The last time I took my Yugo Sks out it wouldn't cycle, I would have to pull the bolt back each time i fired. I took it apart and cleaned it real good, and it still won't cycle. Anyone know how to remedy this problem? Thanks
Its a yugo model. The bolt does not come back after the fired round. Only when I pull it back it will eject the case.
When I got the gun, the gas adjust know was stuck, but i was able to oil it and work it get it moving, Iv'e shot it while adjusted diffenent positions with no change. Which way should it be adjusted properly.
The magazine is stock 10 rd metal.
I think it's assebled properly, iv'e watched some videos and took it apart, cleaned it, oiled and reassabled it.
I didn't take the bolt compleatly apart, just spayed down w/ gun scrubber. Maybe it could be a problem in the bolt???
This is the manual for the SKS, your model may be slightly different.
If I had to really guess it sounds like one of two things. Either the gas port leading from the barrel to the gas piston is plugged, or the gas block knob is on the wrong setting. I have forgotten the settings, but will look for you in a few.....
lube all contact points. I will tell you now that it is most likily the gas tube so take some advil or ib profin...your going to need it.
have you removed all cosmoliene? check to make sure the switch on the gas block is in the down or angled posistion.
remove the recoil spring and cycle the bolt by hand with rounds in it. DO NOT SHOOT IT! just cycle the bolt back and forth watching ejection and get a feel for any stickage and make sure it is ejecting properly.
make sure the recoil spring is insirted spirel end first.
polish the bolt face to get rid of laqure and residue build up. also polish the chamber with some CLP or Bore Shine (any gun cleaning solvent will work) and a 410 shotgun brush attached to a drill. do the same with the gas tube.
Another big problem is the gas tube, gas rod, and operating rod. make sure the op. rod and spring is clean and free moving. then tape off the outside joint between the gas tube and gas block with some masking tape and toilet paper, fire a round and check for burn marks or other signs of gas leaking. also clean the gas port which is the little hole in the barrel. To get to it take the gas tube off, put the selector switch in the up position pull up and the switch and a small spring will come out. then take the gas valve out. from there you can access the gas port. clean it with a small pick and brush(.22 or .17 size).
There are apparently many problems with yugo rifles, I think that for the price selling and re-buying may be a viable option in this case. To replace the entire gas block is about 70 bucks plus labor (in most cases it is a pita to do). Cost of the rifle isn't much more........
If there is burn marks you might have to order a new gas tube and gas valve. The bad thing about sks's is that they dont work real well when trading parts, for the most part there unique.
CNC worrior makes excelent replacment parts for the sks. google CNC Worrior and you should be able to find it, if not shoot me a pm. As far as a new gas tube, the only one worth a crap is th Tapco. Its $50 USD, its wise to go ahead and spent another 20 and get the new tapco gas rod too. that way you'll have a for sure air-tight fit.
I had the same problem with mine, so like Survival Healper said, it may be wise to just buy another. i bought mine for 170 used.
so far i have-
new gas block-$25
new gas tube & rod-$70
barrel chop & re-crown at 17.5"-$30
optics and other accessories-over $200
thats $615 in a used sks. call me crazy, maby i am. i plan on getting a brand new one soon and transfure everything over. The sks can be a very formitable weapon if you get a good one and build it right. it wil never be a 500 yrd tack driver but at 150-200 yrds i can hit a cinderblock. that to me is pritty darn good!
Yeah its the grenade launcher tube. Switch up the setting and it should work fine. It happened to mine... I felt like an Idiot at the gunsmith when he switched up the grenade launcher button and it worked!!
i have tried it with the gas button in all positions, thats the first thing i tried. I did take it back apart, and removed the gas block an it is really pitted right near the hole, I think im gonna try beadblasting it at work, along with the bolt, gas valve. I know it would probably take the blueing off the gas block, but at least it will take away the pitting and gunk, keep it oiled, and i could always buy a new one.