Gaton, what angle did you give it there? seems like it fold all over the edge like paper! cant remember ever seeing that with any knife.But why a baldric rig for a 22 ounce Busse Battlesaw chopper, and not for a 40 ounce 1911 auto empty? Knives are always much lighter than any handgun... The 10" Lile Rambo "Mission" weights the same as an empty SW J frame 5 shot .38 that's often seen as an ankle holster back up...
That being said, I am revising my opinion of Hollow Grinds after much testing...: This is for reasons that are... Complicated...: I've found that using a Hollow Grind while chopping probably leads to a faster continuous micro-burr, even with correct use without any side loads: I think the thinner edge of a Hollow Grind hits "softer" into wood, but this also means the edge is less stable on entry, and this leads to a faster "burr" formation, caused by a less steady course of the edge inside the wood at the moment of impact. Full Flat Grinds are more resistant to this "burr" because the constant "widening" of the blade stabilizes it more as it penetrates: It runs straighter into the wood... I don't like Convex Grinds for multiple reasons, but they would, in theory, have the same advantage as Full Flat Grinds (along with less sticking, but at the unacceptable cost -for me- of being duller generally: I won't go into that).
This has to be tempered by FFGs, in my other observations, being less tolerant at the edge of accidentally applying side loads, because the "shoulders" of the edge are less "prominent" on FFGs, for the same edge angle, than on Hollow Grinds. Prominent "shoulders" take the lateral load off the apex more, reducing gross apex warping... For similar reasons, comparably thin convex edges also suffer more from side loads: Here my INFI Busse Battlesaw at around 15 dps final, very mild use:
View attachment 377765
So microscopic apex burr from normal "competent" chopping: Flat Grinds better.
Accidental side loads while carelessly twisting knife: Less major edge apex warping for Hollow Grinds, due to the more acute/prominent edge shoulders taking the load away from the apex.
Combining a Full Flat Grind and 420J improves "normal" (no accidental side-twist) edge holding when chopping, because 420J loses its micro-apex faster, so there is no "burr" to bend and make a "lever" for a higher and higher bend on the rest of the edge, acting like a microlever to keep warping the edge more and more for each hit. Plus, the Full Flat Grind also runs into the wood straighter! This explains why FFG profiles in Taiwanese 420J seemed to hold up so well, being reluctant to make that continuous misaligned bent "lip" that gets taller and taller with each hit.
However, if I mishandled the 420J FFG knife, and put side loads on it, then the apex would fare worse than a similar Hollow Grind. This due both to the softer 420J steel and the lesser edge shoulders of a FFG. It is complicated, but I hope it makes sense.