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Cherokee ???

11K views 48 replies 35 participants last post by  Rovat  
#1 ·
Let me start off by saying I'm not a jeep guy. I tend to stay away from all Chrysler products to be honest. I'm a Ford guy, I know them and I trust them.

However, I have an opportunity to pick up a 1991 Jeep Cherokee Limited 4X4 4.0 Gold Series blah blah blah, for next to nothing. Great shape body wise and drive train seems to be in good shape too.

I'm thinking of picking this up for the wife to be her daily driver and an alternative BOV to my truck should SHTF. How capable are these off road from the factory? Would there be something that would HAVE to be upgraded for mild off-road capability? How are they on gas, maintenance, towing, etc.? How is the aftermarket parts availability for them? How far would you trust the old 4.0 they come with?

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
Get it man! If you mean next to nothing being less than a thousand get it. I have an 1989 regular 4.0 and wouldn't sell it for 3k. Paid 1100 for it three years ago. Had 160k when I got it and almost 200k now. Really good engine and easy to work on. The drivetrain on those jeeps are awesome. Just small silly things will break on that rig (door locks, rear lift gate struts, head liner drooping, and stuff like that) and the 4wd is phenomenal. I put a locker in mine cause I got it for cheap but even before the 4wd was great. I don't go trying to get stuck but times I thought I should be I wasn't. I was never a jeep guy either till I got this one
 
#3 ·
"I tend to stay away from all Chrysler products to be honest. I'm a Ford guy..."

Here is today's lesson. That is a poor way of thinking. I am a professional mechanic. Here is how I think of it...I'm not pro one brand and hate all the others. I just don't like junk. Chrysler has had some great products, as has Ford. You need to start looking at the vehicle not the brand. Every manufacturer has some junk...some more than others.
 
#6 ·
Nowhere in my post did I say Chrysler was junk. I said I like Ford. I know Ford. And I trust Ford. Give me a 302 V8, a 2.3 I4, or 300 I6 and I can tear it down and build it back up. I know how all the systems work on these, from braking to heating. If it's a Mustang, a Ranger, an F Series, pretty much any RWD Ford, I am simply in my comfort zone.

If **** hit the fan while I was in one of these and I had to change a wheel bearing for example I wouldn't have an issue. I'd know exactly what tools I'd need, what parts, how to get the old one out and new one in and exactly how long it's going to take. I won't be wondering if Chevy used some weird torx bit to bolt on the calipers or if Chrysler has some fitting I've never seen on the brake line.

We all can't be mechanics for a living, learning through experience, how to fix everything that's out there and collecting every specialty tool and manual for every make and model. My dad is a mechanic, so I know how that goes and don't say any of it with disrespect but am actually in awe. That said, if runs into some weird gremlin on a Ford I'm first resource he turns to for ideas.

So here's today's lesson. Nothing wrong with going with what you know so long as you are willing to branch out and learn more when the opportunity knocks on your door. This is exactly what the original post was essentially about. I don't know if you didn't read my original post thoroughly, or if I just didn't make clear what information I was looking for, but your response was absolutely no help and that is a shame. The opinions of a licensed mechanic on maintenance of these cherokee's would have been exactly what I was looking for.
 
#7 ·
This rapidly turned from a question about a vehicle to a personal issue.

The situation with any vehilce from 1991 is the fact that the parts are 21-22 years old. They would be 21 years old on any 1991 vehicle you bought so brand is irrelivent.

You will not be dealing with repair of a 2wd Ford, Chevy or Toyota! You will be dealing with repair and maintainance of 21 year old 4WD componants and it will be a new experience no matter what the vehicle brand you choose.

Often it is a new experience when just upgrading from one year model to the next, so buy the vehicle and deal with things falling off your 21 year old buggy or buy something that scares you less.

I am on my third Cherokee, 6th Jeep. Each has clocked over 200k with no major issues, but as you get past the 150K mark small things start to pucker up and die. When you hit the 200k-15 year mark you consider each mile "borrowed time". The running gear may be fine but body parts, interior trim, AC/heating, electric windows and such become a true irritation as they go out in sequence.

At 21 years they reach the status of either "classics" to rebuild or "the extra car" for emergencies, fishing/hunting trips and bad weather.

I would not have been comfortable putting my wife in any of my 150k+ Cherokees as a "daily driver". Fact of the matter is that after we married and she drove my Cherokee in the snow a couple of times she decided she liked the 4wd concept but not the decisions involved with it in the Jeep. She bought a very nice Honda CRV with full time 4wd.
 
#8 ·
ok, 91 is the beginning of the better uh almost everything. it will have the open cooling system instead of the closed system, if it is an auto its the AW4 which is a very good auto, and if its a manual it will be the AX15 instead of the puegot BA5/10, and its the HO 4.0 instead of the non-HO.

only issue i have with the 91 era is the CAD (central axle disconnect) on the front axle but that can be fixed, and the rear axle is more than likely the dana 35.

after market is huge for cherokees, alot of guys will put a dana 44/9" from a bronco in.

very capable even stock, almost a flat belly from the get go. i was getting almost 20 out of my 87 and was getting 16 from my highly modified 97.

and just because lol
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#9 ·
^^^ what Warpath said.

The Cherokee (XJ) is a very solid and very capable on/off road machine. And '91+ is the best years. In '91 Chrysler put their own fuel injection system in them which made them the High Output 4.0.

The 4.0L is one stout engine. It is super torque rich and doesn't need to rev much at all. It is one of the best old inline 6 engines made... and should hit 200k without any trouble. They do sometimes leak a little oil... rear main seal and/or valve cover gaskets... but "oil's cheap" as my dad used to say. Gas mileage on regular 87... is around 18mpg... 20mpg on a real good day.

The 4x4 system is also very good even in stock form. Warpath mentioned the front axle on the '91... but I've never had any issues with mine. I have a '91 YJ (Wrangler) with the same drivetrain... pushing over 150k miles.

I think one of these would make a great backup, winter beater or BOV.

Cheers!:thumb:
 
#14 ·
Those 90's Cherokees are tough as ballz. The 4.0L inline six is practically legendary for torque and reliability. Aftermarket stuff to enhance your off-roading experience is widely available and pretty cheap. Even bone stock, out on the trail with decent tires, it will surprise you, I guarantee it. It will take a licking and keep on ticking.

Also I understand exactly what you mean about comfort level with Ford's. I can tear down a Mopar small-block with my eyes closed but have never had my hands on anything other than a dipstick on a Ford. I don't think Ford's are junk, they're just out of my comfort zone. Not that I couldn't figure it out -- it's a 4-cycle engine, it has wheels, brakes, steering wheel just like any other car but it's all the little things you familiarize yourself with (like knowing that the calilpers use torx bits) that make repair jobs so much easier.
 
#15 ·
Unlike others here, my rating for Cherokees is moderate;
they are moderately good off road in stock form,
They are moderately strong as long as you drive them correctly, and modify them intelligently.
The Dana 35 rear differential is on the weak side of adequate for more than moderate off road use with tires less than 32 inches (the Chrysler 8.25 inch rear diff, on later Cherokees, is not a whole lot better).
The Dana 30 front is moderately strong as long as you keep the tire size at 33 inches and below (35 inches and below with the 1995 and later large u-joint axle shafts).
Pretty much any lift means that you need to install a slip yoke eliminator (mine has 3" of lift and the slip yoke is now in poor shape because no SYE was installed.
The frame is nonexistent; its a unibody and for this reason is considered a disposable vehicle by many/most hard core off roaders. Unless you install frame stiffeners expect the vehicle to last around 2 years before giving up under active hard core off road use.
The front sheet metal suspension mounting points are often the first serious thing to deform.
Don't get me wrong; XJ Cherokees make an OK SUV, camping or beginner off road vehicle although the 4.0s get relatively poor mileage for a daily driver (mine has gotten a best of 18).

I got my '93 XJ principally because it was free, and have kept it operational because it is more enjoyable/less hassle to drive than my Ford pickup (the Ford gets better mileage).

Right now its a toss up whether I will keep the AX-15 transmission, to transplant into my Jeep and scrap the rest or just drive it until it quits.

Depending on the condition and price I would probably get the Cherokee but remember it needs significant upgrades,.

If I were going to do significant (difficult but not extreme) off roading with mine I would do the following;
First; tow points front and back (a few came with front tow points as an option).
Second; 1995 + front axle shafts (they have much stronger u-joints)
Third; frame stiffeners
4th; lift + SYE and drive shafts. (Mine has a cheap lift and definatly needs driveshafts because no SYE was installed).
5th; decent rear axle (a Dana 44 there are several that will fit or a Ford Explorer 8.8, with the high spline count shafts).
6th; selectable lockers front and rear with gears selected for the final tire size, to optimize fuel mileage.
7th; Decent mud tires.
8th; roll cage.

Enjoy!
 
#17 ·
I've owned and wheeled a couple XJs in the past, good solid reliable vehicles. IMHO, you need to lift them and go with a bit larger than stock tires to really bring out the offroad ability. I was running a 4.5" (more like 5.5") lift and 32" MTs, and was surprised on more than one occasion what it could actually do. SYE and sway bar disconnects should be considered mandatory. As mentioned earlier, these are unibody SUVs, you will get squeeks and rattles if you wheel them. They are also cheap, so people (myself included), are not so careful when wheeling them so they get pretty beat up. This is where the "disposable" attitude comes from, but the important thing is even with squeeks, rattles, scrapes, dents, etc. they just keep going.

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#19 ·
The Cherokee family is very dependable. Parts are abundant, they are easy to work on, and they just keep on going. Its not uncommon to see them still rolling with 250,000+ miles on them.
I have had quite a few Jeeps, and still do, the XJ being my favorite.
I am a mechanic by trade and dont judge by brand either, they all have limitations, good and bad.
 
#20 ·
I bought my 1999 Cherokee off of Govdeals.com about 1 month ago. 165,000 miles and runs strong with good tires. 4X4 automatic with the 4.0L engine. Paid 2,500.

So far I've replaced the battery, changed all fluids and replaced front brakes and rotors. Still have several electrical problems and a cracked windshield to attend to, but I think I'm going to be happy with this vechicle.

It's good to have another 4X4 in the stable to compliment our Subaru Outback.

Hope we get a good, heavy snow in the Ozarks this winter so I can really check this out.

Even if I could afford a dozen new cars, I always like to have a beater I can work on.

-bob
 
#28 ·
I bought my XJ Sport new in 1992 right out of college. It has the factory offroad package (skid plates, tow hooks, & stiffer suspension). I have 235 75R15 ATs on it. I have driven that XJ all over AZ chasing deer and elk. I have never gotten it stuck. I had almost 400K miles before rebuilding the engine and putting a re-manufactured transmission in it. The body is pretty much flawless. Vehicles in AZ do not rust. People say it has something to do with a "dry heat".

XJs have a cult following and there are a plethora of aftermarket parts for them.