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Rebuilding a Coleman Camp Stove

16K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  Gallo Pazzesco  
#1 ·
Has anyone had any experience rebuilding a Coleman Camp Stove? I'm talking about one of the older two burner types that used to be so popular.

I have one that is 1960s vintage I bought at a garage sale for ten bucks. It is in excellent shape body wise, it still looks great. But it will not fire. I'm not sure if the injectors, or whatever they, are stopped-up, or if the pump gasket o-ring is so old it is not putting enough pressure in the tank to pump fuel through or whatever.

I can't get it to fire.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

When these old stoves are working, they are great little emergency stoves and camping stoves.
 
#2 ·
You can buy piston kits for the fuel tank pumps most anywhere that sells Coleman goods. They are simple to repaid and simple to keep working. I have rebuilt a couple of lanterns and a stove or two as well. If I recall correctly I soaked the new piston seals, which are leather, in transmission fluid. Someone will correct this one way or the other for us.

Good luck!
 
#4 ·
Neets Oil for the Plunger Cup

A regular maintenance chore for the stoves and lanterns is "oiling" the leather cup that is attached to the pressure pump plunger ......

The cups dry up and shrink, loosing contact with the sides of the plunger well ..... neets oil for the boots and that baseball mitt is the best answer .......

Instead of buying parts its much cheaper to buy extra stoves and lanterns from garage sales ..... I buy banged up/rusty stuff for $1 ...... keep the globes, tanks, covers ect for the parts
 
#6 ·
I think I'm about to get primitive with this thing and just start tearing it down. Doesn't look like it has too many parts.

I'm probably still harboring some adolescent fear of camping with my Dad and Grandfather and then telling me something along the lines of being careful or these bad boys will catch fire and explode like an H-bomb or something. You know, nothing major - just one of those things that scars you mentally for life.
 
#8 ·
See, I thought about that but I wanted to keep this stove on gas. I've already got plenty of propane stoves, too many actually, all shapes and sizes. I need more fuel variety in my life.
 
#11 ·
Outstanding! Thank you very much men! It is much appreciated and oldtownyucca I am going to take you up on that offer. Thank you. :)
 
#12 ·
If you are very careful you can remove the orface at the tip and be careful of the wire end inside attached to the valve shaft.don't bend it it will break off then your done .
Be very kind to it and slide the generator coil ot and clean it up . Because the valve usually is sealed with a packing gland , I would not recomend a novice to remove the valve shaft . just be really careful drawing the generator out and putting it back not hitting the needle. if the needle is missing that is why it is clogged .
The orface is clogged and very gently soak it in gas, sometimes continued soaking will loosten things up enough to blow it out, if not let it soak while you find the smallest wire posable. needles and pins are too big. and you don't want to ruin the orface making it bigger either.
On the pump,
, there are two models one has a hole in the center of the plunger head one does not . If there is a hole , put your finger over it as you pump and as you raise it move your finger away, I've developed a tetneque through the years almost with out thinking about it . kind of holding you fingers loosly around the pump head.
Before you even lite it have some spoap suds there to check the seals and pump assyembly,especially the orface (asyembled of course) if they leak they will leak gas fumes as well .
If there is any flame DO NoT atempt to let off the pressure on the cap.
unless of course you are suicidal .
hold you hand over each burner til you are convinced there is no flame going , never rush it. small flames can linger if the seal is not perfect .
It is not necessary to let off the pressure unless you are transporting it in your car .
As the generator cools the pressure will dicipate to some degree .
Ideally while breaking camp I seperate the tank asyembly from the stove unit and walk where it is safe and NO other fires around period, gas fumes travel at ground level .
then I let of remaining pressure at the fill cap tank elevated at that end. be sure it is closed good and finish packing .
 
#13 ·
Thanks again. All good stuff! I am going to start the project this weekend and I am using all the info in this thread to get-er done Men. Muchos gratzeeass!
 
#14 ·
use denatured alcohol in the tank to clean up the varnish from old gas being left in there, I usually do this every year at end of season before storage anyway. what you do is dump out any gas there is and fill tank with alcohol and let it set, kinda recondition the inside of the tank this way. then discard the alcohol. here is a pretty good youtube vid on cleaning up an old stove on the cheap http://www.youtube.com/user/JRKFamilyOutdoors#p/a/u/2/ZwO38fX_lT4
 
#15 ·
Good stuff ... I am going to give that a try. I'll pick up some denatured alcohol tomorrow westernkansas, thanks. :)
 
#17 ·
I have one of that vintage and had problems with it becuase I replaced the old pump with a new one that had a rubber gasket. I found the problem was that becuase the old pump piston had a leather gasket that was lubed with motor oil to keep the seal from cracking. I replaced the rubber gasket on every camping trip about 5 times in a row and the rubber would go bad in the pump gasket from the old motor oil. After a good cleaning It worked fine and had fantastic pressure.

You might try looking for a source for the old leather gaskets that stove went a long time on that old leather.
 
#19 ·
That is a seriously good site - complete with detailed pictures and everything!

oldtownyucca, yours is excellent too and I appreciate it very much.

I oughta be able to pull this off. Pictures make it easier for old guys like me. :eek::