but luckily my well is 100 ft.

 

Generally a 5kw model will power most well pumps through startup surge and have plenty of power for other loads as well.

Most of us can’t afford a diesel unit so pick a name brand model. Anything g with a Honda engine will usually be good but mine is a Honeywell that is kinda quiet and has electric start, a bonus that you will appreciate because the recoil start on a 5kw unit takes some muscle. Can get something for under $1000

 

4 x running current is typical surge

 

I have a WEN 11,000 watt Jenny that will run most of my home including the fridge and A/C and some lights along with the computers. Had the wiring done by a Licensed Electrician friend and all is good to go. ALWAYS remember to take your Power Off grid Before feeding your home as you don`t wan`t to hurt any Power workers!!!!. Very Important!!!!!. This unit runs great and is pretty good on both Gas and Propane. However,Gas gives you the most power. Check WEN out,works for me.

 

Electric start it is. I can do a lot but probably pull starting might put me under the knife again.
Was told no twisting and easy on the abs...and just got told this week your not listening.
Yup had some education on electric and experience ...safety ect. Would look at transfer switch ..no back feeding.
Have natural gas but don't want to go to that extent.
Portability could be an asset thrifty on gasoline another.

Medicare with plan G . Probably some lens from China . I'll ask about the high dollar lens and pay cash if it's not crazy high.

 

When buying a generator of any size it is best to calculate the load it must carry: not just running, but start up. Freezers and fridges do not take much when running, but the start up power required is what is important. I have a 5kw, which could run my house...except for the electric furnace and electric hot water heater. Consultation with a professional, highly recommended.

 

For the most part I am electric illiterate... The one thing I do know is to "divide and conquer" This meaning that with a portable generator, run one thing at a time... Run a freezer, or fridge to top off as needed, and limit door openings... Isolate a gas furnace from grid power and run until house is warm then minimize door openings.. You get the idea..

Professional evaluation of your needs is a good idea as it seems too many people mention "generator" and what is actually in there mind is a seamless, whole house application.. That is doable, but costly it seems... Then they are disappointed when there portable doesn't handle that..

My 5 cents of knowledge, experience, and opinion..

 

For the most part I am electric illiterate... The one thing I do know is to "divide and conquer" This meaning that with a portable generator, run one thing at a time... Run a freezer, or fridge to top off as needed, and limit door openings... Isolate a gas furnace from grid power and run until house is warm then minimize door openings.. You get the idea..

Thats me. I'm a dummy when it comes to electrical stuff. I can wire just fine and install electric appliance stuff but the loads, amps and watts confuse me. You can look up charts for it on google and get your answers. All I would want a generator for was to run the freezer for a while and then run the refrigerator to keep everything cool and frozen.

But even that wasn't a big problem last winter during the Great Texas Black Out. I just put all the food in ice chest and laundry baskets on the back porch. It was colder outside the the refrigerator is. The frozen stuff never thawed out. No food was lost. I have no animals so the food was never bothered.

I used a Coleman camp stove sitting on top of the glass cook top to cook with and provide heat with both burners burning. I have a little small propane stove sort of like a Dearborn heater I put in the living room that runs on propane and that provided enough heat. I opened the south side curtains during the day to let in sunlight and what heat I got from that and for a week we made out fine. You could heat water for a simple wash off to feel a little cleaner. But no one was sweating anyway. We drew up a lot of water and filled the garden tub full to use to flush toilets.

I have a couple of portable battery lights and many candles so a little light wasn't a problem. Plus battery powered radios for information. And I don't care if the TV ever works again. Nothing but a time waster.

All in all it was sort of a fun experiment. I found I could get by just fine being off grid for a week.

 

Looks like the Generac's are aware of surge wattage and give a max of that which is very useful.
Think I'll borrow an amp clamp meter from a friend and check for sure what peak amps are on the well.
Furnace amp draw would be next and if it can handle both firing at the same time with some leeway.
Shipping doesn't factor in their price when I buy close to where they're made, I'm about 70 miles away.
Waukesha is a western suburb of Milwaukee.
The GP6500 has a 220 outlet no electric start but must have great compression release start from what I saw on you tube.

 

A 5500 watt will start most pumps my well guy tests his pumps with one .
When you go larger you start spending a lot on fuel .
I like Honda’s $ if I have to have power it’s has to be a Honda

 

Once the OP needs 240v and dosnt want a Gas hog I would keep an eye out for a mep802. Diesel, water cooled, 1800rpm and 5kw. kiss bad gas goodbye.

 

Don't want a Gas Hog...just enough to do the job.
Have a well pump and without checking I'm guessing 220V
Freezer which uses hardly nothing
A couple of refrigerators
Stupid gas stove needs 110v to even work
Main forced air furnace need clean electric so I don't fry the board may be used sporadicaly.
Gas fireplace has a piezo start and almost enough to keep the house warm in the dead of winter (thank God)
but the small blower 110V would be appreciated.
Forget the electric waterheater
I see generac has a small diesel ...vs gas ??

I have a 3200 W PROPANE genny that is the best that I have ever had. It says Sportsman on it I have had it long enough that I don't remember who made it or how much it cost, but it was about the same price as gas gennys at that time.

Propane is the key. Gas gennys always have gas problems, old gas in the tank, crud in the carb, rusty tank etc. Propane avoids all that. No matter how long it has set she always starts on the second, sometimes third pull, it has to get the hose charged with the propane. Propane NEVER goes bad in storage. A 20# bottle lasts a long time if you are moving it around using it here and there. If you are using it mostly in one spot a 100# bottle would last a really long time. If you are just going to run it in a fixed location a 500 gal tank pernamently hooked to the tank and wiring would be the cats meow.

 

Not Happening unless you use my method. Like I mention earlier in the thread. According to the amount of amperage you need. 1KVA Transformer is about 8.5 amps in real use 2KVA Transformer will be about 18 amps. I picked up a 3.5KVA Transformer. It will be about 30AMPS enough to power anything I have. It's specs where 440/220-220/110 V.
I reversed wired it with #8 Wire could go to #6. Anyway I put the 20 amp side of the Generator on the Transformer on the wired for 110/120V and I get 220V out on the 440/220 side. With the #8 I know it can handle 40amps. I could go with #10 30amps but since I go with a larger wire it will put less stress on the load. And as long as I am not pushing the limit of the output of the generator I know this will work. I have found many stranded wire better that solid wire for this type of work

As my job I have to routinely add a buck booster transformer to bring up the voltage. Even though MFG are starting to wire more for 208V some of the delicate components work better and more efficient at 220V

I have been testing and will do more testing of putting in a backup battery system same as I use for my electronics to see how long I can get out of one when the power is out
Might be better to buy a 2000 Amp Hour Battery 12V and adding in a large enough inverter to the system to insure a longer run time on the Well and other outlets not requiring massive amperage like an oven.[/QUOTE]

 

Good points to mull over and propane is clean and much safer to store doesn't go bad ..threw out diesel as an option (2 diesel cars and diesel stores better than gas) oven is natural gas but needs 120V for the gas valves(who's bright idea was this , used to not need it).
Ha..actually have a couple of deep cycle massive 12V batteries sittting around from son's car audio days. Sure glad he got over that phase with his hearing intact and my saw blades and router bits are happier not cutting MDF for subwoofer boxes.

 

If you are powering a well the big thing you have to worry about is the inrush current, it can be considerably higher than the normal running current. It only lasts milliseconds but it can trip some generators out. I have a 240 foot well running a 20 Amp 240v pump my Honda 5k will run it but the last unit I had would trip out. That is one of the ratings you need to consider.