Survivalist Forum banner

Secure the back door?

4.7K views 35 replies 24 participants last post by  Ricekila  
#1 ·
Ok, our foundation of our house has shifted since the drought and now the back door doesn't shut the way it should. The latch doesn't match up with the hole in the door frame so therefore, all one has to do is either push or pull the door and it swings wide open.
My question is how can I make (or purchase) a "bar" that can go across the door and latch it sorta of like a brace? I'm not sure if I'm explaining this very clear or not but if you can understand my lack of ability of describing this and can offer any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,
JK.
 
#3 ·
Not being there to see it I can only offer some sugestions from my building maintenance experience. I worked on lots of commercial doors and closers. It sounds like the strike plate is not allowing the latch into the door frame. If it has dropped just a little or been raised up just a little what you may can do is unscrew the brass plate from the door frame and raise it or lower it some and install the screws in the new location if it can be done with clean new holes. If not it may be possible to file with a file the opening in the brass to allow the door to latch. I would slowly close the door and see where the door latch is touching the brass and see which way it needs to be moved.
If you are wanting to install a bar accross the door you can go to a building center and get some brackets that install on the door and door frame to allow a bar to secure the door. Hope this helps, feel free to ask any more question you have.
 
#20 ·
As a FF that has forced many, MANY doors, I would completely disagree with this statement.
the locks like in hotels, the solid brass ones, are much, much better than the old chain locks, and be sure to use the longest screws allowed, and while you're at it, put the longest screws available in your hinges, the factory are usually to short, can't tell you how many doors i've "blown off the hinges":thumb:
 
#11 ·
A dermel tool would work good to ream out the jam after the striker plate has been removed. I use an electric die grinder.
The distance between the door and the jam is another thing to check. If there is too much gap between the door and jam, remove the inside casing (trim) and use shims to move the jam.
The striker plate may need to be moved forward or back for a proper fit.
When reinstalling striker plate after it is in the right location, use deck screws that will go through the jam and into the stud.

You may want to install a dead bolt.
 
#16 ·
When mine did that, I took the striker plate of and filled all holes with wood filler. After it had dried completely, I drilled a new hole to match the lock thingy (the part that moves when you turn the knob), marked the new hole to mount the striker plate, match drilled them and the door was good as new.

Had to work the dead bolt a little, but a Dremel did that nicely.

WW

shoot straight - stay safe
 
#17 ·
FWIW anytime I work on a doorway I take a dab of wood glue on a golf tee or matchstick and pound it into the old screw holes, then cut and snap them off. this keeps the screws from getting loose and allows the hinges/plates to be relocated easier HTH