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I got a free wood stove!

12K views 24 replies 17 participants last post by  haha49  
#1 ·
A friend of mine bought a house and decided that the wood stove had to go.
He said that if I would remove it and make a cover for the hole that I could have it. It is one of the heaviest wood stoves that I have ever seen.
It's a Long Mfg. model 1660. Long doesn't make stoves anymore but parts are still available.

Professional install will run about 2K, which is worth it to have a guarantee and recourse in an unwanted event.

I am currently having my BOL logged and have an near endless supply of red and white oak some of which has been down for two years. I have a small coal/wood stove at Ft. Skully (BOL) but have never heated an entire house with a wood stove before.

Any advice regarding the matter would be welcome, as well as opinions on gas powered log splitters.
 
#2 ·
If I were to have a wood stove it would be an option for heating. Because like you, I've never heated a home with wood before. Id make sure you have good circulation and some carbon monoxide detectors.

After that it would be trial and error. Figure out if your set up CAN heat your house evenly. If not maybe put some electric baseboard heaters in place where the stove doesn't get to well.

I'm making this up as I go.
 
#8 ·
Been heating with wood for 20 years.

One be sure to put up a wall heat sheild. use one inch spacer to leave an air cap between wall and fire board. Most MFG suggest 31 inch from walls. with right heat shield you can be 20 with no issues.

Two. slow moving fans to push and pull heat through out house. faster the fan the faster the air gets cooled. that defeats the reason.

Three. hard wood like oak, hickery, and beach produce the best heat. I like beach because you can hardly see the smoke.

True story: my grandpa was in the battle of the bulge. -40 was the temps. duren the day light he would burn beach because you can't see the smoke. Then he would fill an ammo can from a 50 cal machine gun with the hot coals. That gave him an all night heater in his fox hole.

Four: if you put a catalitic converter on your flue pipe you will burn 30% less wood with same heat output.

Five: get a flue pipe temp gage. You want you burn rate to be over 300 but under 550 on your pipe. Under makes creosote over is risk of ceiling fire.

six: I used tripple wall thru my ceilling / roof. Cost more but well worth it

Happy Burning
 
#11 ·
Sounds like I'm off to a good start. The stove will be installed in the basement in front of a large existing fireplace (gas log). The flue will come off the top, go up 3ft+/- to a 90, then go through the chimney to the outside and "T", then up the outside of the chimney.

The chimney is brick but it's 20" X 5" and there is no way to get 8" stainless crammed into 5".

The total length will be 23 to 24 feet so the draw should be good. The pipe will be 8" double wall with ceramic insulation. The stove will sit on a 1.5" firebrick hearth.

I've spoken with my homeowners insurance people and it will only be a $25 per year increase in the premium.

What about a log splitter? My son is married and moved out, so that is no longer an option. I can still swing a maul, but not enough to heat an entire house.

Oak is probably all that I will burn as I have so much of it.
 
#9 ·
Congrats.

I got one that I can have for free. I just need the time to go and take it out of a client's basement (I'm a GC). Been sitting there for me to take for the past 6 months = no time to get it tho. This would be my 3rd wood stove (I also have a $35 wood stove in the barn and a $150 one in the living room)

Free and cheap are the way to go......

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#14 ·
How well does that work? looks like a hard days work to me

I cheat. I go to our local rental store and rent one when I have all my logs ready. I get if for 30 dollars a day. I always take it on saturday morning because they are closed on Sundays. That gives me two days or 15 bucks a day. Then I drop it off on Monday on my way to work.
 
#24 ·