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Renegade *******
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have one small cabin at the retreat club I belong to but I am wanting to add another. I was thinking about doing all poured concrete as a means of construction to make it more or less "bomb proof". Thought about a 20X16 size main level on top of a 32X16 basement that walks out on one end and has a safe room built in on the other. Would have the roof of the safe room be the back porch as camo if you will. Any other ideas on how to build a fire proof house that allows for good defense?
 

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Renegade *******
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The club is a group of people who are like minded and each person is a owner of two deeds one for a deeded lot and the other is deeded rights of use to community property. I bought a higher membership because I wanted room for a couple of cabins to support more than just myself. I wanted room to bring my dad and bother in the event something went down. Below are two videos which will give you some idea of what kind of people would like that property.

Bugout Bag Gear and Info for the Survivalist and for Survivalism Geocaching and More
Survivalist Retreat Property and Club Land for Sale in Kentucky Daniel Boone National Forest Area.
 

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Will shipping containers work? They are thick steel, cheap, stackable, and come in lengths from 20 to 40 feet. I would actually like to bury a forty footer, with a twenty footer on end next to it for a stair well. For burial, some reinforcement would have to be done.
 

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Watchin tha world go by
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then add a dirt berm around tha container area, sod it for camouflage and it looks like a hill

its defensible - offers reasonable protection from direct fire, and anything that can penetrate it has tracks and yer in trouble anyway.
 

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Adaptable.
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check out the $50 and up underground house book. I wouldn't build exactly like him, but he has some good ideas on retainers and waterproofing.
 

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Renegade *******
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I want concrete mainly because I can have it look like a regular cabin which won't draw attention and fits the area, but what's under neath the skinning will be hell to break through or burn down. I will add shutters made as follows for you not so new to armor, 1/4inch strapping for a frame, 1/4 inch plat for outside layer, sheet of 1/2 rubber, sheet of 1/4 inch steel, 1/2inch sheet polycarbonate, sheet of 1/4inch steel, sheet of 1/2 inch rubber, sheet of 1/4 steel total thickness of 2.5 inches and will stop about anything short of 50cal and even then it's not a clear shot through under most conditions. We mocked some up at the range over the summer for testing, they worked great and they stopped everything we could throw at them.
 

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audentes fortuna iuvat
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Dome homes are a great way to go and are fire, tornado, hurricane proof. One had a direct lightning strike with almost no damage. A guy near me in Pensacola has one and him and the local news reporter rode out hurricane Ivan while all the homes around him were completely destroyed. This link has info about that house and others. They are energy efficent and basically bulletproof. I'm thinking about this for my new house.


http://static.monolithic.com/gallery/homes/index.html
 

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Apocaloptimist
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Why not cinder block? My aunt owns a pre-WWII duplex that is made entire of cinder blocks and it is pretty bomb-proof. I would think it would be cheaper to build as well.
 

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Why not cinder block? My aunt owns a pre-WWII duplex that is made entire of cinder blocks and it is pretty bomb-proof. I would think it would be cheaper to build as well.
I agree with clovisman, I'm a rebar detailer (I design the steel that goes inside concrete or masonry block & I think you'll have an easier and cheaper time with block. Also you can bring up block and 20' sticks of bar on you truck, no need to a big cement truck, ect.

Here is one Idea.
http://americanbombshelter.com/manuals/ASR-bomb-fallout-shelter-kit.pdf

Also if you do go with concrete you don't need to go with 6000psi concrete, you need the structure to be some what flexable to absorabe the bomb blast. There is a good manual put out by the State department on this:
Certification Standards Forced Entry and Ballistic Resistance of Structural Systems - SD-STD-01.01, Revision G (Amended) April 30, 1993. It tells you how the government builds it own bomd shelters. It you can not find it contact me and I'll scan my copy and send it to you. If you have any Question please feel free to ask, working with this stuff is what I do.
 

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then add a dirt berm around tha container area, sod it for camouflage and it looks like a hill

its defensible - offers reasonable protection from direct fire, and anything that can penetrate it has tracks and yer in trouble anyway.

Containers would be good, for a cache as long as you sealed the inside with plastic (containers rust wrather easily) I wouldn't want to live in it though. And, if you're trying to hide, the FLEER on HH-60's and AH-64's can look right thru a "dirt burm". It would be better to build a small house, with a cinderblock basement (you can rebar, and pour contrete in the cinder). Lined with tar paper, and plastic. That way, your basement affords you all the protection you need. Yet, your sort of hiding out, in plain view....so to speak. If you don't look like you're doing anything of interest. no one will take any interest in you.
 

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Was going with 6000psi plus fiber and rebar plus mesh. You can shoot through concrete blocks. but not 10inch.
Thats great but I hope that cost is no object, because to do a pour with 6000 psi and Fiber plus rebar (no need to add mesh it's redundent, just space the rebar @ 6" o.c.) this will cost a small fortune. If you make the bunker the basement then the backfill will stop any bullet penetration and you can use 12" thick CMU block for the main floor and fill all the cells solid with grout. No forming needed then place #6 or larger reinforcing @ 8" o.c. and solid grout then your looking @ 4000psi min probably (with all the rebar) close to 5000 or 6000. It will be almost as strong as you 6000psi + all the addtives for 1/2 the cost. But thats just my suggestion.
 

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Containers would be good, for a cache as long as you sealed the inside with plastic (containers rust wrather easily) I wouldn't want to live in it though. And, if you're trying to hide, the FLEER on HH-60's and AH-64's can look right thru a "dirt burm". It would be better to build a small house, with a cinderblock basement (you can rebar, and pour contrete in the cinder). Lined with tar paper, and plastic. That way, your basement affords you all the protection you need. Yet, your sort of hiding out, in plain view....so to speak. If you don't look like you're doing anything of interest. no one will take any interest in you.
Its FLIR (forward looking infrared), and it can only measure emitted or reflected infrared energy (surface only), they don't look "through" anything, only measure changes in surface temp.
 

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If you build the whole thing out of Insulated Concrete Forms you can get the strength you're looking for and energy efficiency to boot. Apply whatever surface you want on the outside and no one will ever know what's underneath, it can look like a tar paper shack, a log cabin or a field stone cottage.
 

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This is not to diminish the idea of a retreat cabin, its just for consideration if SHTF for sure. A fortress is nothing more than a fancy coffin. Its been proved over thousands of years. Great for an immediate place to get out of town quick where you have the goodies cached but not for long term hideout and certainly no good once discovered.

Lots of territory I know between get out of town and a long term hideout so its just an open though.

Scotty
 
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