Good post..Id like to see the replys

 

thanx, dont know if its my hands



are getting bigger, fingers are gettin stiffer, or the rods are getting tiny , I know some of the older blast matches i had you could almost weld with, one i just got in was 1.75, and under .250 one it replaced was 2.25 and 5/16 od.( same company i bought from a year ago, same P/N) I know that now i slide a piece of heat shrink over the rod and warm it a lil, slide fit,holder or not. I got out up from under that truck, post haste. (changing fuel filter)

 

Try these guys:

http://www.exotac.com/fireROD

Most of their products are made in the USA as well. A bit on the pricey side but seems to be good stuff.

 

Cool..thnx

 

I bought a bunch of 1/4x2.5 I installed in a necked 30-06 from these guys years ago. When I make my new group of larger ones I'm going for 3/8x4 in a 375RUM

http://firesteel.com/FireSteel-Blank-Rods/

 

How did you get them seated in the case?..Epoxy?

 

I have several Swedish fire steels. All work well, even when wet.
I use the spine of my carbon steel Sable knife, or my custom "Old Hickory" carbon steel knife to strike them.

 

Some of my DIY Ferro rods

Distinct advantage of a firmly grippable "handle" on a Ferro rod is you can rasp the full length of the rod while applying more leverage, strength & torque. All of which makes for more, bigger & longer lasting sparks.

Link below supplies most wholesale & retail vendors

http://www.jxmetals.com/sdp/316680/4/pl-1271720/0-637725-0.html

 

Besto one....

Best I have is the EESE with the tinder holder (screw type) container attached. But its $$$. I had some of the ones you mentioned but are put up for a rainy day. My go to... is a "light my fire" BBQ ferro rod. Has the wood large handle. Was cheaper than the "Army" (light my fire) and twice as big. The last 5 ferros I bought on a test run had the Magnesieum attached...dont bother. They wont last.

 

I bought these. I like them, but that is me. They work well, but are soft so they will wear out faster than some of the higher quality rods.

Amazon.com : Labstock Brand Jumbo Firesteel DIY Pack, 3/8 X 4 Inch, Set of 4 : Sports & Outdoors

 

Ebay has ferro rods of all sizes for the cheapest I can find. This was the last one I bought.

1/2" x 5" for $3.99 shipped - Obviously these come from oversees
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Huge-1-2-x-...Rod-Flint-Fire-Starter-Magnesium-Kits-Outdoor-/181895522782?hash=item2a59d169de

Lot of 8 5/16" x 3" $11.79
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-8-Ferro...e-Starter-Survival-Magnesium-Rod-kits-lighter-/281386166471?hash=item4183ec28c7

 

^This. The ones from China seem to work fine and are far cheaper.

 

I necked the 30-06 case to 6mm in a 243W sizing die. The 1/4" rod was pressed fit in with epoxy. I drilled and tapped the primer pocked for 1/4x20 tpi. The grade 5 bolt is lathe cut to a square edge so it could be used as a scraper. A red rubber gasket completes the water proof seal. I filled the case wait waste gunpowder, enough for 10 emergency fire starts. Gunpowder take a spark really well.

I made up about 20 of them 6 years ago for Christmas presents. All are still in servive as near as I know.

The year before I make them all custom lighter jackets for a BIC. The long seam is treated with jeweler's rouge so you can strop a blade. There is almost 2' of recoverable artificial sinew in the hand stitched by a locking double needle technique.
The leather is wet formed to a lighter, dried, stamped, then glued with ShoeGoo, then sewn, trimmed and finally dyed. With a paracord lanyard it hangs inside your shirt, warm and dry.

Most people need pliers to change out the lighter due to the snug fit. A wrap or two of electrical tape on undersized lighter keeps the fit tight. A buddy has his hanging in his truck for years and it hasn't slipped out yet.

 

I have bought several off of eBay. I just make sure it's being shipped from the USA (I do that on all auctions to avoid waiting forever).

I've bought 3 from this guy http://www.ebay.com/itm/Huge-6x1-2-...rrocerium-Flint-Survival-firesteel-fire-start-/221794263385?hash=item33a3f7e159

He's a little more expensive but I get my stuff quick and have never had any issues with him.

 

Amazon has a huge selection of them. Some are posted above. Here is another one that is 1/2"

Amazon.com : Relefree 1/2" X 5" 12.7mmx12.7cm Ferrocerium Rod Flint Fire Starter Lighter Magnesium Tool Kits Camping Hiking Survival Outdoor Black : Sports & Outdoors

 

good options and answers all, charliemayer007, if you need some 6mm cases let me know, i have a hundred or so cases that have exceeded their reload lifespan, so they in the scrap brass bucket, they start getting too thin, (usually by the 4th load) i junk em. if ya need some let me know. I see 3 places i am definitely getting some from, 5/16 , 3/8 and at least 1 monster 1/2, it i think i will turn the handle out of lighter wood oversize, so if i have a wet need, I can cut shavings directly off the handle. thanx for the ideas guys, keep em coming.

 

www.firesteel.com

The ONLY one who sells the medium hardness rods. These are way hotter than a lightmy fire, or Strikeforce. However, they are easier to get sparks from than the really soft ones too. They are a perfect middle ground mix.

Some info on ferro rods
Hard - Super easy to get sparks from, but they are cool and go out quick. Has a lot of Iron, little magnesium

Medium - more difficult to get sparks from, but are much hotter. Has less iron, more Magnesium

Soft - *Very* hard to strike. Often picky on the type of striker used and require both excessive pressure, and speed when striking. however, they are super hot, shedding molten globs of 5400 degree metal that last. You can actually bounce the molten blobs of metal off the ground and then watch them dance around. These can be filed into a pile of shavings. The pile can then be ignited to start small sticks (and even pencils) on fire. The only style that can do this. Has a lot of Magnesium, much less Iron.

To buy the hard ones, look for Swiss army fire steel, or the Strikefoce firestrter.
To Buy Medium hardness, got to www.firesteel.com
To Buy the soft ones, go to USknifemaker.com

 

firesteel.com is my choice also. You need to pay attention to quality and a good mix of material in the rod - firesteel.com does that. Inexpensive too, for what you get. Good people, American made.
I've had cheap Chinese rods that would hardly spark, and not hot.

 

Thanks for the offer Goblin X. When I made that first batch I was going to use 7.62 Nato that I personally ran threw a M-60 but I couldn't find them so I used some worn out 59 National Match brass. I liked the additional powder capacity of the larger brass. I just ordered 2 of those 1/2" units and I think I still have a few 50 BMG empties from my turn on the Maw Duce. I'll use a larger bolt with a carbide tooth from a saw blade silver soldered in the end to make a first class scraper.

 

know what ya mean,



still got the some of the last belt links/shells I fired in anger from a Maw Duce , after we got back into the nest, cleaned up everything i could find in and around the tub. got almost 3/4 of a belt, and been useing them on special things as the years go by.....

 

ferro rods

I bought some on EBAY a couple months ago 1/2"X6" for around 5 bucks each free shipping of course like everything else they came from china. On the positive side they seem to be fairly decent and are damn durable.

 

Firesteel.com Good prices and lots of options. I met the owner walking around the woods near my house. Good guy.

 

I teach fire! Everything from primitive wood on wood to the most modern methods.
This type of fire starter is the best you can get:
http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/Son...vewBRDH1-b52Lig1hkSJACTPfVFtoSvDatdq9l0AW28TM3jO6vNrJDtPmDeumO2tuhowRoCLI3w_wcB

And this is a great price! That piece of kit and some cotton balls saturated with petroleum jelly can't be beat. That metal match can be used with mittens and even when hypothermic.

However we did instruct a contingency of US border patrol and they got in a creek and hypothermic. Their preferred method was a wood on wood method which they were all able to get a fire going when getting out of the creek soaking wet and slightly hypothermic!

 

That thing is a piece of junk.

There are only TWO magnesium block firestarters that are solid, reliable and actually work. The first is the original Doan magnesium firestarter (They invented the thing for the US Airforce). The second is the ones sold by firesteel.com.

*ALL* others that I have tested are a crap shoot. Some work, some don't. All are much more difficult to use. They are very hard, and difficult to scrape.

What happens, is they all (except the two listed above) source the cheapest manufacturer at the moment, and slap thier name on it. So you may buy a "Coleman" for instance. It may work. But the very next one you buy won't. You can simply never tell which ones work, or don't. Same with harbor freight, farm and fleet, or any other generic ones on the market.


There is a huge variance in the quality and purity of the magnesium too. You may buy one, with a higher level of magnesium, and it will work better. The very next one, from the SAME brand, on the SAME shelf, bought at the SAME time, will be so low in magnesium content that it won't work if you put a torch to it. There is no way to tell.

In my experience, ONLY the ones who invented it (Doan manufacturing), and the ones from firesteel.com are held to exacting standards and magnesium purity. They are the only ones that work every single time. They are the *ONLY* ones you can bet your life on.

Now, that said, the magnesium block is really the old fashioned way of doing it. It has big draw backs. For one, the strikers are super small, and get used up quick. Also, the magnesium is in a small, difficult to handle block. We have much, much better options today.

Today, you can buys a firesteel of any size imaginable, from really small, to mammoth 1"X6" sizes that will last a lifetime. This is a significant improvement on the tiny striker found on the old fashioned magnesium block.

Additionally, we can buy almost pure magnesium rod, of almost any size, to go with your ferro rod. The significant benefit is that you can get a nice 5" magnesium rod that is easy to handle due to it's shape and size, compared to the tiny little block of the old days.

Another very significant benefit of using a magnesium rod, over the block is it's over all shape. A rod is simply easier the extract shavings from because it is round.

Buy a 1/2"X5" firesteel from firesteel.com, and a 1/2X5" magnesium rod from them, with lanyard holes, add a good metal cutting sawzall blade to make your shavings and strike the rod, and you pretty much have the ultimate firestarting system.

With a little skill, you can get fire in almost any conditions, short of a hard downpour.

Magnesium burns at 5400 degrees. That is hot enough to separate water into it's base elements of Hydrogen and Oxygen...and then ignite them.



Whatever you do, DON'T trust your life to the junk linked to below.

 

Better Options...

1/2"x 5" for $20 on Amazon, 5-star rating.

1/2"x 6" w/paracord lanyard for $15 on Ebay, this is the one I use (one of them anyway)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Huge-6x1-2-...rrocerium-Flint-Survival-firesteel-fire-start-/221794263385?hash=item33a3f7e159

1/2"x 6" on Ebay, $24 for two of them with paracord lanyards.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-6x1-2-Fer...rter-Firesteel-Survival-flint-tool-w-paracord-/221912346283?hash=item33ab01aeab

Best ferro rod firestarter on the market (expensive though)
http://astore.amazon.com/preparedmind1-20/detail/B00V3ZGRE4

Excellent ferro rod striker (you can easily cut it down to make it easier to carry): http://astore.amazon.com/preparedmind1-20/detail/B00GVJKH02

 

http://firesteel.com/firesteel-magnum/


SWEET! :thumb::

 

Trouble with nitrocellulose based gun powder as a fire starter is;

Once a spark hits it, it ignites whoosh & is gone in almost an instant.

So, unless your associated "tinder" is bone dry & very fine/thin highly flammable particles.

Gunpowder isn't anywhere near an optimal fire starter.

Simply because it doesn't produce large high temp flames that continuously burn for 5 to 8 minutes.

 

Actually that's not true. Blackpowder goes up in a big 'whoosh', but smokeless powder can burn for quite awhile. It's not an ideal fire starter, but if you have anything even resembling proper tinder it will get your fire going.

 

Gunpowder works great for catching the spark and converting it to flame. You still need to do your part to have a fire. It stores really well, light and compact in a cartridge case. I have shot lots of ammo that was over 50 years old.

 

I am not disputing any of that.

Having made large batches of both black & smokeless powder.
I know a little about it.

utube video below shows HOW FAST 770 grains of Smokeless Powder burns

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHRSRwebEmE

 

Made my own black and gun cotton. Nitrated various substances with booming results. I would love to be able to make Unique at a consistent enough grade to actually shoot it in my guns.

 

Use the best ingredients available.
Cannot post compositions, as the Mod's get on my for that & I don't want to get banned.

Hands down, Paulownia wood makes the best charcoal for fast BP.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paulownia

Use the best ball mill, ball mill jars & grinding media you can DIY or afford.

Press "pucks", then granulate. :thumb:

 

I've bought some from firesteel.com with good results.

A piece of clear plastic hose can be slid over the rod to protect it and keep it away from any strike surfaces, but I mostly just rubber band the striker tightly to the rod.

FireSteel.com sells good strikers, but I've also made some good ones out of Sawzall blades that where worn out.

SD

 

The thing about those Chinese ferro rods(5" and 6"x1/2") is that they have a lower magnesium content than the rods available here in the US.
They spark alright, but it doesn't have the molten, bouncy sparks that rods with a higher magnesium content do.
I've also noticed that they tend to spark a lot up on the rod and do not shower down sparks as much as the higher mag content ones.

The chi-com rods will light magnesium shavings, cotton balls, dryer lint and hand sanitizer, but I've never been able to go straight to lighting a birdsnest/tinder bundle(skipping an accelerant) like I can with the higher magnesium rods that I bought from firesteel.com(4"x3/8").

Weight wise the 6"x1/2" chi-com rod w/lanyard weighs 4.8oz, my 4"x3/8" rod, 3"x3/8"magnesuim rod and scraper(tied together with 18" of paracord) weighs 2.3oz, half the weight, double the functionality...

As with most things of chi-com manufacture they look like a great bargain sitting on the store shelf, but once you look under the hood or get them out in the field they don't really perform that great.

 

The thing about those Chinese ferro rods(5" and 6"x1/2") is that they have a lower magnesium content than the rods available here in the US.
They spark alright, but it doesn't have the molten, bouncy sparks that rods with a higher magnesium content do.
I've also noticed that they tend to spark a lot up on the rod and do not shower down sparks as much as the higher mag content ones.

The chi-com rods will light magnesium shavings, cotton balls, dryer lint and hand sanitizer, but I've never been able to go straight to lighting a birdsnest/tinder bundle(skipping an accelerant) like I can with the higher magnesium rods that I bought from firesteel.com(4"x3/8").

That's a very good point. Not every ferrocerrium, misch metal, fire steel, or what ever name you want to call it is equal. They are all made of the same materials: steel, rare earth metals and magnesium, but their proportions vary greatly.

More steel makes the rod a lot more durable and throws a lot more sparks. But sparks are just that, sparks, they vanish quickly. So you need nice and dry tinder.

More magnesium makes the rod a lot softer and wears out a lot quicker. it throws only few sparks but they contain chunks of magnesium and keep burning for few seconds. You don't need tinder or it could be wet.

Again the difference is in the quantity and quality of sparks, and durability of the rod which will play some roll in a long term situation,

 

Technique matters too. A hard fire steel might work best with the pull back method. A softer one works better if you plant the fire steel, and shave forward into the tinder, so you can used more pressure.

No one way is right or wrong. You match the technique to the rod you have, and the tinder you are using.