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(Svea) pack stoves the ups and down

9K views 50 replies 19 participants last post by  zemio 
#1 ·
A humorous article and the accompanying video done by our local paper highlights the authors Svea stove
http://www.statesmanjournal.com/sto...2014/08/28/get-close-backpack-stove/14681049/

I can relate to the blow torch analogy- i've been using the same Peak 1 stove for going on thirty years now!

and the video;
http://www.statesmanjournal.com/videos/sports/outdoors/2014/08/28/14751893

I found it interesting that he is using an MSR fuel bottle; they are interchangeable with Optimus products. I've got a multifuel Nova that is bottle fed that required a MSR bottle to operate (i couldn't find an optimus bottle either). The multi fuel stove will run on any petroleum distillate, it resides in my GMHB along with a siphon if I should have a extended walk home.....

Stories humorous or otherwise relating to experiences with the various models of pack stoves will be appreciated! Thanks!
 
#5 ·
I've used Sveas for about 25 years and never had the type of experience some people describe.
I'm sorry 25 years and 30 years, it's been since the early 60's since I use my Svea stove, no problems no burnt eyebrows, is there a problem with this great stove?

That's over 55 years, yeah there are better stoves now, but the Svea is a GREAT stove.



Rancher
 
#3 ·
I never had any problems with them. Some folks could ruin an anvil with a rubber mallet.

This is my newest (practically) unused military 2 burner gasoline Coleman on full. I like the stainless lid for the aluminum carrying case this one has. I have a well used one also and 3 of the one burner models. They all can be a little flamey until they warm up and quit spewing liquid fuel.

 
#4 ·
It has to do with overpressure. If they get too hot, the gas vapor will blow out the safety valve and ignite. It's really not that big a deal, it's designed to do that so it will burn out instead of blow up. I've had it happen a couple times. The first time was unexpected and induced a bit of panic, but after watching it sit there and burn for a while, realized it was not a big deal.

I've still got my Svea, and it's a good backup stove and it will burn almost any kind of unleaded gasoline. It will probably still work 100 years from now as it's very simple and have only a couple moving parts. It's also easily rebuildable and repairable in the field, although I've never had to do that.

But it's heavy and noisy. In warmer weather I like my energy drink alcohol stove. It weighs less than 2 oz and boils 2 cups of water in 2 mins. It also uses very little fuel, so fuel weight is next to nothing as well. It also cost nothing, which is a nice perk.

Az
 
#7 ·
It has to do with overpressure. If they get too hot, the gas vapor will blow out the safety valve and ignite. It's really not that big a deal, it's designed to do that so it will burn out instead of blow up. I've had it happen a couple times. The first time was unexpected and induced a bit of panic, but after watching it sit there and burn for a while, realized it was not a big deal.

Az
I was preparing lunch during a snow day trip when i got the fuel air mix wrong on my peak 1, it caught fire, i got fuel on me/jacket/mittens and caught fire too!. I knocked the stove off the fence post where it had been residing and it quickly sank away from sight into a snow bank below.
I put me out, and dug down a few feet into the snow to retrieve my stove, the fire was out but the stove had started to generate and was now running just fine!
 
#9 ·
I have to reply to this also, being the owner of several Svea model 123's. And several other Svea, Optimus and other Swedish stoves.

The 123 is a standard pressure stove. I have never had an eye brow burning experience, or anything like the author of this article has had.

There is one neat accessory that I have picked up a couple of years ago for the 123's. The quietstove silent burner. this item very much quiets the stove down, but that aside, operates as normal. They are a little pricy for what they are, but I like mine.
 
#10 ·
One of the starting techniques for my 123 is to turn it upside down and pour a spoonful of gas into the concave underside then solomnly light it and warm my hands. At this point someone will say something like 'um dude, dont you light the other end? Look stunned, reverse the now warmed up and nicely pressurised stove and light.

Or the 'fire ball' method for starting steel cased 8R's on cold mornings, self-explanitory that one.

Cartridges were never this much fun.
 
#13 ·
Preheating especially in the colder climates and elevations during winter camp outs has always been important for effective lighting in my liquid fueled lanterns and stoves.

Joe' can you explain about the quietstove silent burner further? How is it used/attached? It is a permanent fixture and how does it affect performance?

This is a new one for me and I'd appreciate your insight and experience on this.

My Nova sound like a jet engine when it gets going and i know some of the variants of the MSR XGK are similar too.

Thanks for all the continued input folks.
 
#14 ·
Joe' can you explain about the quietstove silent burner further? How is it used/attached? It is a permanent fixture and how does it affect performance?
Here are a couple of links. You esentially pull the flame spreader, and install this device.

Amazon.com : QUIETSTOVE? SILENT MUTER DAMPER CAP for SVEA 123/123R BACKPACKING CAMPING STOVE : Optimus Svea : Sports & Outdoors

It is expensive. As much as a Svea 123.

Also, the QuietStove people have video's on Youtube that somewhat shows how much quieter this device is, vs the 123 in its standard configuration.

Hope this helps,
 
#19 ·
Thanks for the post and the link Joe it does help.

I see they make one for my nova but it costs almost as much as my stove and it limits the multi fuel capability.

The peak 1 has been around for a long time. i got my first one in 1981'ish and my most recent stove/lantern combo as a gift from my BIL.

The latest model eliminates a valve so fuel and flame are now controlled by a single lever.

They are resilient, i have had my stoves fully engulfed with only mild wrinkling of the labeling afterwards. Fuel to air ratio is important and too rich a mix can result especially initially with a large yellow/orange flame, until the stove generator starts to vaporizes and heats the fuel mix. an additional minute of pumping is important to maintain tank pressure. They start quick and can be adjusted well. the wind screen can be effective.

Sometime fuel splash can involve the tank. and can ignite. Over the years i have seen a few stoves go airborne as scouts/campers have tossed it away from their shelters.

I preheat in winter climes.
https://tse4.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.608023341947489999&pid=15.1&H=230&W=160

the newer model
https://tse4.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.608004903659374275&pid=15.1&H=213&W=160

thanks folks for all the input!
 
#24 ·
I know the Spiritburner site well, lots of nice folks and enough info, photos, links etc to keep even the biggest anorak amused. They do like their liquid fuel stoves.........

I have a large soft spot for the Optimus 111 kero beast as well, I'm reliably informed they sound like a loaded F4 on afterburner at full noise:)
 
#30 ·
I'm also a fan of the little Swedish stoves. I've managed to accumulate a couple 123Rs an 8R (Primus brand) and most recently a 99. All liquid fueled stoves require a learning curve, and it's possible that the Swedish stoves have more idiosyncrasies than some others, but once learned, they really are bomb-proof. In my experience, the flat stoves (8R/99) really benefit from adding a midi-pump. They burn hotter and run cooler (i.e. the tank keeps cooler). All of them require the user to equalize the tank pressure before you try to prime them. The tanks should be insulated from the cold ground in Winter weather. Take care of these things, and you'll have a stove that works. Modern liquid stoves are often hotter, but the little Swedish stoves work just fine.

As for the noise of the roarer burner, I regard it as the sound of security. It's a cheery foreshadowing of hot coffee and all things good. Now, if I could only run into a 111 (or 111B) for a reasonable price…

PC
 
#34 ·
In my experience, the flat stoves (8R/99) really benefit from adding a midi-pump. They burn hotter and run cooler (i.e. the tank keeps cooler).
I have been looking for a midi pump for years. They are still being made, but no one sells them.

People bid crazy numbers when an old one pops up on eBay.

Is there a place someone can buy a midi pump online with a credit card?
 
#32 ·
I usually wrap the valve stem with fibreglass rope and hold in place with a twist of copper wire. Now your priming fluid (I just bail a couple of caps of fuel from the tank) won't go everywhere if knocked or tipped. Much safer. Pure cotton string will work too, just dont wind it on tightly and build it up about 4 layers deep.
 
#35 ·
Slide over to www.spiritburner.com they'll fix you up. Unless you are up to your neck in snow, midi pumps seem a bit superfluous to me. I've owned a few 8R's over the years, tough and reliable. You can beat needing a pump in cold weather by employing the 'Fireball' method ie a good shot of primer and 3 or 4 fat drops on the tank itself, you want that to burn off in 10-20 secs. The stove is in a steel case, might as well take advantage of the fact. Once it's nice and warm, I open the valve regardless of if the primer is still burning, it helps stop over pressurisation and a slightly worrying but fairly safe flame out of the filler cap relief port. All of this assumes you are NOT!! using the stove inside a tent. 8R's have a rep for being a bit cranky in very cold weather, a solid pre-heat is vital.
 
#38 ·
Agreed on the 111, Rik, but running petrol in them scares me, there is only an NRV pip between me and imolation. Just sold my Sigg Tourist (Wahhhhhhh!) circumstances have demanded that my overall junk collection must be culled off with extreme prejudice. I'm keeping my 1st 123, the kero 111 and an Optimus 77a.....
 
#46 ·
I sort of agree with you but the burner on the 111B is designed for Coleman fuel and always turn the stove side on to you so if you did blow the safety valve any flame would shoot away from you... that said I only have one 111B and its part of my collection and not a 'user'. I find paraffin/kerosene a forgiving fuel (which won't fireball if the valve pops) and takes years and years to 'go off'. The 77 is a nice bit of kit.

I just fettled up a Primus classic brass stove, 80 years old and going great :)

 
#41 ·
Here is 2 of my one burner Coleman's. The one on the left I got in Germany back in 75. It was dead when my platoon sergeant gave it to me. Someone had stripped the little brass peg inside that runs the needle up and down. I sharpened a nail and used a drill press to bore the nail in and make a new peg. Work great for years. Then the red outside control knob broke. Way to many flaming's flair ups on starting, I guess. Made a backing plate and riveted it on with aircraft aluminum rivets. Back in operation.

 
#45 ·
I had a couple of those Coleman GI's just for the interest. Cool noise but there was no turning them down for an effective simmer. Seemed to me to be a lot of plumbing for something that only ran at full blast. Bigger and heavier than my 123 anyhow, tho the pots were a good thing. I've heard it said that the whole idea was a fast heat up only, water, mre's, what ever, but for the same level of tech I never figured why it wouldnt turn up and down like a civie stove. A graduated valve is all it would have taken. I dunno....
 
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