WD is not really good for rust prevention. its purpose was for water displacement. CLP works a whole lot better and a little goes a long way. You can make it out of tranny fluid and whatever other ingredients go in there but CLP is proven and you only need a thin coat.

 

Don't use WD-40 on your guns. It has a penetrating factor that will make your ammunition not work. This video is hands down the best advice I can give.

 

I have a new invention to protect guns in storage from moisture, Its called cosmoline. I heat it up and apply an ultra thin layer to all external parts, leaving the bore bare. If that gun is never fired, I would dip a nylon brush in hot cosmoline and coat the bore as well.

I bought mine from Brownells. Since it is no longer made, they now offer this product, and suggest it works just as well.

BROWNELLS RUST VETO®

Check out BROWNELLS RUST VETO® available Online at Brownells Today and many more Gun Oils & Lubricants products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.

www.brownells.com

Btw, I bought a lot of wood/ blued steel gun when I lived in the desert. Now that I live in the Ozarks, I buy and hunt/carry only stainless guns.

 

We have used RIG (rust inhibiting grease) and have for the last 60 some years. Put a light coat on let it set for a while and wipe with a rag. We keep a rag impregnated with rig and do a quick rub down if the gun is touched or handled.

DO NOT BUY the huge containers as one we have was purchased in 1959 and still about 1/4 full.

 

Hot and humid?? LOL!
I’m a lifelong Floridian, been owning guns for almost 65 years now.
I use CLP, mainly because it’s made in Florida and I like to support “local” businesses.

Years ago before we had a myriad of gun products, plain old 3 In 1 oil got the job done just fine. And I still use it today.

I agree with the others about WD-40.
That stuff never comes near my firearms.

 

I had problems with my carbon steel knife blades.

I moved to tw2500 oil to coat them and prevent rust.

I tried everything. Even waxing.
If as claimed the tw oil does have the original that slick 50 had it should be awesome stuff.

I’ll be finding out by end of the summer.

 

I use CLP for those that items that see more frequent use. However do some research on CLP for use on your 'safe queens'. Long term storage, the CLP has a tendency to gum up the works according to what I have gleaned from the commentary (leaving just the Teflon, etc.) . So for those that get less frequent use I use Rem Oil or Hoppes for those devices. Also be aware on WD-40 is that it will 'evaporate' over time so whatever you were trying to protect will see that 'protection' diminish over time. This is in addition to the issues cited above that suggest it is not the appropriate lube for your needs.

 

Ive been using Eezox for a couple of decades now. Haven't found anything better, but it seems to work so well, I really haven't bothered trying.

The last couple of "rust" tests I saw, it was usually in the top three.

I believe one version of WD-40 was also pretty highly rated, but it wasnt the run of the mill stuff, but one of their specialty versions.

Its normally hot and very humid here in the summers, and I just wipe things like guns, tools, etc, down with a rag that has been sprayed with Eezox. Might do that twice a year for stuff in the basement where we have a dehumidifier running 24/7 and stuff still tends to rust. Anything down there treated with the Eezox, so far, hasn't.


As far as standard WD-40, back when it was either just 3 in 1 oil, or something similar, and prior to some of the better stuff that's available to us now, we used WD-40 for decades and never had the gumming or other issues the internet always tells you will happen. If you use it "properly", it does OK. Its great for blasting moisture out of places, and once the excess is shook out and removed, and the remaining metal wiped down leaving only a very light coat, it wont gum up.

Its when you spray it everywhere and leave it sit, and thats all you do, yea, it, and pretty much anything else you use like that, will be giving you trouble.

 

Maybe also consider some desiccant bags in your safe to control humidity. Get the ones that you can "recharge" when they turn pink by placing in low heat oven for the prescribed time and they turn white again.

 

WD-40 stands for water displacement, 40th attempt. I always wondered what went wrong with the other 39 attempts.

It’s been said, by I can’t recall whom, that guns have two enemies. They are politicians and rust.

I’ve been using Hoppes products to protect from rust for probably 50 years. I’ve never had a problem. Besides, as I’ve mentioned on her before, the smell of Hoppes takes me back in time. It reminds me of duck hunting, with my now deceased father. Good times! I miss my dad.

 

WD-40 stands for water displacement, 40th attempt. I always wondered what went wrong with the other 39 attempts.

I've wondered the same about Preparation A through G..........

 

As long as we're talking, what does everythink about gun socks?
Amazon.com: Silicone Treated Gun Socks for Rifles, Extra Wide - Fit Scopes, Pistol Grips & Tactical Accessories, 47” x 6” (Coyote Brown 4-Pack) : Sports & Outdoors

 

Here's how we cleaned guns in the Army. It works for anything without electronics. Field strip, hose everything off with brake cleaner, get the sink water running scalding hot, rinse. Any caked on residue scrape off with a dental pick, screwdriver, pipe cleaner, whatever. Repeat once. Dry everything off. Rinse with WD40. Run a couple oiled patches down the bore. Wipe everything with clean rag.

It's hell on the finish, but guarantied to pass a white glove inspection.

Now that WD40 is priced like gold, I hardly use it anymore.

Oh, and with 1911's, after inspection dunk them in a bucket of used motor oil, drip dry, then lightly wipe. If oil isn't dripping off your elbow and covering your glasses with spray the weapon is too dry.

 

Lucas Penetrating Oil instead of WD40!
Less expensive. More effective. For long term storage over 1 year use 50-50 mix to thin Cosmolene to syrup consistency and apply with brush. Insert into gun sock to protect from dust.

 

The trouble with brake cleaner is that it removes the oil that has soaked into the microscopic pores in the steel.
If you just have to use something like that, try carb and choke cleaner instead. It’s not as bad.

 

Well yes. I would never do that to my guns. LOL

 

The best rust protection hands down is called corrosion block. It works and blows any alternative out of the water!

 

CLP and a Silicone gun sock.

 

This is what I do, but another brand of protective oil. I have 2 shotguns that stay in a locker almost all the time.

 

I've got a big ole flannel rag that I keep somewhat lubed up with Rem Oil

I wipe my guns down generally twice per year. Regardless of the oil you use, wipe them down often.

Moisture permeates oil and will still go straight to the steel. Wiping the gun down gets fresh penetrant back into the pores of the metal and removes any moisture build up.

I live 20 miles from the Gulf and 1.5 miles from a large lake and I'm surrounded by creeks and bayous so yeah, humidity is a big issue!

If you need heavy duty protection, they make this stuff called Corrosion X, I use this for all my tools in the garage. It's also supposed to be a quality lubricant too.

 

For those that are advocating CLP for long term, read the information from one of the manufacturers: What is the intended use for CLP? – G96 Products Inc.

WHAT IS THE INTENDED USE FOR CLP?
by userJune 21, 2022
AWhat is the intended use for CLP?
Category: General FAQs
Intended use: CLP covered by this specification is a highly penetrating, mobile liquid and is intended for field application to satisfy the complete need of cleaning, lubricating, and short term preservation of military weapons. CLP facilitates the effective removal of firing residues, gums and other contaminants from weapon components while providing lubrication and short term preservation for reliable weapons operation. Short term preservation is defined as Preservation period of time not to exceed 30 days. Please note that although MIL-PRF-63460E states that CLP is approved for short term preservation, G96’s Synthetic CLP Gun Oil is rated for use longer than 30 days. Although it is difficult to say how long due to variable environmental possibilities, we recommend that not only the firearm be stored in a locked and safe position, but that it be stored in a cool area with low humidity. Ventilation requirements: Due to the solvent systems often employed in CLP type formulations, field users should avoid using CLP in conditions of limited ventilation, that is, closed rooms, sealed vehicles, etc. Please note that although MIL-PRF-63460E states the above ventilation requirements, G96’s Synthetic CLP Gun oil contains no solvents. Therefore, normal ambient ventilation is satisfactory. Preservative application limitation: Caution should be exercised when using CLP where ventilation of the treated surface, prior to sealing, is not practicable. CLP should not be used for preservation for long-term storage without consulting the qualifying activity. Please note that although MIL-PRF-63460E states that CLP is approved for short term preservation, G96’s Synthetic CLP Gun Oil is rated for use longer than 30 days. Although it is difficult to say how long due to unlimited storage possibilities, we recommend that not only the firearm be stored in a locked and safe position, but that it be stored in an area where it is cool and low humidity.

Many of you are I am sure familiar with the Breakfree version of CLP . They also don't recommend the generic CLP for long term storage. Instead they have a different product for long term storage, called Break-Free Collector, I however have no idea how good it is. Break Free® - High Performance Gun Cleaning Oil | Safariland. FYI, Safariland is the manufacturer of Break-free CLP as best as I can determine, but it is all governed by the milspec requirements.

 

Break Free Collector is the long term storage formula, but museums who keep arms and armor in display cases where items are not handled use Renaissance wax.

For my own purposes I use Lucas Penetrating Oil to thin Cosmolene to a syrup consistency and apply with a paint brush before encasing in a gun sock. Has worked for me for over 50 years. RIG also good if the piece is well cleaned and oiled with Lucas or USP food grade mineral oil well before application of RIG or thinned Cosmolene.

 

I`ve always used Remington Oil after cleaning with Hoppe`s. A rag lightly soaked with the oil has Always done the trick.. No rust or any other problems. Works!.

 

RIG and Ballistol

 

ezzox this works.

 

I didn't mean to start a debate but while we are at it I knew an old timer out west who built guns and had forgotten more about them than most of us will ever know about the subject. He told me, don't use Hoppe's because it eats metal and will harm guns if not removed. He advocated Diesel oil mixed with a little motor oil for keepwing away rust. I use his method on my black powder guns and on my metal surfaces in the shop. I still have faith in WD 40 because when used on gun exteriors it has stopped rust. I do not use it on the interior becaause it can gum things up.

 

Hoppe’s #9 should strictly be limited to bore cleaner.
Specifically, any surplus rifle that uses military surplus ammo - corrosively primed or not.
And it will indeed ruin nickel finishes.
Any surface that I have gotten it on is parkerized, and it doesn’t seem to hurt that.

 

RIG for long term. Barricade, otherwise. Never had a rust problem.

 

I just checked an unbiased survery but I can't bring up the site to post. Tops of all of them was WD 40 Specialiasts and Frog Lube. They tested a series of metal plates over a time period.