nice purchase man!! they are great & relaible weapons. :thumb:

if you ever want to get a nice wood kit for it, see www.parts4ak47.com , or there are really nice kits at Ironwood (I think it's www.ironwood.com , but I am not 100% positive).

nice shootin'!

 

Thanks,some wood furniture is exactly what i was thinking,this rifle is built out of so many american parts i dont think it would be a problem to switch to wood.:thumb:

 

cool beans, brother man!

if you are serious about it, check out the options available on the sites I mentioned above. then, check this site for a nice detailed (with pictures) set of instructions on how to swap the wood kit in. I found it to be VERY helpful, and spot-on correct! :

http://www.gunsnet.net/linx310/

have fun!

 

Thats great man!thanks for the help and that links going in the favorites.

 

yeah, that's where I got it from, my faves.

 

I just received my GP 1975 about 2 weeks ago. The 1st time I took it out it jammed about every 10 to 15 shots. The guys at the range were watching and said it looked like a problem with the magazine. (It was the California-mandated 10/30 magazine.) There was some play in the magazine.

Following the 1st day of shooting I tried to field strip and clean the rifle. Somewhere along the way, the lever retaining clip fell out. And then the both the trigger and hammer pins came lose from their seatings in the receiver, causing the hammer and trigger to come out of place. After several hours, I finally got both of them back in place. But both were pins were poorly seated, and dislodged several times, necessitating a whole lot of effort to get the hammer spring and pin back in place, along with the trigger spring and pin back in place (the latter being considerably easier.)

The bolt action was not smooth, and stuck several times just manually pulling the bolt back. When I took the bolt and bolt carrier-gas piston assembly out, it seemed like the bolt would stick in the bolt carrier.

It took a total of about 8 hours for me to get the rifle back together after my initial cleaning/field stripping. Much of this was because I didn't know much about rifle cleaning and breakdown. But it was also due to the lever, trigger, and hammer pins being so poorly seated that they fell out while I tried to clean it.

The 2nd time I took it to the range it again jammed frequently, and at one point the trigger stopped working because the retaining pin on the assembly fell out on the ground. Having wrestled with this rifle for several hours already, I was now familiar with how to get the pin back in. Thus, I broke it down on the range, put the pin back in, and resumed shooting.

On my next reloading, I picked the rifle up to fire, and the trigger wasn't there! I mean there was NO trigger in the rifle. It had fallen out on the ground, along with the retaining pin.

I finally did find the trigger (and the retaining pin), broke the gun down, and reassembled it on the range. I resumed firing, and made sure I laid the gun down on the opposite side of the bolt lever, to keep the pins from falling out again.

After this 2nd round at the range, I bought a new 10-round polymer magazine, which fit the rifle without any play--unlike the used metal 10/30 magazine I'd used previously.

Prior to my 3rd trip to the range, I taped over the large end of the retaining pins for the trigger and hammer to keep them from falling out.

On my 3rd trip to the range, though the bolt action still appeared rough, the 1st round jamming that I'd previously been experiencing was resolve. At least initially.

Then I had some intermittent trouble with bolt sticking when I tried to pull it back. I continued firing when I could get the bolt back.

And then on the 3rd or 4th round of a clip, a round exploded in the chamber--blowing the dust cover off and over my shoulder and blowing out the bottom of the new polymer magazine.

And the bolt carrier-gas piston assembly remained jammed into the gas chamber. I couldn't tell if there was still a live round in the chamber or not. I got the guys at the range to help me hammer the bolt back out of the chamber with the gun pointed downrange just in case a live round was still chambered.

There was no live round in the chamber, but there was part of a casing jammed inside another casing in the chamber. One of the rivets on the right side holding the front trunnion to the receiver was gone. I don't know whether it was blown out on the misfire or if it was already missing. The other right-side rivet was beginning to come loose.

I don't know for certain what happened, but I can guess. Apparently a spent cartridge did not eject, another live round was partially chambered (posterior to where it should have been), and fired through the non-ejected casing.

I stopped firing after that and took the gun home. Though I took it apart, cleaned it, and reassemble it--the bolt and bolt carrier could not be made to function. When reassembled and bolted back, the bolt-carrier piston assembly jams into the gas chamber and does not come out.

I can hammer it out, but that really doesn't fix the problem, as it just re-jams again on the next bolt-back.

After 3 trips to the range, and roughly 350 rounds fired, by brand new Century GP 1975 is non-functional.

From my own experience with a Century GP 1975, I would not recommend it. Hopefully, I just got a rare lemon.

But having the rifle essentially blow up in my face is a little scary, and certainly not a positive.

 

dude that sounds like a COMPLETE nightmare! that's the kind of thing that Century was feared for. sounds like you got a real bad one....

 

i hate it when someone spends their hard earned money for a firearm thats junk,totaly sucks....send it back to century....what a piece of crap!

 

If you use this weapon with sustained fire, you will melt the handguard.. After two mags. Change the handguard as it does not have a heat shield.. Trust me..

 

Geez guy....melting the handguard is the least of his problems.......

 

Thanks for the feedback, guys.

I'm sending it back to the seller today. On the phone they seemed very willing to take it back and send me a different rifle. They even said they'd pay the transfer and DROS fees, if the FFL who receives the rifle for me asks me to pay again.

I'll see how this actually works out in a couple of weeks.

Though I don't know much about rifles, it appears to me like the bolt was not working right to start with. The bolt also looked as though it had a lot more wear on it than it should have, given I'd fired only 300-350 rounds total.

 

Just thought I'd update my last post. I returned the GP-1975 and received another one. This one seems to work fine. The pins have not fallen out. Yesterday was the 3rd time I took it to the range. I fired about 160 rounds. Though I had 3 duds, I had 0 jams. This latest experience is consistent with what I'd been hearing about AK's--that it takes about 400 rounds fired before it works right (i.e., before it stops jamming.)

The rifle is surprisingly accurate, especially for an beginner like myself. I was able to consistently shoot within 1-2 feet of an object 200 yards away. And I did manage to hit a tangerine at ~150 yards (after about 8 shots).

The replacement Century GP 1975 is quite nice. I do wish that the front handgrip had a ridge on it, instead of being smooth with no easily detectable junction with the receiver when firing it.

Also, I wish the gun butt was angled downward more, so that I could get more of my shoulder behind it.

 

my friend just bought one and had ftf and fte problems. he sent it back to century and they sent him a brand new rifle. it fires perfectly now and is damn accurate. the problem with his was the headspacing. the bolt would hit the chamber head and deflect it for lack of better words. they also gave him 2 free tapco mags for his trouble. send it back to century and they will get you another one for free.. he is very happy now...

 

what company makes the receiver?

 

@ griffudd

I've got a problem with mine not ejecting every 4-5th round. Cleaned it twice, taken it to a buddy who knows far more about these than I do, ran about 500 rounds through it (that was a pain in the booty every 5 rounds having to drop the mag and fish out the casing). Still no go. I wasn't sure who to contact or what to do to see about getting it fixed or replaced. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated!!!

BTW, how was Century's customer service?

 

problems with ejecting



In my case, I didn't send it back to Century. I sent it back to the retailer--Henderson Defense in Nevada. They sent me a replacement almost immediately.

I think I was lucky that they had another one in stock. Henderson's told me that if they'd had to send it back to the manufacturer (which would have been Century in this case), that it could have taken months to get a replacement.


Regarding the casing not being ejected, is it that the empty casing is still lodged in the chamber after a shot is fired?

That was actually the terminal event with my 1st GP-1975--an empty casing, or part of a casing, got lodged in the chamber.

To this day I don't know exactly why that happened. But I've been obsessive about cleaning the chamber on the rifle, and about cleaning the bolt and making sure that the bullet extractor is clean, and that the bullet extractor spring still works.

And I've also gone to using brass cased ammunition exclusively.

I don't know if any of this helped with my 2nd GP-1975. But I haven't had any of the same problems since. And after the initial 400-500 rounds, it jams less than 1 time for every 200 rounds.

 

Sometimes I feel like I'm the only guy in the world who owns AKs that work...


99.9% of AK problems can be fixed easily, and without much money.

If there's "duds" with steel cased russian ammo, it's the rifle, not the ammo. Dissemble your bolt and clean everything good, and put a new firing pin in. German AK firing pins are available, brand new, in sealed packs.
http://robertrtg.com/akfiringpin.html

(Boxer primed brass will be inherently more reliable with worn parts...imho you're just wasting money buying brass ammo to cure a dud problem.)

"Short stroking"; Clean the gas port, get a new recoil spring. Check the piston, make sure it travels straight. (Take of the gas tube, and work the bolt back and fourth looking for it to move crookedly.)

Recoil spring; http://robertrtg.com/ak_recoilspring.html
Gas port tool; (in 74 kit) http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/CLN024-1.html
Piston; http://robertrtg.com/ak47gasrod.html

Failure to eject; Try a new extractor, clean the gas port


When buying an AK, always clean her first. There is almost always cosmoline in the gas port, and crap in the bolt assembly....it can cause problems.

I'm not an expert or anything, but the above has worked for me. Happy shooting.

 

I've cleaned the crap out of her, several times. Took it to a buddy of mine who knows firearms much better than myself and can't see what the problem is. I suppose I should probably do some research on how to replace the extractor.

Specifically what's going on is that every 3-4 rounds, it stovepipes, the casing doesn't eject fully and just sits in the chamber keeping the bolt from coming forward and/or feeding the next round from the mag, or in one case, got thrown back into the rear of the weapon. I had to dissasmble the firearm and remove the recoil spring in order to get that casing out.

I'm not a big fan of trying to get Century Arms to try to fix this as stated previously it will apparently take several months. Anyone have any good resrouces online to try to help me out?

Thanks!

 

How many mags do you have? What type of mag? Does the same thing happen with every mag?

You say you've cleaned the crap out of her, but have you completely disassembled the bolt? If you have, then you'll know that replacing the extractor is as easy as reassembling the old one after detailed cleaning. Not saying you haven't, but here's how (3/4ths down the page)

http://www.guerrillagunsmith.com/akdetailed.htm

I've seen (ok, experienced) ejecting problems from just built up primer sealant, other residue and excessive oil...stripping the bolt down completely, soaking in Hoppes and inspecting/cleaning by hand could cure your problem. If it hasn't just get a new extractor. They aren't as expensive as paying shipping and waiting months for century...

 

Well, I gave the ol' girl a good cleaning and took it up again last weekend, still no go. After some further observation and examination it's almost as though the gas piston is not really lining up with the gas tube or something like that. For example, I can cycle the action manually and periodicially it will get caught in a half-back position. If I slap the bolt to the left it lines back up and slams forward. I'm thinking possibly this friction is causing the problem. Thoughts? Solutions?

I'm not sure if the weapon is warped or what could be going on.

 

Good looking rifle. Centerfire Systems has a complete wood stock set selling for $50. Check them out, it's under AK parts.

I'll see if I can't find a link tonight. Stock set comes with a wide wood lower forearm, upper gas tube forearm, pistol grip, and butstock.

 

Century GP 1975

My 2nd Century GP 1975 has turned out to be an excellent rifle. I'm going at least 1,000 rounds without a jam now, and sometimes more.

However, before I received my current replacement GP 1975, I ordered an IO Inc CASAR (CAlifornia Semi-Automatic Rifle). I've already gone through 3 of them, having returned the 3rd one yesterday.

The CASAR's make the GP 1975 looke like a cadillac.

The IO Inc CASAR's rear trunnion rivets bend after several hundred rounds, causing the bolt carrier to lock open. I've had 2 straight rifles with exactly the same problem. It seems as if the rear trunnion rivets are excessively malleable and/or soft. The rear trunnion separates from the receiver, eventually increasing the interior receiver distance enough to cause the bolt carrier to travel rearward too far and jam open.

I can easily say that the Century GP 1975 is a better rifle than the IO Inc CASAR.

 

Update on IO Inc CASAR

I mentioned in a previous post that I'd bought an IO Inc CASAR (California Legal AK-47) from Turner's. I've since returned my 3rd CASAR (2nd replacement) for exactly the same problem as the previous one.

The rear trunnion rivets bent backwards, enlarging the distance between the trunnions, causing the bolt carrier to travel to far rearwards. This resulted in the bolt carrier sticking in the fully open position, and not firing as a result.

Since this is the 2nd IO Inc CASAR with which I've had exactly the same problem, it apparently is a design defect.

Turners elected not to replace it a 3rd time, and instead gave me credit toward any other rifle they had. I ultimately got an Entreprise AK-47 with a Nodak Spud receiver. It was somewhat more expensive, but I got an over $100 discount off the sale price of ~$860.

Unlike the IO Inc CASAR, it comes with a pistol grip and bullet button already attached, so you don't have to go out and buy them separately (The bullet button is only necessary for California sales.)

It comes with a functionally semi-auto bolt carrier, which was modified from an original full-auto bolt carrier by grinding of the ridge at the rear of the bolt carrier on the right side that trips the auto sear in full auto AKs. (It probably comes with full-auto bolt carrier for sales outside California.)

This Entreprise AK has worked like a charm. I have had absolutely 0 jams or misfires in the 1st 1,200 rounds I've fired. In contrast to common wisdom about AK-47's needing 400 or sound rounds to be broken in before they stop jamming, this AK has never jammed. Not 1 single time.

If anyone is looking to buy a reliable AK-47, the Entreprise AK-47 with a Nodak Spud receiver is the one to get. It's a little pricey for an AK, but it sure does perform well.

This rifle does seem to have the reliability often claimed for AK's.

If I have any complaints, they're relatively minor. It comes with an upper and lower rail, allowing for the immediate attachment of forward vertical grip. Unfortunately, it's necessary to take the rails off to remove the gas tube for cleaning. The rails are attached with 4 Allen screws, so you need Allen wrenches to remove it, and thus you need Allen wrenches to clean the gas tube.

Also, the front site needed a large amount of lateral (windage) adjustment. So you'll probably need a site adjustment tool as soon as you get the rifle. (I purchased one for ~$6 in the LA area, though I had to order it by mail--despite living less than 30 miles from the seller. They can be purchased online for anywhere from $5 to $20.)

I almost forgot to mention that Turner's has stopped carrying the IO Inc CASAR. For anyone considering purchasing an IO Inc CASAR, I'd strongly advise against it.

 

I have a gp 1975. It is a really nice looking ak. I just can't hit anything with it :-/

 

Greetings all. I bought a gp-1975 about 2 years ago and lucked out cause I havent had any problems. Good rifle for the money if its not a lemon. I did get composite stock and fore grip on mine and noticed they get pretty hot. Thanks for the link RSEBURTON. but the wood furniture kit is $150!! Almost have what I paid for rifle. Anyone else find cheaper wood that fits the gp1975? Thanks.

 

Check out the AK parts section at www.centerfiresystems.com

The laminate wood forearm with foregrip (some call it a donkeydeeck forearm) will offer the ultimate heat protection short of going to a rail and fore grip.

direct link:
http://centerfiresystems.com/stkaka12.aspx

 

Thanks all. Thats nice looking wood ha ha. The WASR fit for the fore grip? Thats all I want for now. Not really looking for the donky deek.

 

There's a couple different companies out there selling railed lower fore arms that a plastic foregrip can be attached to.

I had an older slim Krebs tri rail forearm on my Sar 1.
Since gone back to Romanian wood with the donkeydeek on it:

Just make sure you buy a lower rail fore arm for a stamped rifle and it should fit.