If we can get a pretty good list going, I will compile them and send it back out to you all for reference and printing.

 

The average entry door height in a residential home here in the "States" is 6'-8".

I like your thread. :thumb:

 

I can help with what I use.
Black Tail, young15" Older buck 17"
Antelope 16"
Mule Deer 17" for young 19" for mature.
Caribou 20"
Elk Spike 24-25" Wall hanger 30"
Hope this helps, this is after 34 years of checking every animal with over 200 big game measurements. These animals were from Alaska one down to California to New Mexico up to Montana.

 

Licence plate. 6" x 12"

Standard propane tank. 20# 12" x 14" (body) or 18" (body plus handle)

 

The only problem I see is that the further you are from the target- where you really need to know- the harder it is to know exactly what the size you are ranging from. Example from above post- Elk, 24" to 30". Now it is no contest to know the difference between a spike and a trophy Elk. The problem is the 20% spread in size. At 100 yards it makes little difference. At 500 yards in heavyish cover with a normal scope making it hard to determine the size of that elk, being +/- 10% off makes a very big difference. That would mean your target is anywhere from 450 to 550 yards.

Lets take a 7MM magnum with a .500 B.C. bullet sighted in at 200 yards and a velocity of 3,000 FPS. That's about a 20 inch difference in trajectory. Mil-dots were a good solution for it's time but between uncertainty of size and complexity of the math, it could easily lead to a poor shot. Not a big deal in combat but certainly an ethics problem in hunting. To my mind that's where the various types of rangefinders come into play. Battery dies you man-up and don't even contemplate the shot at least in normal times when you aren't starving. If we're talking about staving off some threat to the homestead, far better would be a range card established prior to need. Then you could range off such things as license plates tacked onto trees.

 

All true, but Preppers prepare. That is the basis of the movement. I'm not worried about shooting an elk or fending off the homestead but I do think that having a comprehensive list may come in handy someday (much like a 5 gal bucket of wheat)

 

Avg shoulder width - 18

 

Standard stop sign 30" x 30"
Sheet of plywood. 48" x 96"
5 gal bucket. 12" x 14"
1gal milk jug 5 1/2" x 9 1/2" or 7" x 9 1/2" if corner to corner
Pop/ beer can. 4 3/4" x 2 3/4"

 

Ok I looking. Somewhere on one of the other sites I visit, there is a listing covering things from weapon sizes to door frames. When I find it, i'll post it.

 

Mill dot scope? I don't need no stinkin' mill dot scope.

"5" gallon buckets vary considerably in size. Some hold 4 and some hold 51/2.
I've trimmed 4x8 sheets of plywood many times.
How do you determine the attitude of a milk jug especially at distance?
16 oz. cans. Forsters.

Mil-dot worked for what it was. I'd rather use my front sight as a rangefinder. On game, just as accurate estimation as a Mil-dot, as the game varies in presentation and size. And no math. For defense, I'll stick with the range card. I don't envisage myself engaging human targets at extended range anyway. Battle zero is fine in that application.

 

cool story

 

Or just memorize a few common items. Keep it simple, stupid.

 

Ok couldnt find the web site but did the sheets I had printed off several more to follow.


TRAFFIC / STEET SIGNS HEIGHT WIDTH
STOP SIGN (STANDARD) 30" 30"
STOP SIGN (SMALL) 24" 24"
DO NOT ENTER 30" 30"
WRONG WAY (STANDARD) 24" 36"
WRONG WAY ( SMALL) 18" 30"
ONEWAY (ARROW) 12" 36"
ONE WAY ( RECTANGULAR) 30" 24"
YIELD SIGN (STANDARD) 36" 36"
YIELD SIGN (SMALL) 30" 30"
SPEED LIMIT ( STANDARD) 30" 24"
SPEED LIMIT (SMALL) 24" 18"
REDUCE SPEED (STANDARD) 30" 24"
REDUCE SPEED (SMALL) 24" 18"
NO RIGHT/NO LEFT TURN 24" 24"
RIGHT LANE/LEFT LANE MUST TURN 30" 30"

 

Traffic/street signs height width
no uturns 24" 24'
do not pass (standard) 36" 24"
do not pass (small) 24" 18"
pass with care (standard) 36" 24"
pass with care ( small) 24" 18"
chevron, right / left (standard) 24" 18"
chevron, right / left ( small) 18" 12"
route # sign 24" 9"
rail road crossing (x) 9" 48"
rail road crossing (circle) 30" 30"
yellow warning signs 30" 30"
orange road work sign 36" 36"
street name signs 6" varies

 

Miscellaneous / urban objects height width
blue usps mail box 37" 20"
license plate 6" 12"
standard cinder block 8" 16"
standard residential brick 2.5" 9.5"
55 gallon drum 35" 23"
average doorway (modern home) 84" 36"
average doorway ( older home) 84" 30"

 

WEAPONS OAL OTHER
AKM(AK-47) 34.3
AKMS 34.4 (EXTENDED) 25.4 (FOLDED)
AK-74 37.1
AKS-74 (FOLDING STOCK) 37.1(EXTENDED) 27.2 (FOLDED)
RPK/RPKS 40.9 32.3 (FOLDED)
RPK-74 / RPKS-74 41.7 33.3 (FOLDED)
PKM 46.9
DShK 64
SVD DRUGANOV 48.2
LEE ENFIELD SMLE 44.5
HKG3 40.4

M16A2/A4 39.6
M4 33 29.8(COLLAPSED)
COLT 6920 34.6 30.4(COLLAPSED)

 

Anybody know how tall a standard fire hydrant is?

 

Not sure the height is standardized nationally, just the threads / openings where the hoses get installed.

28.63"

http://www.american-usa.com/products/valves-and-hydrants/fire-hydrants/5-1-4-american-darling-b-62-b-5/standard-dimensions

 

How in the world are you going to take "multiple measurements" on something 472 yards away? I can't envisage ANY scenario where my front sight isn't present. Were I a wealthier individual who embraced effective technology, I'd go with a laser rangefinder any day over a Mil-dot.

Perhaps you might learn to see more than one point of view. No offense intended.

 

I do value other points of view. This post was not started to get points of view. It was started so that individuals of like mind can share information. Posting your opinion regarding the value of a ranging list is derailing the thread. I am not going to waist my time posting scenarios for you. If you don't see the value, that's fine, just keep it to yourself and let others post their measurements.

 

Mil-dot is one way to get a rough guess as to range. For me, I have a tendency to pace off my AO and place landmarks while recording ranges to 'em. More tricks you got, longer you continue to decorate the surface of this spinning ball of rock....

 

Mil-dot is one way to get a rough guess as to range. For me, I have a tendency to pace off my AO and place landmarks while recording ranges to 'em. More tricks you got, longer you continue to decorate the surface of this spinning ball of rock....

Does this work reliably work? How accurate is this method? That would be great on targets of unknown sizes and distances. I can see how it could get you close but not super accurate on ranging.

 

Then why don't you point out the possibility of "common" objects varying in size? Why not talk about relative size due to angular tilt? If you really want to help rather than get post count you'd include the common errors made with Mil-Dot range estimation. To include the math.

 

That's what I like about my Russia style scopes. They have a built in range estimator. All I have to do is find somthing I know that is about about 3 feet tall and fit it between some lines.

 

Honestly the russian optics are crap. The acog operates the same way fyi.


But the problem with compiling some huge list is and mil dots. Is that not everything will be the same dimensions everywhere. Say an american lice ce plate for example vs a European one.

Also what formula are you using?
hight[inches]x25.4
/mils=distance in meters

Or hight (in meters) x10 00
/mils =distance inbmeters.

Also the mil dots are all fine and good but a reticle with half moa markings will make for easier milling because at distance you have to say is that .3/4 mill or is that more like .6 how good you are guessing and dividing the spacein your head accurately will greatly affect the ability to get a accurate reading.

 

( from an old Balisticard Systems .308 range card I just dug up)

-License plate: 6" x 12"
-Vehicle tires: 28-30" dia.
-house doors: 31"x 79"
-doorknob height: 36"
-6 foot man: 72"
-average man from crotch to top of head: 39"
-head ,ear to ear: 6.5"
-head,top to bottom: 10"
-chest thickness: 12"
-across shoulders: 20"

And another good one to know is the cinder block, which commonly measures 16" x 8".

 

& extra batteries or solar and rechargeable C123 batteries.

Why estimate distance at all. The issue at distances past 400 yards in angle. Then there is atmospheric conditions and altitude. The only way to learn to shoot accurately at distance is to SHOOT AT DISTANCE.

How do you get to Fantasy Sniper Hall....practice practice practice

But it's nice to have a slide rule ballistics calculator, ballistic charts, paper, pen, and a small calculator.

 

Ostensibly, OP was trying to make a thread helpful. Excellent thought but the size of objects by themselves will be a fail. How many of us will approach a license plate directly perpendicular? Every time? No, a successful shooter at distance will have many tricks in their bag. Too, Mil-Dot scopes were designed for one thing, the ranging of humans. Today they are used for many things besides to include hunting and tactical practice. See, the effective shooter with several ways to solve a problem. If your laser rangefinder, Mil-Dot scope, experience in range estimating and who knows what else more or less agree then you can average out, take the shot and have warm fuzzies about connecting.

 

Designed to accurately determine the distance of whatever you have the standard dimensions for.... to shoot whatever you want Altho warfare was it's intended scene.

Secondly and not trying to split hairs. But meauring peoole as ypu say is actually fairly difficult bwcause there generally moving where as ranging the rows of bricks on there house they are at or the carbhalfway in vetween generally wont be so yes a object at a funny angle can throw your measurement off I but for example a licen ce plate parked funny still won't change the hight to the op comment the more you can measure the more options you have to range things.

 

If you are truly worried about this, then you just need to remember that 36 inches is 1 mil at 1000 yards. Because if you are really worried about this then your opponent is going to be human.

And the average American or European is 2 mils high at 1000 yds.

The Asians are shorter, particularly if you are in Asia. But unless they invade from China it is Americans you are going to be worried about here.

And a buck deer is about as tall as an American from hoof to head if you are hunting with your mil dot reticle.

 

I guess the bottom line for me is the fact that I'm going to continue to build up my list. Everything of standard dimension from stop lights to cargo shipping containers. If you guys don't agree or don't want to contribute, that's fine but don't expect me to share my hard earned list

 

It's not a bad idea at all. I have at many times had to revert to my dope book and shooting journal in real world situations.

Also whatever load your using you should make a flight time table so you can compensate for movers.

Approach that standard license plate while on a 45 degree hill. You now have a 29% error, 30 degree hill and a 13% error.

This is exactly what I'm talking about. You Mil-Dot fans can't have it both ways. It is not superior to laser rangefinders. It is not superior to traditional rangefinders be they coincidence type or reticle type. It is not superior to experience.

It is yet another tool. So take your laser rangefinder which is also fooled by angle of terrain, take your experience which is fooled by canyons, take your reticle rangefinder which is fooled by a turned target and yes take your Mil-Dot. Get a consensus and take your shot.

Or use your front sight while consulting your range card.

No one's arguing about lrfs are better or not. But ranging with binocs are call ed basics for a reason and it's a very good skill to practice. Great example I was out one day in a downpour setting up a range of targets so my students could practice milling. my lrf had water on the lens and no way to dry it and even tho was trying to range something only 520m away to but the lrf kept saying 40m because of the water jacking up the beam so I used my scope to double check my placement of the target.

So sure there great but there not perfect either and batteries also can fail. And they also will stop working after a few thousand mills generally they will need recalibration. But when I comes to hunting people yes I use a Kestral weather meter a ballistic calculator a inclinometer and a lrf. But even without all that I can still dobit all with paper and pencil and math it out.
but I cam also paper and

 

Approach that standard license plate while on a 45 degree hill. You now have a 29% error, 30 degree hill and a 13% error.

This is exactly what I'm talking about. You Mil-Dot fans can't have it both ways. It is not superior to laser rangefinders. It is not superior to traditional rangefinders be they coincidence type or reticle type. It is not superior to experience.

It is yet another tool. So take your laser rangefinder which is also fooled by angle of terrain, take your experience which is fooled by canyons, take your reticle rangefinder which is fooled by a turned target and yes take your Mil-Dot. Get a consensus and take your shot.

Or use your front sight while consulting your range card.