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Urban survival tools

19K views 66 replies 34 participants last post by  Shotgunsurgeon  
#1 ·
Hello, I would like to ask you fellows about some recommendations for multi-purpose survival/rescue tools for an exclusively urban SHTF environment.

Think zombies, war, natural disaster etc., tools which can also be used as rescue tools to get trapped people out of buildings and vehicles, which in my country would mean dealing with lots of concrete, padlocks, chains and iron bars, but can also double as a self-defense tool if necessary.

I am a medical student in the Dominican Republic, when the earthquake hit our neighbors, a lot of our doctors were forced to go to Haiti to help in the relief efforts.
Our law dictates that in the event of a natural disaster, we be can obligated to assist as doctors, and be sent straight into the mess.

I have considered the following:

The Ontario Sp8 Survival Machete, as a knife/machete/pry bar.

The Cold Steel Special Forces Shovel, as a hatchet, e-tool, light prybar, lock breaker, etc.

Gerber Downrange Tomahawk as pry bar, hachet, hammer etc.

Maybe a light weight but strong bolt cutter if anyone knows of one.

Prices should be less than $200 US, if possible. We have to pay a dumb tax for internet purchases over $200, also my monetary resources are very limited.

I would welcome any input, thank you for your time.
 
#9 ·
#5 ·
I apologize for not being more clear, I'm looking for suggestions for the following:

A large knife/short machete that can also be used for prying.
A multipurpose larger tool that can chop/smash/pry/hammer etc.
And a lightweight but effective bolt cutter.

All being relatively light weight and compact, and under $200 US each.
If anyone has any suggestions that they consider better than my examples from the first post, please let me know.

A full size pry bar and axe are really too large and heavy for my needs.

Breaking through walls here is not easy, that's not really a concern of mine, it would require at least a 15 lb. sledgehammer. There is very little use of drywall here, and most doors are made of steel or mahogany.
 
#7 ·
Get a 12" demo tool or a Halligan Tool
Medium pair of bolt cutters
EMS scissors
Live power line pole
Rubber mallet
Heat retardant gloves and/or puncture resistant gloves
Window punch
Good pair of snips
Entrenching tool
Butane torch
Water/gas wrenches
Good pair of vise grips

Those should serve you well for the purposes you describe
 
#8 ·
Stanley FUBAR Demo Tool is great. Easy to modify too.

I highly recommend Sillcock Keys for any survival in urban settings kit. They are awesome help.

Fencing Pliers give you a hammer, crimper, wire cutter, pliers, and more all in one.
 
#12 ·
My Urban survival tool list

My Urban survival list, with pics, cause I like me some "prepper porn!"

- SOG Fusion Tomahawk or Esee Junglas or both:

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- Esee-6 or 4 as the situation dictates (if I have my Junglas i take the E-4)

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Leatherman Wave with driver bit kit and BSA ferrocerium rod tied to the sheath and stored in one of the side sleaves:

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- CRK&T MAK I Pry-knife

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- Gerber Mil-Spec Concertina Wire Cutters

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- Gerber/Fiskars pruners (for moving quietly and carefully though shrubbery and other landscape vegitation.

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I have a Gerber folding shovel if needed for hides and caching/digging up supplies.
 
#15 ·
My Urban survival list, with pics, cause I like me some "prepper porn!"

- CRK&T MAK I Pry-knife

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My buddy James designed the MAK. Met him through another friend a couple years ago and since then he's made me some kydex sheaths for my Izula and Candiru, as well as a low rider Ti clip for my Spyderco PM2.

Back on topic, another low profile prying tool you can consider is the CountyComm Breacher Bar.
 
#19 ·
Not often considered, but of real utility in a strictly built-up environment...

A pair of channel locks.

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Not too heavy and great for dealing with locks, knobsets, hinge pins, latches, or any thing that needs to be grasped, twisted, turned, bent, broken free, or wiggled loose.
 
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#20 ·
Leave saving people to the trained folks. Focus on being able to get yourself out safely - a lot of that has to do with what you do in the first 10 seconds of an event (especially an earth quake).

Being a doctor doesn't mean you are going to be hacking down walls and breaking up concrete, unless you are the victim in the situation. Prepare for that. You can't save the world, just do what you can where you will be able to do the most.

If I was a doctor, I would be focused on setting up a central location where victims can be brought to see what I (and eventually other doctors) could try to help as best I could.
 
#23 ·
I have a layered approach to this need. My EDC pocket tool is a LM XE-6. Pocketable , 6.9oz.s and acceptable in venues where a bigger tool or knife would not pass muster. In my EDC kit bag, a LM Blast, sadly now discontinued. Bigger and stronger than the XE-6, but still not off-putting to security forces, unless no tool or knife is allowed. Also a Res-Q-Me tool. For my GHB, my light but still very capable kit is a Gerber LMF II. Good strong blade, hammer butt, electrically insulated, built-in sharpener, reasonable size/weight/price. A Channelock 369 , 9.5" Electrician' pliers, with added silicon wrap on handles for electric insulation. It's a good pliers, decent hammer, turns a gas cock, cuts heavy duty wire. A titanium right-angle head, 11"nail puller pry bar. Expensive. Look for sales. Light & strong pry bar. Same tapeing on shaft. Next is a cutting ( or chopping) tool. I'm not entirely happy on this leg. Two Varco wire saws are a base. Sometimes a good small folding saw or a keyhole saw with a hacksaw blade or a hacksaw blade or wire blade with chrome rings in the end holes. [Your suggestions welcome.]. I've never carried an ax in my bag, although I have an axe and shovel in the car. Of course, I also carry varying amounts of Kevlar cord or 550',7 strand cord & Gorilla tape in my EDC and kits.
 
#26 ·
Im lucky here as I have it all already due to the fact my work requires me to have my tools at all times. But three big tools are in my truck at all times and they are huge demo bar. Its a knock off of a name brand, a shovel and a 2 pound sledge hammer. Those never leave the truck. As for hand tools there is my 28oz framing hammer, cats paw, utility knife, 30' tape, folding saw plastic zip ties a bunch of screws, nails and so on. Sin e I started looking at things as a prepped, I realized we have it pretty good since we have cars. Oh,
 
#27 ·
Padlocks, iron bars, no problem with something like this:
www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2680-22

Milwaukee is a top of the line tool and you could order the tool, charger, and batteries separately to avoid the tax...or perhaps buy a Ryobi for less (still a great tool, just not as robust). Beats using brute force alone to separate steel from steel or steel from concrete.

Or how about a nice gas powered rotary saw? www.teamequipment.com/ For those times when you need to cut your way into a cinder block wall!
 
#32 ·
If you're looking for a single, inexpensive tool to cover all of your chopping, hacking & prying jobs, look no further than a roofer's shingling hatchet.

It can chop through walls, smash safety-glass windows or windshields, send doorknobs & padlocks flying into the stratosphere, and even make for a formidable weapon (blunt OR sharp end) up close & personal. :whip: :whip: :whip:

Other than a machete, it is the only pure tool that I carry in my bug-in bag. :thumb:

 
#33 ·
The Ontario Sp8 Survival Machete, as a knife/machete/pry bar.

The Cold Steel Special Forces Shovel, as a hatchet, e-tool, light prybar, lock breaker, etc.

Gerber Downrange Tomahawk as pry bar, hachet, hammer etc.

Maybe a light weight but strong bolt cutter if anyone knows of one.
Consider sticking to basics and getting heavy, cheap, dependable tools:

  • Straight-claw hammer, long handle, 22 ounces (600 grams) or heavier
  • Cold-steel wrecking bar - Dewalt makes a 36 inch bar that does hard work
  • Heavy axe, like a quality fireman's axe
  • Heavy hatchet
  • Well-fitting tough leather gloves

Personally I wouldn't bother with a bolt cutter but if you do, consider getting one with longer handles for leverage.

If you end up with fiberglass handles then get a roll or two of friction tape to wrap them for a firm grip.

If you get into a serious disaster you will end up throwing out most of that high-style stuff if it is not heavy and super strong. Good luck.