Survivalist Forum banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I am new to growing potatoes. Last year was my first year and I had very good results.

This year I am going to give it another go. I have my seed potatoes baught, 10lbs of yukon gold, 2 lbs of German butterball and 2 lbs of aderondac blue.

My garden is only so big so I would like to try growing some of them in raised containers to help with space. I have read that the Yukons don't work good in these raised beds, but will these butterball and blues work?

Also, up here in Michigan our average last day of frost is in the end of
April/first of may. But we have been having summer like weather and I don't feel we will be getting any hard freezes any more.

Am I safe to start some potatoes?
 

·
Blackhorse Cav 3/11 ACR
Joined
·
584 Posts
It takes about 3 weeks for a seed tater to pop stems up through the soil when planted about 4" deep.
This new growth is susceptible to frost .
If you started early and a frost became reality after they poke through then you could cover them with more soil to protect them.
Can't answer the other question(s).
 

·
Subterranean Nut Hoarder
Joined
·
665 Posts
I grow red pontiacs in a clawfoot bathtub in the garden. They do just fine. I angled it so the drain hole is at the lowest point, and they're planted in alternating layers of straw, compost, and dirt so the drainage is good.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
I grow reds and whites in both raised and flat beds. I plant them just before last frost and cover over with a thick, heavy layer of dry leaves to protect any new growth from the frost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,590 Posts
i have found that even if the tops get a bit of frost they just send up new sprouts so even a frost or two dont stop them as long as the potatoes dont freeze,,,this isnt very likly after the grounds thawed out unless theres several days of negative temps,,,i usualy get hit by frost on my spuds every year,,,i start them out early and i do plant a bit deep to protect the potatoes just in case
 

·
I am a woman. :o)
Joined
·
2,852 Posts
I grow red pontiacs in a clawfoot bathtub in the garden. They do just fine. I angled it so the drain hole is at the lowest point, and they're planted in alternating layers of straw, compost, and dirt so the drainage is good.
Taters in the tub!!! How cute! Post a picture if you can!:)
 

·
Soon
Joined
·
1,444 Posts
When planting taters in a box frame, how soon do you add soil and the next slats. In other words, I am making a 3x3 box, with corner posts, will keep building up as the taters grow.

Haven't done this before, so need to know when to add more dirt and the next slat. I am hoping if I do this right, then I can pop the boards off the bottem and raid the potatoes that have matured, as needed.

I have read you can get 100 lbs of taters for a 4x4 box. Has any one done this and how many did you actually get??
 

·
www.chemflame.com
Joined
·
1,174 Posts

·
Fringe Element
Joined
·
2,595 Posts
From my experience you can leave them in the ground all winter FTM as long as they
don't freeze. But if you try that trick with cutting them up with one eye per piece and
then letting them scab over before you plant the pieces, don't plant them before the
ground warms up or they'll rot. (We don't even do that any more, it's too much
trouble; we just plant whole ones anyway).
 

·
Soon
Joined
·
1,444 Posts
You can see some of the recommend potatoes at
http://www.irisheyesgardenseeds.com/growers1.php
http://www.ehow.com/list_7461703_potato-varieties-bin-growing.html
Yukon Gold won't work. They'll just grow on the first layer, but won't grow up as you add soil.
German Butterball should work
Adirondack Blue. I don't know about these, but throw them in and see what happens.

I use Red Pontiac for mine.
I buy russet at the grocery store and prefer the taste. Will these store well? I mean the ones I grow myself, your link didn't show if they did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Potatoe towers

I just watched a number of video's on youtube about this tower method and it seems to me that no one really has much sucsess. The 100 lbs from just a couple square feet claims just aren't there. Has anybody here had any GOOD results with this method and are there any special tricks to maximize yeild? I have always planted my spuds the old fashioned way and had good results. I just dont want to waste my time and money with this method if it's really not worth a bigger yeild.
 

·
Soon
Joined
·
1,444 Posts
I just watched a number of video's on youtube about this tower method and it seems to me that no one really has much sucsess. The 100 lbs from just a couple square feet claims just aren't there. Has anybody here had any GOOD results with this method and are there any special tricks to maximize yeild? I have always planted my spuds the old fashioned way and had good results. I just dont want to waste my time and money with this method if it's really not worth a bigger yeild.
Scroll up hon. A poster said he had 900 pounds!
 

·
www.chemflame.com
Joined
·
1,174 Posts
From my experience you can leave them in the ground all winter FTM as long as they
don't freeze. But if you try that trick with cutting them up with one eye per piece and
then letting them scab over before you plant the pieces, don't plant them before the
ground warms up or they'll rot. (We don't even do that any more, it's too much
trouble; we just plant whole ones anyway).
I still have ones from last year growing right now. I did the same thing as you for the first time this year. I just threw them in whole. Like you say, it's less trouble anyways.
 

·
www.chemflame.com
Joined
·
1,174 Posts
I just watched a number of video's on youtube about this tower method and it seems to me that no one really has much sucsess. The 100 lbs from just a couple square feet claims just aren't there. Has anybody here had any GOOD results with this method and are there any special tricks to maximize yeild? I have always planted my spuds the old fashioned way and had good results. I just dont want to waste my time and money with this method if it's really not worth a bigger yeild.
Most of the people that have had bad results, used the wrong type of potato. You cann't just throw any type in. I have links above of which potato varieties work the best.
 

·
Closed for the Season.
Joined
·
15,782 Posts
I am trying the potato box idea this year using Yukon Golds. So far the potato plants are beginning to grow from the eyes that I planted. Soon as the get high enough I will add another level of soil. Have no idea how it will all work out since this is my first try at the thing. I did note that the seed package (3#s) said to expect 30-40 lbs worth of potatoes.
 

·
Getting There!
Joined
·
11,458 Posts
http://www.garden.org/foodguide/browse/veggie/potatoes_planting/566

"Potatoes can be planted very early in the season -- almost as soon as the frost is out of the ground and you're able to work the soil. In the North, you can plant your first crop of early maturing potatoes in April, usually six to eight weeks before the last frost."

The jet stream is doing a strange twist and making for the warm weather. It might straighten out, though and give you some more normal weather.

I planted early (potatoes and peas) and I think that I'm going to make it. It's always a gamble here. If I wait I might not get enough moisture if we are going to have another drought year.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top