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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
okay...i have looked and looked and i can't find a thread devoted to this.
please correct me if i am wrong.

I was looking at what is offered for sale online for Emergency Evac Bags for pets and i'm not certain any of those folks put much thought into them.

One of the volunteer jobs I do is Animal (including wildlife) rescue and work with CERT in my community.

I'm trying to put together a recommended BOB criteria for the other rescue groups I work with. I'd like to hear opinions from this crew in case I missed something obvious.

DOG BOB
INSERTED MICROCHIP
RECENT PHOTOGRAPHS - It Helps if You are in the picture.
MEDICAL/VACCINATION RECORDS ON PAPER (Rabies tags on collars aren't valid 'documents'
DUPLICATE COLLAR/LEASH/HARNESS WITH TAGS: ID, Rabies, Microchip, including FLASH DRIVE with records.
SADDLE BAG - Personally if the pet is large enough to carry a saddle bag, i'd get one for much of its own gear.
PET CARRIER/CAGE large enough for your pet. Collapsible for medium and large dogs. Smallish and toy dogs should have HARD SIDED carriers, they feel less vulnerable in a crowded area. Even cages, should be covered to keep the animals calm in a crowd.
FOOD DISHES The sort that screw onto the cage/carrier make less mess. But SS dishes for Water/Wet & Dry
7 DAYS FOOD & WATER. I don't know what pets think of the taste of the FIVE YEAR stored food but you should start with their REGULAR FOOD. They may turn their nose up at strange food and get irritable bowel. Three Days of food is NOT ENOUGH. What happens if you put down the food and they ignore it and then it gets ruined and you have to feed again..or you have to toss it and move to a new location? Extra won't hurt.
DOG TREATS/Chew sticks etc... You will need bribes and distractions.
DUPLICATE of their FAVORITE TOY
HEARTWORM medication
FLEA/TICK MED 1 dose of Advantix or Frontline flea and tick
PUMPKIN 1 can (for irritable bowel - do YOU want to be the one with the dog with diarrhea? - yogurt works too.)
WATER PURIFICATION tablets

IF YOU CAN GET IT
BROAD SPECTRUM ANTIBIOTIC - Clavamox, a combination of amoxicillin and clavulanic acid, used for infections caused by bacteria. Clavamox requires a prescription from your veterinarian, and is sold by the tablet. It is also available as oral drops. actually it comes as a powder you have to rehydrate and i am not sure of the expiration date window. i will check.

FIRST AID KIT
IMHO in NON SHTF situations you want to stabilize and transport
if your pet is hurting they may injure YOU while you are trying to treat it and that benefits no one.
So pack what you are comfortable doing,
Tape, Scissors, Bandages and topical antibiotics are the mainstays.
Cheap pair of Needlenose pliers - porcupines, thorns etc..
Dog Nail Clippers - small pair, can't hurt.
If you think you do stitches and set limbs more power to you, even working as a vet tech, i won't try that unless they are unconscious.

EXTRAS
ROPE LINE AND ANCHOR - just because your dog comes when you call it, doesn't mean other folks want him sniffing their pant leg.
MUZZLE of the right SIZE, the fabric velcro type, these are used for short instances when you want to treat your dog, or trim their nails etc..
Empty Collapsible Bladder for collecting water and using the purification tablets



CAT BOB
INSERTED MICROCHIP
RECENT PHOTOGRAPHS - It Helps if You are in the picture.
MEDICAL/VACCINATION RECORDS ON PAPER (Rabies tags on collars aren't valid 'documents'
DUPLICATE COLLAR/HARNESS WITH TAGS: ID, Rabies, Microchip, including FLASH DRIVE with records. Your cat may not wear one normally but in THIS CASE HE CAN SUCK IT UP.
EXTENDABLE LEASH...i don't advise 'walking' your cat. It becomes more of a drag...but if you have to take them out of the container, it is best that they are attached to you. If they take off and you let go of the handle, it whips behind them and they stop and stare at it, giving you the chance to grab it.

CAT CARRIER &/or CAGE - hard-sided carrier and the LARGEST collapsible cage you can get away with. Your cat is going to stay in it as much as possible along with the litter box, food dishes, and bedding. Medium sized collapsible dog crates work fine, but don't forget blankets to cover it. CATS DON'T ENJOY TRAVEL or crowds, etc. Limit their field of view. I let mine hang out in theirs with the door bungeed open so they think of it as HOME and won't dart out the 1st time the door is open. IF you actually bug out with your cat. TRY NEVER to open the cage/carrier outdoors, do it only in a room, or car with the doors & windows shut. Don't trust cats, they have their own ideas about safety. It helps to have a CAVE made of a box or fabric cube for them to hide in while you change their food or litter.

FOOD DISHES The sort that screw onto the cage/carrier make less mess. But SS dishes for Water/Wet & Dry. Cats like dogs don't HAVE to have wet food all the time, it may be less messy to switch to dry for the duration with wet as a treat.

7 DAYS FOOD & WATER. I don't know what pets think of the taste of the FIVE YEAR stored food but you should start with their REGULAR FOOD. They may turn their nose up at strange food and get irritable bowel. Three Days of food is NOT ENOUGH. What happens if you put down the food and they ignore it and then it gets ruined and you have to feed again..or you have to toss it and move to a new location? Extra won't hurt.
CAT TREATS - Bribes to distract from stress.

FLEA/TICK MED 1 dose of Advantage or Revolution flea and tick
HAIRBALL Treatment Tube
WATER PURIFICATION tablets

IF YOU CAN GET IT
BROAD SPECTRUM ANTIBIOTIC - Clavamox

FIRST AID KIT
Tape, Scissors, Bandages and topical antibiotics.
Cheap pair of Needle nose pliers
Nail clippers.. even the Large human kind are cheap and you can get a good grip on them.

2 or 3 CAT'S PRIDE DISPOSABLE TRAY WITH LITTER. These have litter already in them, you just peel open the covering.
hint: nearly anything can be used as a litter pan as long as it fits in the cage...SS steam trays, aluminum casseroles, plastic food containers, or cut down cardboard boxes. And in a pinch you can use leaves, shredded newspaper and wood pellets. Real Clay or Scoopable litter is messy even when it's clean, it gets into everything and spills in your car, so i wouldn't transport half used containers unless it was really sealed tight.


EXTRAS
CAT MUZZLE, the fabric velcro type it fits over their face and eyes,
Empty Collapsible Bladder for collecting water and using the purification tablets

FOLDING NET with Telescoping Handle - i bought this very cheaply from Walmart on a whim, unlike my big nets this collapses down to the size of a small tripod or umbrella. I have used it to get at animals under bushes and cars and it slides behind the seat in the truck.



Well that's what i got so far.
personally it's been impossible for me to get that far ahead with stored pet food, i have too many rescued animals around here. But i have everything else and more meds since i use them often.
I am happier with MY list than the ready made kits i have seen on the net.

Nearly all the supplies can be stored inside the pet crates but once you are at your BOL you will need a ditty bag or box to store it all. Right Now I am using a Gatemouth Canvas Tool bag. which can be shoved inside the carrier when the pet isn't using it.

 

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IF YOU CAN GET IT
BROAD SPECTRUM ANTIBIOTIC - Clavamox, a combination of amoxicillin and clavulanic acid, used for infections caused by bacteria. Clavamox requires a prescription from your veterinarian, and is sold by the tablet. It is also available as oral drops. actually it comes as a powder you have to rehydrate and i am not sure of the expiration date window. i will check.
The human version is called Augmentin and is handy to have on hand for human infections also. You can mail order it from vet suppliers or offshore pharmacies.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
should i change it to 5 days of food? is 7 too much to lug around?
i just find 3 not enough at all.
i took 3 days of food when i took 2 cats and 2 dogs on vacation for a weekend and it was JUST enough with no extra.
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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should i change it to 5 days of food? is 7 too much to lug around?
i just find 3 not enough at all.
i took 3 days of food when i took 2 cats and 2 dogs on vacation for a weekend and it was JUST enough with no extra.
gonna depend on the size of your dogs same as some of the others a carrying case even colapsable is not going to work in my situation 7 days of food for my dogs between 30-40 lbs
 

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This is what I keep in my dog's BOBs:

-One week worth of dry food stored in disposable tupperware according to daily ration size. That way you don't have to mess with bowls. Add the daily water amount directly to the food.
-A couple cans of Hill's a/d. It is designed as a recovery food. It is calorie dense and very palatable, and its wet food so there is part of daily water consumption
-A couple water bottles. They are more than capable of drinking from alternative water sources without treatment so I don't carry a week's worth.
-Orange reflective rubberized collar with id tag, rabies tag, and stainless tag with chip number. I live in the county so I don't need a city license. I also wrote on the collar with a sharpie. The tags each have two rings on them to hold them on.
-Leash and choke chain
-Carabiners. Good for everything and then some.
-Muzzle of appropriate size. Rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it
-Kong and a jar of peanut butter. Keeps them quiet and occupied. Plus I like peanut butter too.
-SAR vest for SAR dog, reflective vest for other dogs
-Dog specific meds that aren't included in my own BOB med kit. Acepromazine as a sedative. Carprofen as an anti-inflammatory. Also some paw wax, can't remember the name of it. Use it for sled dogs. It protects their feet in winter conditions and on pavement for long treks.

I keep all this stored directly in their crates, so I can grab and go. My dogs do not wear collars or walk on leashes, BUT, they know how to and are comfortable with it. They drink on command, which is good for when you need them to drink because they won't be able to for awhile. Same with relieving themselves, they know the command and that they had better go or be prepared to hold it.

Same as with human prepping, a lot of the work is done before hand. Make sure your pets are chipped and vaccinated, and that you have records. Desensitize your pets to various situations, foods, and water. Practice walking on a leash through lots of people, farmer's markets are perfect for this.
 

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In addition to what you have (minus needlenose pliers which I'll add), I carry ear drops/cleaner and q-tips, plastic bags for picking up after the pet, Rescue Remedy or other calming natural drops, a pillowcase that can be stuffed with pine needles, paper towels and small spritzer bottle of instant shampoo (car sickness) and enzymes/probiotics to help with digestion. I also carry Fish-zole for water borne protozoa or coccidiosis brought on by stress.

I also carry a few 4" pieces of orange tree tape with fishing sinkers pressed on them to mark a poop in case I have no more bags to clean up immediately, so I can come back and find it. People appreciate this.

My pets go with me, and I want them to thrive, not just survive.
 

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I'm wondering if you could dehydrate the pumpkin and just carry a baggie of dried flaked pumpkin. Has anyone tried using dried pumpkin on dogs for diarrhea?
 

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if you have a decent size dog he can carry close to or more than 25% of his weight easily so get a dog pack so if you have to bug out on foot he can carry some of his own gear
 

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Discussion Starter #12
indeed..that was a really inane comment.

if you leave your pet alone in the house or loose...it will pretty likely die.
even if you are only gone for 72 hours...it is dehydrated and will die.

you can try automated feeders, but why are you leaving? fire, flood? can you guarantee you will be back before the food runs out?

if you feel that strongly you shouldn't have any pets.

personally i've had to get into it with the authorities to get back into a house where the people were forced to leave their pet behind and the authorities didn't care about the pet.
take your animal or don't have any to begin with.

please don't respond with any 'i will just shoot it' comments
as you can imagine, that's just provocative and uncalled for.
 

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My girls dogs bob is gonna be a bag of food strapped on the back. Sorry, but my opinion on critters is that they will go without when called for. They are loved, but not people.
 

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I hope you don't mind me adding a few YT videos to this brilliant thread. For those of us who are visual heres some I've found:

First how to organise your documentation:



Emergency Kits:


For rodents, rabbits and caged animals

For cats

The plan



 

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A dog is an asset with little special needs, he'll live off scraps. But if you have a cat, one extra thing for the BOB: Soy Sauce. Cat would really suffer without it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i turned this thread into a book last fall
Ultimate Bug Out Bag for Pets
sorry this isn't in the 'right' marketplace
but as you can see it's fairly cheap book, i make only a couple of bucks
and i only make .35 cents on the kindle edition. which so far is about 5 bucks total.
and it gets donated to Animal Rescue Veterinary Services in Londonderry, NH where i work the low cost spay clinics
thanks for all your advice.
 

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I have purchased dog saddle bags for both of mine (and they wear them when we hike).
http://www.rei.com/product/832659/ruffwear-palisades-dog-pack

For a dog BOB I have the dogs carry the same things that we take with us for a hike. 5 days worth of food, dehydrated food is lighter and it is easy to make, water stored in Platypus bottles (they are extremely light and I use them as well)
http://www.rei.com/product/849835/platypus-softbottle-water-bottle-17-fl-oz

I also have them each carry one of their kong balls (almost indestructible). For medical supplies I store a few items in their bags that they can share with people as well.

Carrying the medical records is a great idea and I am going to have to add that to my BOBs.

Don't over think the pet's BOB. remember that a dog is not designed to carry a heavy load and that if you give them to much to carry it will injure them.
 
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