First, I did not know where to post this! I am looking for some type of optic that would allow me to see long-distance. I am a fisherman and I like to view boats and other fishermen to see if they are catching fish or just fishing. I have a pair of 7 x 50 binoculars which are of great quality and are good for such. But I would like something stronger. Been trying to research online, I see things like Higher-power binoculars downside of that is that once you start getting into greater than 10 x 50 they get real big and heavy. I see monoculars that would be a good option and then spotting scopes but when you get into strong power my experience is you need to tripod mount them. Or they are impossible to use and kill my eyes.If anyone has any good ideas, love to hear them.
Long distance viewing?
surfcast
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You may have to cross some of those "wants" off your list of requirements.
Closest thing that meets most of those wants is a good-quality image-stabilized binocular. It will be heavy, and in the thousand dollar range.
If those prices are too high, expect to use a scope with a tripod.
Closest thing that meets most of those wants is a good-quality image-stabilized binocular. It will be heavy, and in the thousand dollar range.
If those prices are too high, expect to use a scope with a tripod.
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+ trees, buildings....
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Image stabilized means what exactly, no need for a tripod?
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More or less dampens out the "shakes" when you're holding the binoculars.
Obviously there are limits to what it can do.
Best thing to do would be to try some.
Does Image Stabilization Work? | Best Binocular Reviews
So you have seen a shiny new pair of image stabilization binoculars on the web that you like, but without trying them out first you wonder does image stabilisation really work? Obviously this is one of the disadvantages of buying a product on the web (there are also many advantages). Just...
www.bestbinocularsreviews.com
According to the NIH, the average iris varies from 2-8 mm in diameter depending on light. (It can go as far as 13mm but that’s not a daily thing.)
A scope or binocular has two numbers, as you know, the power, and the lens diameter. 7X50 being what you have.
Bob Bell said if you divide the objective lens diameter by the power (50/7) you get the optics exit pupil diameter. 7+- on the 7X50’s. So with that, your binocular is great for low light conditions.
An optic with a smaller exit pupil, as small as 2mm, would, conceivably, work in bright light. So a 10X20 would be light and would work in bright light.
I like my 8X40’s because they’re reasonably bright at dusk or dawn, but not as heavy as the 7X50’s.
And if you get zoomie binoculars, watch the exit pupil size go down as you zoom in.
Hopefully this will help you with your search.
One other thing… according to Bell, the closer an object is, the brighter it will appear. He went on the say that the more an object is magnified, the closer it appears, and the brighter it will appear.
All I know is what I read, I’m not of a scientific mind. I’m sure a professor of physics could point you toward an answer.
A scope or binocular has two numbers, as you know, the power, and the lens diameter. 7X50 being what you have.
Bob Bell said if you divide the objective lens diameter by the power (50/7) you get the optics exit pupil diameter. 7+- on the 7X50’s. So with that, your binocular is great for low light conditions.
An optic with a smaller exit pupil, as small as 2mm, would, conceivably, work in bright light. So a 10X20 would be light and would work in bright light.
I like my 8X40’s because they’re reasonably bright at dusk or dawn, but not as heavy as the 7X50’s.
And if you get zoomie binoculars, watch the exit pupil size go down as you zoom in.
Hopefully this will help you with your search.
One other thing… according to Bell, the closer an object is, the brighter it will appear. He went on the say that the more an object is magnified, the closer it appears, and the brighter it will appear.
All I know is what I read, I’m not of a scientific mind. I’m sure a professor of physics could point you toward an answer.
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Canon 18x50 IS All Weather Image Stabilized Binoculars 82966302152 | eBay
You think this could work in the absence of a tripod?
You think this could work in the absence of a tripod?
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For local viewing inside of a mile or so I love my Steiner Navigator 7 X 30's bino's and for long distance viewing I use a Leupold Golden Ring 12 to 40 power spotting scope for anything from a mile out to 10 - 20 miles +/-. The Golden Ring is the same as the Mk 4 Spotter the US Military Snipers use but without the Ret, didn't want the Ret in the GR coz I find them annoying when glassing, Plus I already have spotters and bino's with Rets in them.
If I want something discrete I use my Bushnell Arc 1 Mile LRF coz I can use it for general viewing or I can Range It which comes in handy for drawing maps or finding it on a map etc, Plus it fits in my M65 or N-3B Parka pockets.
If I want something discrete I use my Bushnell Arc 1 Mile LRF coz I can use it for general viewing or I can Range It which comes in handy for drawing maps or finding it on a map etc, Plus it fits in my M65 or N-3B Parka pockets.
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Drone?
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Great I like target practice 😆🤣🤣🤣
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Depends. Do you shake like Barney Fife at a bank robbery? Then probably not.
I still say the best idea is to find a sporting goods store that has some in stock, and try for yourself. If that's not possible, buy from someone who offers a 30-day return period.
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Not legal where I am, unfortunately. Very serious fine if caught.
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How come. We have a few basic rules.
DIY/private/toy drone must be visual line of sight to drone and not over private property.
Commercial or longer distance drone you need a permit with a qualification coarse.
Does the sea belong to the state or private property. Would be interesting to know why illegal?
Other option is a mounted zoom camera with a gyro stabilizer!
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We have areas where we can fly model planes and drones. But not outside those areas, and that drone has to be registered with the FAA. New York has terrible rules on everything!
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I agree with @DKR that once you get to a certain magnification you need optical stability. On aircraft this is very expensive, especially if the optic is being oversampled and the image is then being tracked and manipulated for stability. There are some solutions out there, but I would prepare to pay for them. If you're trying to watch someone at 1km just to see if they are actively pulling lines, I would imagine the cost would be in the $5,000 to $7,000. With these sort of optics, you tend to get what you pay for.
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Just a thought, the company that seems to be on the forefront of reliable image stabilization is Canon. I know they had a unit which was designed for helos, and once you "acquired target", it would track fairly good up to a mile. Fog and occasional interruptions will force a reset of target. Even the crap the TV stations and police use for car chases isn't 100% dependable.
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