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Hooligan on Holiday
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Never try to force a primer into the primer pocket by hitting the handle in the down position :eek: needless to say I had to throw away my underware that night. I guess I just did not have the pocket cleaned out properly or maybe had a burr, forced the press down and still need just a little more to be seated in all the way, gave it a quick snap and BOOM. It was a 223, fortunately I did not get injured.
Also, I always stop about ever 10 or 20 rounds and check my bullet seating depth with a caliper just as an overkill QC operation.
 

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Im liable to crash the server posting everything I have complied. But maybe I can post a few dozen loads I like. I think its a pretty good idea as it can open someones eyes to a "recipe" they would have never thought of otherwise or a bullet you were curious about but never got around to trying...Might prove to be really helpfull to those of us who reload and even those who are considering changing to a different factory load.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What I started doing, I measured the length of the bullet for every brand name I used for reloading.

Lets say that the Sierra 9mm JHP measures .507 long. According to my notes, my load for that bullet has an over all length (OAL) of 1.060, 6.0 grains unique with a winchester small pistol primer.

Then lets say that I pick up a different brand of bullets, whos bullet length is .005 longer then the sierra. To keep the compression of the powder the same, I will add .005 to the OAL of the round. This keeps the powder compression the same, by moving the extra bullet length to the OAL of the round. This will not work for all rounds or bullets. The round might be so long it may not let the bolt close. So be careful when using this tip!! Also, if you know the OAL of the bullet, if the company changed the round, even by a few thousands, you will know it, and change your OAL to compensate.

I then back off a grain or so, load a few rounds then send them through the chronograph. Check the case for excessive pressure and compare the rounds FPS against other rounds of that same bullet weight and caliber.


Winchester 9mm 115 grain FMJ
OAL of the round - 1.152
Bullet OAL- .598
6.0 Grains of unique
Winchester small pistol primer
This load gives about 1150 FPS muzzle velocity. Notice the 6.0 grains, that gives 1,000 rounds per pound of powder. The winchester bullet was bought in bulk, 2,000 - 5,000 rounds at a time. Midway USA used to have a box 5,000 bullets of 9mm, but the last time I went to midways page I did not see it listed. This is one of my favorite 9mm loads.

9mm Sierra 115 gr. JHP
Round OAL - 1.060
Bullet OAL - .507
6.1 grains unique
Winchester small pistol primers

9mm 115 gr Speer bullets

Round OAL - 1.120
Bullet OAL - ?
6.0 grains unique
winchester small pistol primers

9mm Hornady 90 grain HP
Round OAL - 1.010
Bullet OAL - ?
7.0 grains unique
Winchester small pistol primer
My notes say this is a maximum load, so start low and work up.

38 special Speer bullets:
125 jhp
Round OAL - 1.455
Bullet OAL - .539
6.0 grains of unique
Winchester small pistol primers
This is a lite hitting target round.

357 Magnum Speer Bullets

125 JHP
Round OAL -1.580
Bullet OAL - .539
12.6 grains blue dot
Winchester small pistol magnum primers
My notes say do not exceed 12.6 grains blue dot. When I was working up this load, I noted that I thought this was about max.

357 magnum Hornady bullets
180 grain JTC-SIL
Round OAL - 1.580
Bullet OAL - .?
9.5 grains blue dot
When I working this load up - when I went over 9.5 grains, the case showed signs of excessive pressure. The spent rounds had to be tapped out of the revolver. Start well below 9.5 grains on this load, then work up.

45 ACP Speer bullets
200 grain HP
Round OAL - 1.155
Bullet OAL - .554
6.0 grains unique
Winchester large pistol primers
My notes say that when I was working this load up, I thought that 6.0 grains unique was max. So start low and work up.

45 ACP Hornady XTP
200 grain HP
Round OAL - 1.200
Bullet OAL - .563
6.2 grains unique
winchester large pistol primers
My notes say this load compares to factory.

All these loads should be considered maximum, start low and work your way up. The pistols that were used to work up these loads are:
Beretta 9mm
Ruger P89
Ruger P90
S&W Model 66 combat magnum
 

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Discussion Starter #10
RCBS Rock Chucker press for single stage and a rcbs piggyback for progressive. During a divorce I went through a few years ago, I lost my Piggyback and uniflow but I still have everything else.

All the dies are RCBS as well.

One charge thrower I use for single stage is a Lyman.

A reloading buddy of mine has a Lee 9mm progressive press. It worked pretty good.

Together, the RCBS piggyback and the Lee side by side, we were able to reload over 1,000 rounds of 9mm in an hour.
 

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A side note, IF I remember correctly, the 125 grn .357 (12.6 powder)was for a desert eagle pistol, this was one of my rounds, do NOT put this thru a standard pistol. This might not be it, but I think it is. If anyone owns / shoots a desert eagle they know that standard factory loads sometimes will not cycle an eagle, hence the larger charge.
 

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My favorite well most useful reloading component is a Hard cast .309 110 gr round nose lead bullet that I use in making up a reduced load plinker round in everyting for 7.62x39 to 3006 squirrel poppers and even a 7.62x25 pistol round. I can even load up a round using the bullet to cycle a SKS as a last defense load. Buying in 500 bulk packs it maked for an affordable and versitile bullet.
 

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Here's my safety Sir
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Brain power needed ft lbs of energy

I can not find my old note book with Calculating ft/lbs of energy in it. If any of you recall see if I got the formula correct

FPS (velocity) squared multiply by bullet weigth (gr) divided by 450,400= ft lbs

took the chronograph and some reloads to the range yesterday. 10 round string average FPS 2536 bullet weight 165 gr.

2536 squarded = 6431296 X 165 = 10611638 divided by 450,400 = 23560475 which =2356 fl lbs of energy (at the muzzle)
 

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Here's my safety Sir
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I'm going to be going through a number of boxes of brass I have during the next couple of weeks. I will probable have a couple hundred 9mm, 40 cal and possible some 308 brass that I will net be using. If anyone is interested and wants to pay the shipping it's yours. Just let me know which cal you might want. (sorry only will ship in the US)
 
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I recently got a Enifeld revolver 38/200 or 38 S&W. for ammo I found a partial box of 38 S&W and using some tools from a Lee Classic loader make up some rounds using 38 special wad cutters and Bullseye powder. I got the revolver of $35 bucks and it is in usable condition. But I really am not going to put it into the line. It is tankers model Double action only. With a full box of 50 I paid $5 for the 32 loaded rounds and 18 brasses. I have a livetime supply since I have 1000's of cast 148 gr wadcutters. Being a breaktop though rugged and battle tested I perfer loading up a target light load.
 

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The Moonpie's reloading secrets.....................

Cast bullets work great in rifles.

Automate where ever you can.
Powered trimmers and progressive loaders are your friends.

No need for max power in a load.
If you need more power go to a larger caliber.

NOTHING replaces range time.

Buy in bulk.

80% of the work in reloading is brass prep.

:D
 

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Magnum Primers Question

I have a couple of questions regarding magnum primers.

Are magnum primers to be used only in magnum cartridges?

If not, then in which cartridges/calibres can they be used instead of the normal primers?
Any help greatly apreciated :)
 

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About magnum primers, I never use em unless the published load calls for em. I've had about seven or eight hundred large rifle magnums sitting around gathering dust (in the box of course) because I don't load anything anymore that specifically calls for em. I think I might have loads that I can use em for with my 30-06 but have no need to. That rifle already has it's favorite load all worked out.

Generally speaking, the use of the word "Magnum", when regarding cartridges, is a marketing tool. Just like belted cases that don't need the belt to headspace.
 

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First post on here, just found the forum while watching YouTube videos...

Always use a reloading manual for safe starting point and work up your loads from there.

Seating depths are not listed as this will vary from rifle to rifle. I like to play around with seating depth to see what works best for that particular rifle. My 22-250 likes to be seated just off the lands and my 300 wm likes to be seated just into the lands.

Reloading can save you a little money and I have found that when done in a very precise manor it can have greatly increase rifle accuracy.

Rifles I load for include:

Rem 700 VSF 22-250

50grn nosler ballistic tip
35.5 grn benchmark powder
WLR primers
Winchester brass

60grn Berger VLD
38grn H380
WLR primers
Winchester brass


Rem 700 Sendero 300 win mag

Long range (500-1000 yards)
210 Berger VLD
71.5 grn RE-22
WLRM primers
Lapua brass

180 grn Sierra Spitzer
76.1 grn RE-22
WLRM primers
Lapua brass


Rem 700 LVSF 7mm-08

120 grn Nosler Ballistic Tip
43.5 grn IMR-4350
WLM primers
Winchester Brass
 
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