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Just wondering if anyone wants to guess up a materials list, plans, and specs on building one of these? Any thoughts in general?

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If the verticals are 18 in on center, the cabin, as shown, is 9 ft long.
If 24 in OC, the cabin is 10 ft long.

4x8 plywood would call for the cabin roof to be either 8 or 12 feet long.for ease of building
Do the math for a 45 degree angle for the length of the 2x4s.

10 ft wide yields an inside height of 8.66 feet Make your BoM from this
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If the verticals are 18 in on center, the cabin is 9 ft long.
If 24 in OC, the cabin is 10 ft long.

4x8 plywood would call for the cabin roof to be either 8 or 12 feet long.for ease of building
Do the math for a 45 degree angle for the length of the 2x4s.

10 ft wide yields an inside height of 8.66 feet Make your BoM from this
.
I like the 10’ length and use 2x6s
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
make it out of pressure treated or it will rot very fast.
Yeah I was thinking if you used cinder blocks and floor joists with subfloor, it would keep the whole thing off the ground or just pour a small concrete pad. I don’t think you want to be in a room with a bunch of enclosed and exposed treated wood while you have fumes from a fire around you. I would be afraid it might break down the chemicals in the treated wood and you would be breathing it in all the time. I remember a bunch of kids got sick just from being near the fumes of burning treated wood and even though this would not be burning directly, I would still not want the exposure over time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I did the plans for an 8' x 16' by 12' tall trapper cabin. It used 2" x 6" and 4'x8' OSB. The storage loft was the top 4' and it had eves for fire wood. I look and see if I can find the plans.
That would be great, I would probably swap out the OSB for plywood. My current shop has OSB but I do have siding on the outside
 

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Yeah I was thinking if you used cinder blocks and floor joists with subfloor, it would keep the whole thing off the ground or just pour a small concrete pad. I don’t think you want to be in a room with a bunch of enclosed and exposed treated wood while you have fumes from a fire around you. I would be afraid it might break down the chemicals in the treated wood and you would be breathing it in all the time. I remember a bunch of kids got sick just from being near the fumes of burning treated wood and even though this would not be burning directly, I would still not want the exposure over time.
I agree a foundation to get it up off the ground is much better . as shown it will be full of termites and molds in less than a year unless treated. the one shown lacks a floor as well . if one is going to build something and spend all that money get it off the ground.
 

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If the verticals are 18 in on center, the cabin is 9 ft long.
If 24 in OC, the cabin is 10 ft long.

4x8 plywood would call for the cabin roof to be either 8 or 12 feet long.for ease of building
Do the math for a 45 degree angle for the length of the 2x4s.

10 ft wide yields an inside height of 8.66 feet Make your BoM from this
.
A dimension on the right-hand side of the plan view says it's 12' deep and the plan view is symmetrical, so the plan says it's 12' x 12'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A dimension on the right-hand side of the plan view says it's 12' deep and the plan view is symmetrical, so the plan says it's 12' x 12'.
You keep adding to the amount of quikcrete I‘m gonna have to haul to the woods
 

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Live Secret, Live Happy
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You keep adding to the amount of quikcrete I‘m gonna have to haul to the woods
Early cabins were supported by native rocks set into soil below frost line, so you need just enough quick crete to motar them together. If you have termites like mine, you want your lowest wood members at least 20" above the soil. My log home is 30" above the soil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Early cabins were supported by native rocks set into soil below frost line, so you need just enough quick crete to motar them together. If you have termites like mine, you want your lowest wood members at least 20" above the soil. My log home is 30" above the soil.
30” crawlspace would be ideal. my shop only has about a 12“ crawlspace and coyotes literally ripped off a corner of it to get underneath it one winter
 

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Live Secret, Live Happy
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30” crawlspace would be ideal. my shop only has about a 12“ crawlspace and coyotes literally ripped off a corner of it to get underneath it one winter
The modern solution to pour concrete into a tube set down below frost line. Fancy jobs use a 12" dia steel culvert, or a cardboard tube from home depot, but you could just tape up part of a cardboard box and fill it with concrete and fist sized rocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The modern solution to pour concrete into a tube set down below frost line. Fancy jobs use a 12" dia steel culvert, or a cardboard tube from home depot, but you could just tape up part of a cardboard box and fill it with concrete and fist sized rocks.
I would probably just pour a pad and take bags out there over time.
 

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I love the ease of this shelter. My improvement would be to dig out about 2-3 feet of dirt so the inside standing height wouldn't make me want to hurt myself or others. I'd also build to have 4x8 sheets with the length of 8' as the top to bottom, and have three of them for a 12" length shelter. And I'd devise beds that folded up onto the walls.
 

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Instead of OSB or plywood, one could use tarps.
Not as viable long term, but pretend it's just a frame for a tent, and you'll get the idea.


I love the ease of this shelter. My improvement would be to dig out about 2-3 feet of dirt so the inside standing height wouldn't make me want to hurt myself or others. I'd also build to have 4x8 sheets with the length of 8' as the top to bottom, and have three of them for a 12" length shelter. And I'd devise beds that folded up onto the walls.
Folding beds would be a great thing. Easy access to storage underneath, or fasten them in the up position, and you have a place to pop out your lawn chair and relax.

I agree a foundation to get it up off the ground is much better . as shown it will be full of termites and molds in less than a year unless treated. the one shown lacks a floor as well . if one is going to build something and spend all that money get it off the ground.
You guys are looking at this as if it were designed for your AO. It's not. It was designed for places where termites and mold aren't a thing, but rocky soil, snow and wind are. People have built dirt floor houses for eons; so "lacking" a floor for a "squatter shack" isn't really a thing either, especially in an area where ground water isn't an issue, and the "floor" will remain dry.

It's possible that this shelter simply isn't worth building in your AO, and you need to find a better option, or make serious changes to this one. But in my AO, it would work perfectly.
 
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