If you are looking for .338s, look at the .338 edge. The savage shooters forums has plenty of info. Its the same thing but with .300 RUM necked up.

 

I can't speak from experance with either round but it looks like you get about 100 extra FPS from the Lapua

from Ammo & Ballistics 5th edition using the Corbon 225 grain DPX bullet in there respective round the Lapua is listed at 3100 fps and the RUM is listed at 3000 fps.

Just looking at the numbers I don't see any reason that a 338 RUM could not be a long range precision rifle, but there is more than just math that makes an accurate round so someone with actual experience with both rounds would have more data than I have.

A lot of precision rifles are custom or semi custom so If you are going to spend that kind of money you tend to go with what has a proven track record.

Respectfully Submitted

 

The biggest problem is availability of both rounds but RUM is far more scarce.

 

I would imagine that anyone serious with either of these calibers would be handloading anyway. Expensive enough as it is. My father uses a 7mm Ultra Mag for long range whitetail hunting out to 500 yards. He uses handloads with I believe a 98 grain charge (Retumbo IIRC) under a 140gr Nosler Accubond.

 

Good lord, talk about a laser beam.

 

One is for hunting Elk and the other is for hunting Humans.

 

Really, how so?

 

Don't forget the .340 Weatherby, .338-.378 Weatherby, 8.59 Galaxy, 330 Dakota, .338 Canadian Magnum, .338 A-Square, .338 Excaliber and finally the 8.59 Titan. These are all powerful .338s and they ALL suffer the same thing, brass availabilty. The 338 Lapua wins due to ease of acquiring brass. THAT is it. All the others are in the same ballpark. Even the lowly .338 Winchester Magnum can compete. These days, I'd stick to a 300 Win Mag and magic bullets for long range. Were I capable of accuracy at 1200 yards it's unlikely I'd shoot due to the lack of positively identifying the target. And much more significantly, there are very few instances I can contrive in my mind for the need to shoot that far.

OP, there isn't a nickle's worth of difference. Brass is where it's at.

 

I have shot 338LAP in Blasers quite a bit.

I have a 338RUM in a HS Precision HTR with 26 inch barrel (with HSP brake) and a Schmidt & Bender PMII 5-25 scope on it.

Across the range of bullets and loads there is no significant difference between the velocity achieved in 338LAP and 338RUM. What difference there is about the same as variations between different rifles in the same cartridge.

Both cartridges are very accurate and fairly straightforward to load.

338RUM brass is typically much cheaper than 338LAP brass.

I have tried a lot of projectiles but settled upon the Nosler 250gn Accubond sitting over 91gn of Reloader 25 and a FED GM215 primer.

I have won rifle shooting competitions with that load - but I have used more of them just smashing rocks on hillsides 1500m away

 

Since I've been able to get factory-new 300gr SMK PPU .338LM for $2.60/round I haven't felt compelled to monkey around with lesser-known .338 variants.

 

All of the Ultra Mag cases are based off the same parent case, 404 Jeffery, an older English big game (safari) cartridge.

 

If you think finding .338 RUM cases are hard try finding Jeffrey...I have an old Farquharson .400 Jeffrey (.450/400 3-inch Nitro Express)...Kynoch ammo is $55 for .404 and $42.50 for .400 for five (5) rounds.

Also the RSAUM is a shortened version of the RUM.

Also the Winchester Short Magnum (WSM) and WSSM are based off the Jeffrey as is the .375 Dakota.

 

Blackrock, Take a 300 RUM size it in a 338 RUM and trim maybe an eight of an inch. No big deal. I have formed .308 on 30-06 brass. Now we're talking trim, about a half inch. 7x57 and 8x57 from 30-06 brass is "only" about a quarter inch of trim.

As to wall thickness? Many .308s will fire reformed brass with no issue. Mind you, we're talking a full half inch down on the case. The .090" or so of the 300 vs 338 RUM, I don't think so.

 

I'm not saying it can't be done, is it worth the work involved to do it? I form 6.5 SLR brass from .308 on a fairly regular basis, and 300 BLK from .223. In the shop we have .22-250 that has been formed from 30-06 and 243 from 270. Alot of work involved.

My point being if you are worried about being able to get 338UM brass, just have the 338UM opened up to 338 Edge and you are done. Run 300 UM brass into an Edge die and away you go. No trimming or any other work. 300 UM isn't going away so you will always have brass.

 

I would definitely use a 338 Lapua for long range Elk, Bear, etc, even if it's "not for hunting". It's all about bullet selection. A 250gr Accubond or TTSX would be a lightning bolt with proper bullet placement.