Nice door!

 

I see you have a drop in ceiling above the bookcase. Hide a couple semi auto shotguns on each side, off to the left and right, angled down and controlled by a wire and you can negate any attempt at someone focusing on you book collection.

Thanks for the information, good to know.

 

Nice door!

Did you consider using lightweight concrete with zeolite when you were looking at maintaining the original thickness? Just curious.

How confident are you with those hinges and bars? Are you thinking about upgrading those later?

Thanks!

P.S. still fail for no LCARS format.

 

if your bunker is found ..... big problem is that your adversary is going to pull a "Dirty Dozen" on you & yours and burn the whole house just for spite ....

 

awesome work!

Just one thing I'm wondering.. That's an awful lot of door, but not a whole lot of lock. Is there anything that will reinforce those two "strips?" a bar or cross beam or similar? I'm thinking that the door being so solid will be the perfect transmittor of force to the two locking strips if someone were to use a heavy battering ram etc.

Edited to add:

Could you show your solution for the hidden hinges on the bookcase.. Would be very interested in how you worked that out too.

Thanks!

 

Nice Death Star. I'm sure the ventilation shaft will be secure from the Rebel Alliance behind that door.

Looks great man!

Edit: The ventilation shaft was in IV: A New Hope, this is VI: Return of the Jedi Death Star. Looks like the Empire skipped the Endor orbital shield and went to a large space bunker. They should just remember to open the bunker door when they go blow something up because if they didn't, well... that would just plain be embarrassing.

 

The locking bars are 3/8 steel, the span between the holding plates and frame is about 2". It would have to be a serious ram, aka 6 man operated log. I will bet starving folks will run out of energy and seek easier targets. Also the purpose of the book case, hide what appears to hold goodies.

And well, at that point keep in mind I will be inside; sitting in my chair waiting to shoot the dedicated fools who do manage a breech.

As for burning down the house, I would be rather miffed as I really like my house. However the bunker is under the side yard and only shares one wall with the basement. Contingency for us inside during storm / raiders and house catches fire is I have a roll of heavy aluminum duct work tape (not duct tape) to seal the inside.

The hinges are rated at 200# each and the door is around 1100#; keep in mind my bunker is not blast proof. Chance of a near by nuke where I live is remote, mainly to wait out raiders and protection from storms / tornado s.

 

controlledpress-

Here is the detail for hinges on book case:

Large offset concealed cabinet hinges pop out far enough that the side trim clears the wall. Notch was required to make everything line up with the wall correctly with the added trim thickness.

Currently using a simple ball latch to keep it closed, sometime this week I plan to sort out some sort of cable latch to secure from inside before closing bunker door.

Main technical problem was bottom trim hit the baseboard when opening. Try as I might I just could not get enough clearance to fully open the door, AND still have it not look like a door. End solution was make the damn baseboard move out of the way. Used a screen door spring to hold in place when closed, book case pushes it out of the way when opening. Spring pulls baseboard back into place when closing.

In the future, (distant?) I plan to completely redo the book case system. That room is my basement office and I want more built in book cases. So I plan to make 3, side by side. The left one will be on sliding tracks and the middle / right ones will be hinged.

Time for some ANSI art ^^

closed: |__ __ __|
open: | --v|

hmm, may have to photoshop up a better diagram...

 

controlledpress-

Here is the detail for hinges on book case:

Currently using a simple ball latch to keep it closed, sometime this week I plan to sort out some sort of cable latch to secure from inside before closing bunker door.

Cool solution.. thanks!

Maybe some kind of off center cam that will block the ball?

 

Awesome work.

Really, didn't you consider making a business out of this? I think you could make a lot of money with your superb skills.

 

Very nice! As an added bonus its a great place to hide from the wife when you bugger something up! Boy could I use one of those

 

Very awesome thank you for sharing!!!!

 

i was looking for something for a simple root cellar. then read about what it would take to be safe from a nuclear blast. i had looked at the $5000 plus price doors but they looked like they just bought a $1200 dollar safe and removed the doors. then charged $5000 for just the door.

i think your door is way better. and the cost under $1000 makes it doable.

 

Can the hinge pins be cut or driven out ?

 

Holy doors, batman! Nice work!

 

Was wondering how to build my own door instead of spending 5-10 grand. Great job! Thanks.

 

Great craftsmanship! I was curious to the hinges too...look like regular interior door hinges. Do you have a plan to cover them...maybe tact weld the pins? What if someone used your tools to start cutting it...what would you done to prevent it? It happens, happened at work. Someone drug a plasma cutter, Sawzaw, almost a forklift into our office of our warehouse and cut the floor safe open. A lot of people don't think so, but your tools can be used against you. I'ms sure with the prep on that door you have already played out every scenario.

 

Yes, the hinge pins can be driven out. May need to grease them every couple years.

Please note: the hinges are on the same side as the locks... inside.

Bad guy side is perfectly smooth except for the small inset handle for closing.

 

That's awsome! the ONLY thing I would have done different would be the hinges. I'd have used 2x2 piano hinge. Again, that is a badass door!

 

awesome job

 

How did you fill the door? It looks sorta like you welded plates to the sides (and I'm guessing the bottom too?), but how did the cement not run out?

 

I used homemade forms, a 2x8 across the bottom; wedged up from floor with blocking. Then used 14" tall plywood on each side; held with a ratchet strap around the whole door.

Filled it 14" at a time, once set up enough to not run or ooze I moved the plywood up a section and filled it again. Repeated until done.

I went this route to ensure I could poke around in the wet cement with a chunk of rebar to make sure there are no gaps or air pockets. I was going to just form the whole thing and fill it from the top; however it dawned on me that it would be almost impossible to get an even fill at the bottom and around the rebar.

 

Awesome craftsmanship!!!!!
Thanks for sharing

 

I'd definitely suggest adding some backets you could put steel bars through to barricade the door, would seem stupid not to! Also keep some silicone sealant in there in case you need it.

Another good idea is to use hinges for holding the door up, and for allowing it to swing open, but having fixed hinge bars in the door that go into the frame to provide most of the security. Heres an example of a hinge bolt, albeit you'll want a big steel bar instead!

http://www.lakesdoors.co.uk/global/images/hingebolts.jpg

 

Also, I would recommend making a tunnel as a 2nd way out.
Make a hatch that leads out and cover it with dirt & grass too.

 

That is really well done and nicely concealed. From memory the 7k doors are fitted with a gasket to give an airtight seal properly. Assuming you have some sort of pressure air filtration system in the shelter as well, would it pay to fit one to your door.