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Layman
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Discussion Starter #1
i really like the jframe platform. but they seem to be a little hard for me to shoot accurately. any advice on training?

I got some snap caps and I think I have a good feel for the trigger. I can't seem to hit what I'm aiming at though :D:
 

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Start up the rotors
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i really like the jframe platform. but they seem to be a little hard for me to shoot accurately. any advice on training?

I got some snap caps and I think I have a good feel for the trigger. I can't seem to hit what I'm aiming at though :D:
What pistol are you shooting?
What rounds are you training with?
What rounds do you want to carry?
How often are you training?
How are you training?
 
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reluctant sinner
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Has it been slick up? Does it fit good in your hand - I had to buy the biggest set of Packmayr they made to get it to fit my hand, otherwise I had to lay my left thumb along the back strap to make the factory grip large enough for me to get a good hold on it.

Focus on the front sight, the notch and target will be fuzzier.

Do you shoot any pistol well? Its much easier to learn to shoot well with a longer barrel - longer sight radius. Hard to figure out what you are doing wrong when the sights are close together.
 

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Si vis pacem, para bellum
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At what range?

Js are more of a close in "use the force", get off of me choice for the majority of people. Rare are the people who can manage to pop balloons at 1000 yards, Bob Munden, with one.
 

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Why do you ask? 2 Dogs!
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i really like the jframe platform. but they seem to be a little hard for me to shoot accurately. any advice on training?

I got some snap caps and I think I have a good feel for the trigger. I can't seem to hit what I'm aiming at though :D:
I'll get flamed for this but if it's a snub nose, don't aim, just point and shoot

Learn to point the weapon to where your eyes are looking...this takes practice. I call it snap shooting although there are many names for this style of shooting

Is it a magnum or a Special? I've got a magnum and I either shoot Specials or 38+P's out of mine due to muzzle blast and recoil

If you want to take "aimed" shots, get one with a longer barrel

A snub is an up close and personal type of gun

Practice, Practice, Practice
 

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What hell, pay attention
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Do you have any other revolvers?

I think the J frames are something you do better to "learn down to" as opposed to starting out with. If you cant shoot a full sized revolver fairly well, DAO, this isnt going to be any easier.

In a configuration thats best for carrying them (assuming thats why you have it), they really arent much fun to shoot, and that tends to make them a challenge to practice with on a regular basis, as you should.

As with anything, getting good with it, is all about regular practice, practice, practice.

If youre going to put big, oversized grips on them to make them more shootable, might as well just get a bigger, easier to shoot gun, and gain a round or two to boot.

Im not a fan of downloading them for practice and then carrying something else in them. I practice with loads that are close to the same as what I carry. You dont need special bullets or loads, but what you do need, is a reasonably effective round that has a good track record, and to be able to shoot well with what you carry.

While I agree that point shooting should be a part of any skill set, I dont think its something you start out with. Much, if not most of what you need to point shoot, comes from things learned and ingrained from sighted shooting.

You do need both skills, and you need to be able to shoot with either, when the need arises, and without thinking about which its going to be.
 

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Most important with the small J-frames is having grips which fit you. If max concealability is important you might just try adding a Tyler T-grip adapter to the service stocks. On mine I also use a pair of Gearward Ranger Bands to increase the grip width and diameter at the top of the grip frame. This help mitigate the "sting" shooting full-charge loads in my Airweight Model 37, which I often carry as a backup.

But I prefer a standard-sized, six-shot K-frame as being more manageable. Having a real actual 2-inch barrel with a snug cylinder gap of 0.004-0.005" provides about +30-40 fps which actually does make a difference in better expansion of JHP loads than a shorter 1-7/8" J-frame, having a larger cylinder gap as much as 0.008", which they are commonly building now.
 

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I'll get flamed for this but if it's a snub nose, don't aim, just point and shoot

Learn to point the weapon to where your eyes are looking...this takes practice. I call it snap shooting although there are many names for this style of shooting

Is it a magnum or a Special? I've got a magnum and I either shoot Specials or 38+P's out of mine due to muzzle blast and recoil

If you want to take "aimed" shots, get one with a longer barrel

A snub is an up close and personal type of gun

Practice, Practice, Practice
THIS!

Almost all shootings are at feet, not yards. For this kind of shooting, look at what Jim Cirilo of the NYPD stakeout squad wrote. He advocated both just using the profile of the gun to ain fast at close range, and a technique of shooting out of the notch. Just using the front sight like a shotgun bead and point shooting at the target.

Unlike a lot of the gun magazine gurus that are self promoting shams, Cirillo had a long career in the NYPD and is documented as surviving many shootouts with criminals, putting 11 of them under the daisies.

His techniques must have worked for him as he lived through it all. His opponents didn't.
 

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J frames are an experts weapon. They are not easy to shoot well.

When I learned how to shoot DA revolver I would practice 100 dry fires in the morning, 100 at bedtime...and fired 500 rounds a week in IPSC practice and I did this for three years.

Thats where I would start if you want to get really good with a revolver.
 

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Plays best, alone
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Get some 148 grain wadcutters and practice with those before moving up to 158 grainers Get some decent grips, if you keep the little wooden grips get a Tyler T grip adapter for it.

Looks like this. I like them better than the rubber ones.
 

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Layman
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Discussion Starter #11
I'll get flamed for this but if it's a snub nose, don't aim, just point and shoot

Learn to point the weapon to where your eyes are looking...this takes practice. I call it snap shooting although there are many names for this style of shooting

Is it a magnum or a Special? I've got a magnum and I either shoot Specials or 38+P's out of mine due to muzzle blast and recoil

If you want to take "aimed" shots, get one with a longer barrel

A snub is an up close and personal type of gun

Practice, Practice, Practice
I call it instinctive shooting. I've never considered training and learning this technique though. I always though it was some cool hand/eye coordination trick.

I am shooting a special +p, I figured I wouldn't even bother with a magnum.
the price for the little j frame 38 specials is pretty crazy for what you get.

I do know I can shoot a 642 pretty dang accurately with a laser.
But I want to learn shooting with the sights, at least to about 15-20 yards.
 

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Layman
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Discussion Starter #12
At what range?

Js are more of a close in "use the force", get off of me choice for the majority of people. Rare are the people who can manage to pop balloons at 1000 yards, Bob Munden, with one.
i would like to shoot 1000 yards but I would be content with 15-20 yards.
 

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i would like to shoot 1000 yards but I would be content with 15-20 yards.
All it takes is practice. When you squeeze off a round, try and feel via the trigger when the hammer stages. Once you get the hang of that you'll be able to shoot DA almost as accurately as SA.

BTW, talking 15-20 yards not 1,000. :D:
 

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Most of the posts above nave nailed it. A J frame is a DEFENSIVE gun. You usually don't have to shoot to defend yourself from someone 25 yards away. More practice is always better, but think 10y or less. The guys on Utube banging target after target usually never tell you HOW FAR they are shooting. Camera distances are decieving.

Ammo selection is also a problem with short barrels. Hollow points and other whiz bang ammunition are questionable with short barrel velocities. Probably the most reliable option is wadcutter ammo. I reload practice wadcutters to the 700fps range to save wear and tear on the delicate gun and CARRY wadcutters loaded a bit faster. If you live in a place where people hate guns you may not want to carry reloaded ammo. I'm pretty sure a jury I may have to face around here wouldn't be fooled by lawyer talk.
 

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About point shooting. Try it you might be surprised at how well it works AT SHORT RANGE.
Shoot at a full size target at across the room distances.

We used to do very realistic shooting scenerios for LE training. Our instructors said that oftentimes in stress shootings the return rounds fired at someone with a gun land very close to the bad guys gun because of that is the thing you see and are concentrating on.

I was in a scenerio(shooting airsoft guns) where I had my left hand on a shotgun barrel that a guy was trying to shoot me with. At the same time his partner drew a handgun. I shot a gun I was unfamiliar with at across the room distance and hit him three times fast from the hip. The rounds hit right around the gun he was drawing.
 

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Why do you ask? 2 Dogs!
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I call it instinctive shooting. I've never considered training and learning this technique though. I always though it was some cool hand/eye coordination trick.

I am shooting a special +p, I figured I wouldn't even bother with a magnum.
the price for the little j frame 38 specials is pretty crazy for what you get.

I do know I can shoot a 642 pretty dang accurately with a laser.
But I want to learn shooting with the sights, at least to about 15-20 yards.
Practice at home:

Pick a target (anything at any range) close your eyes, bring your gun into shooting position, then open your eyes. Is it on target? Work on that (make sure the gun is unloaded:D:)

At the range:

Look only at your target, not the gun, then fire, walking the bullets to where your eyes are looking

Learn to do this with one hand

Keep both eyes open always regardless whether it's aimed or not and always look at your target, pretend your eyes are laser beams

When shooting 2 handed(aimed), I bring the gun up where the front sight just breaks my line of sight to the target-Both eyes open

People will tell you to focus on the front sight, while that may be great for shooting paper, I always focus on the target and let that gun follow your eyes whether it's aimed or not

Step into your shots, meaning one foot in front the other with a good amount of weight on the front but be somewhat balanced

Handguns are made to follow the point of your finger. You can also practice with your finger too

These are just my opinions, different people shoot differently
 
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What hell, pay attention
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"Banging targets" is sort of the point, regardless the distance. You need to be able to do it without thinking about doing it, and you need to be able to do it quickly and repetitively, and make good "hits".

They don't have to be tight little groups, and that's actually not desirable here. If that's what you're trying to do, you're likely shooting to slow. Shooting quickly AND making good hits where you were looking when the gun went off is the goal here. And you need to practice shooting like that.

You also need to learn to "stroke" the trigger, not just stage it. While staging can be of use in some instances, and does work, its more of a target technique. The difference with stroking the trigger is, you don't stop. You can vary the speed of the stroke, but you don't hesitate/stop.

If you're going to insist on wadcutters, I'd make your reloads SWC's. They are a lot easier to get in the gun with a speed loader, especially under some stress. SWC's are just a wadcutter with a "point" too. ;)
 

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"

You also need to learn to "stroke" the trigger, not just stage it. While staging can be of use in some instances, and does work, its more of a target technique. The difference with stroking the trigger is, you don't stop. You can vary the speed of the stroke, but you don't hesitate/stop.

)
I saw a guy on Utube telling how he would STAGE the trigger. WRONG. If you have time to STAGE the trigger why not just kock the gun. Also you are more accurate with just a long smooth pull. The sights will wobble but not as much as if you try to make the gun go off when the sights look good.
 

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Point and shoot is treating the handgun as an extension of the arm and hand. I am trying to think of a way to practice without firing. Maybe a chambered laser that I activate after pointing or a mounted laser that I activate after dry firing.
 
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