[Ricekila]

I pride myself on being prepared & keeping up with my stuff :

During the big flood - my genny ran perfectly -- about 6 hours in the late afternoon to early evening -- for about 2 weeks straight --

After the power came back on -- refreshed the gas - new plug - oil change - checked everything I could check -- :thumb:

Tested it religiously every 3 months -- in fact it started on the first pull two weeks ago --

Yesterday about 3M-ish a car took out a pole with cans on top -- out on the main road -- when I got home about 5 -- I had a big arsed grin on my face -- once again -- I'd have power & the sheepel will be sitting in the dark :

And of course -- it wouldn't start

Its 5 years old with less than 200 hours on it

Once I open it up --- anything past $100. in parts -- I'll get a fresh one -- still fix it & sell it :thumb:

Check your stuff

 

[woodyp]

Dam-----------that thing is still a baby.

 

[MI.oldguy]

Ran ours for an hour under load last weekend.waiting for winter/what winter?.

 

[Ricekila]

Just for craps & giggles -- I'll look into an elect. start -- then I can add battery maintenance to my ever ending list of crap to do --

 

[HandLoad]

Single Cylinder, 3600 RPM, working hard. Erodes the Sparkplug gap. Buy an Iridium Plug (or Platinum, in a pinch). Buy Exact same Heat Range, or One Step Colder. Check and set gap. Use never seize, and a Torque wrench to install.

For immediate use, check and set correct gap on your old nasty plug.

I'll bet that will get you back running.

 

[MI.oldguy]

Just for craps & giggles -- I'll look into an elect. start -- then I can add battery maintenance to my ever ending list of crap to do --

And buy a new battery every year?.they sure don't last like they used to.even with tlc and a battery tender.

 

[HandLoad]

Did you change the post while I was writing? Missed the "new plug"...

Then, check for spark? If yes, answer lies in fuel, or...

Check for compression? If no, you have valve problem. If yes, go back to fuel system.

 

[HandLoad]

Really rare these days, but possible no spark says condenser has failed. For this, ya gotta pull the flywheel.
Another failure mode, lives inside the flywheel, at crankshaft - points staying open? Lube, or replace. Replace the condenser at same time, since you are in there.

Another pretty rare failure is flywheel to magneto gap has opened up. This requires you take cooling shroud off, and using feeler gauge, see what the gap measures, then call motor Mfg'r to get recommended gap. Adjust if needed.

 

[Justme11]

Pull the carb, clean out the ports with some carb cleaner and a little pokey wire if needed, reassemble and let er rip.

That is almost my routine starting procedure. takes about 10 minutes if you have the stuff ready.

Cost = zero.

If you buy a new one, you will need to do this anyway. I don't run mine routinely anymore. I clean the carb, leave it dry, and it is ready when needed. (also I have 4 generators in the 5000-10000 watt range, so that helps a little.) And a couple smaller ones.

 

[HandLoad]

My 23 - Years New Briggs & Scrap Iron Genset has run weeks and weeks, including some short runs as well. Never needed a Condenser or Points, YET.

 

[Ricekila]

Single Cylinder, 3600 RPM, working hard. Erodes the Sparkplug gap. Buy an Iridium Plug (or Platinum, in a pinch). Buy Exact same Heat Range, or One Step Colder. Check and set gap. Use never seize, and a Torque wrench to install.

For immediate use, check and set correct gap on your old nasty plug.

I'll bet that will get you back running.

And I was just out at Manny-Moe and Jack -- and forgot to get a RC12YC

My spare is in the motor -- because I forgot to get a replacement spare for the spare -- "three-is-two--two-is-one"

And I emery-clothed - re-gapped -- still no spark

And buy a new battery every year?.they sure don't last like they used to.even with tlc and a battery tender.

Its close enough to the house -- I'd put in in the basement -- vented w/ the trickler on it

Did you change the post while I was writing? Missed the "new plug"...

Then, check for spark? If yes, answer lies in fuel, or...

Check for compression? If no, you have valve problem. If yes, go back to fuel system.

Thats called opie-ism -- post then change :

 

[Walter Tyler]

How about a solar battery tender?

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tend...78882418&sr=8-1&keywords=solar+battery+tender

 

[Ricekila]

Really rare these days, but possible no spark says condenser has failed. For this, ya gotta pull the flywheel.
Another failure mode, lives inside the flywheel, at crankshaft - points staying open? Lube, or replace. Replace the condenser at same time, since you are in there.

Another pretty rare failure is flywheel to magneto gap has opened up. This requires you take cooling shroud off, and using feeler gauge, see what the gap measures, then call motor Mfg'r to get recommended gap. Adjust if needed.

No spark at all --


I'll see what "snears" sells for a tune up kit now -- and ad that gas filter while every thing is opened --

Maybe I should start a "Genny how to 2 step" thread ? :

 

[Ricekila]

How about a solar battery tender?

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tend...78882418&sr=8-1&keywords=solar+battery+tender

Thats a thought -- mine is burning itself out with gun barrels

 

[Justme11]

Oh, missed the no spark thing. Then you need to change out the ignition bits I guess. Does it have a condenser and points? I've never had to delve into that junk on a genny.
if you keep it outside, points might have simply gotten wet. And condensers (capacitors are notorious for crapping out in the moist outdoors. )

Ignition module replacement
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wi5gTyyHUIU

 

[HandLoad]

Hmm - your unit have a "run" switch? Sometimes, vibration wears thru the ground wire that goes from magneto to switch. If the wire goes to ground, kills your spark.


OH! OH! OH!>>>> Newer units have a Low Oil level kill switch! Cheep! Cheep! If it fails, unit will have no spark!

To test this, pull wire off the switch, USUALLY found on side of crankcase, and keep it in air. FIRST, confirm plenty oil, then, Give a crank. Sneaky switch has stopped many units. Lots go in trash, or sold "not running" because of that damn switch!

 

[Vanishing Nomad]

If it was me, I would fix it, and KEEP it.

My reasoning, is that yu have been inside of it, worked on it, and developed a familiarity with it. You are getting to know all it's quirks and irregularities. That intimacy will be life saving on a SHTF. You won't have that asset with a brand new genny, and something goes wrong.

 

[The Old Coach]

Lotta genset engines have "electronic" ignition now. Also mowers, chainsaws, weedwhackers, trash pumps, you name it. The key part is the flywheel sensor which replaces the points. This frosts me, because John Deere gets $70 for a little block of plastic that cost them a buck-three-eighty to get made in China, and you can't even test the thing with a VOM. Don't ask me how I know. Fortunately for me, replacing the nasty little thing did fix the trouble, but that mower is going for sale in the spring.

The upside is that the sensor is usually external to the flywheel, so it's easier to change than the old points-and-condenser setup, and it never needs adjusting. Just have one handy because it will fail without warning.

p.s. Nice box there, Ricekila.

 

[Goblin X]

clean the magnet on the flywheel. check the coil gap, /replace the coil. Ive had em flash rust and not spark. coils are cheap, under 50$ and first, disconnect your ground switch, (shut off) and see if it fires. ive had people throw them out because of a 10$ ground switch.

 

[MI.oldguy]

Whose engine? B&S?.download a repair manual somewhere get a cup of Joe and get your VOM out.test everything.do test off/on switch and low oil sensor if you have one first.in your pic,it does not look that old,there are no points in there,havent been for at least a few or three decades..betcha you will get her fixed.may have to pull flywheel,not hard even with a cheap azz puller. 1/2 in drive impact gun works on the bolt,when you put it back on,torque the bolt with the flywheel blocked,a flat bar thru the cooling fins pushing down against the ground works best for me.no need to buy original parts from sneers either,too pricey.I have used pats small engine parts in Minn.(not a plug but their pricing and flat rate is very reasonable)all the stuff is built in the same country anyway,guess where??.a sitrep would be helpful when you have the time.