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Hi everyone,
So I have been thinking of ways to better protect myself inside my second story apartment. I plan to bug in (Shelter in place) if anything bad happens and only bug out if my home is compromised (Burning, Collapsing, etc) as I don't really have any other place to go. I have a 3 months supply of food and water. I managed to get a German Shepherd although I live upstairs, along with 4 security cameras ( 3 Inside and 1 watching front door and steps leading up) Not to mention my various firearms and ammunition for protection.

I wanted to know what the survival community thinks of Razor wire (50' for $25 on Amazon) and if it would be smart to deploy it leading up my steps and railing to completely block access to my front door (only one door entryway)
Now before anyone says its important to have an escape route, I have two. one being my balcony and the other being my bedroom window. And yes I have a sturdy rope ladder for both that can be picked up and put down.

Someone may mention that it would show that I have something of value. At this point im sure most of my neighbors know im on the prepared side of things as I have talked to them about the need to be prepared for common disasters and they like to observe everything I do. (Hard to pack a 7gal Aquatainer of water up the steps and a box of 12 MREs without someone noticing even at night)

Any Ideas are always welcome and instructive criticism is also welcomed.
 

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Well;

We too lived in an apartment for years and we too had food , water etc. As you state. We wondered how we could fortify, etc. Mainly from the inside , maybe Nails in straps under your mat (but only after everything breaks down).

As far as the razor wire, as long as it does not interfere with others that have too access the biulding? Or are you going too take over your whole biulding?

I am glad we no longer live in the apartment and have gotten out because as you said everyone watch some you.

Remember, your upstairs or downstairs neighbor good have gang friends, or burn up yours and Thier apartments, just some of the worry so we had.

Catdog and Sleepyturtle
 

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You will be definitely be putting a sign up that there is someone and something being protected. Make the stairs look unsafe, remove a section or block them with construction materials that make it look like the upper stairs collapsed inward. Maybe use some type of deadfall that would reduce the desire to go up the stairs.

Things like that might produce better results. Especially if the building in that area looks damaged.
 

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Remember the stairs being secured in the apartment building in 28 Days Later, sheets of plywood so there's no traction, then a gated access at the top. Secure some razor wire on the slick surface so the sappers will fall into it.
The thing to remember about barricades is they can't be unattended. they will slow the approach but they will be breached eventually.
 

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It's a pretty standard technique for prepared urban combat defenses in the military. It absolutely works, but it absolutely signals prepared defenders are present. So that's a double edged sword.

You need to securely anchor your wire coils at multiple points along their length to avoid someone attaching a grappling hook and pulling the obstacle down/out. Especially by means of a vehicle.



The above drawing shows wire coils strung perpendicular to the flight of stairs (with furniture as additional obstacles), but... it's quicker to anchor a coil to the bottom of the staircase and then pull it up (extending it) behind you as you retreat up the stairs. Then anchor it in at the top. This allows you to pre-position the stuff at the bottom (ready to deploy) during times of trouble until you actually need to rapidly close off the stairway. When the time comes, you just stretch the coil/s out like a big Slinky behind you.

If it's the small diameter stuff used to top industrial fencing, you'll need to run several parallel coils (stacked on top of one another) up your stairway. You need your obstacle to be at least waist high. Again, multiple anchor points (to the staircase or building) and the coils need to be attached (wired) to one another as well. Then emplace early warning noisemakers suspended within the pyramid of wire coils. Consider slopping something slippery like motor oil on the staircase treads... or even water to form ice during winter. Or BBs or marbles. Or remove steps. Complicate the obstacle. Force them to climb through entangling/cutting wire on uneven footing. And be prepared to cover the obstacle by fire.

Empty tin food cans with a top still partially connected to the can body make simple expedient noise makers. Fold the lid over a strand of razor wire and downward into the can after adding something to rattle around inside of the metal can body. You can use small stones, marbles, nuts/bolts/nails/screws, loose coins, glass fragments, or whatever else is available. An easy & effective noise maker for the can is several expended cartridge cases, which will make a distinctively loud metal on metal tinkling/echoing noise.

The folded inward can lid acts as a clamp on the wire and also retains your noise making rattling items inside of the can.

When the wire gets disturbed or tension is cut by intruders/prowlers, the cans will swing & make noise. Place the noise makers deep enough into the wire that they can't be reached by an intruder's hand. You might have to emplace them all the way up at the top of your staircase... where you can get at them to either adjust or remove (on very windy days).

If you don't have cans, glass bottles will work. Or something else at hand. Like metal wind chimes. Use your imagination...

The same general techniques can be applied to wrap around porches, balconies, roof parapets, basement step entrances, or main entrance sidewalks.
 

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A defending infantryman would just toss a frag onto you while you tried...

You can what-if things to death. The OP asked about wire obstacles. They're simple and they work. I've used wire to block staircases. Both in training and for real. No need to add couches and other flammables.
 

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If you have never dealt with razor wire you are in for quite a treat.:D: A few years ago a friend of mine was having people climb over his back fence and break in his house. After talking with him .One day I noticed a large roll of razorwire at one of the local scrapyards. I ignorantly volunteered to get him some to put on the fence to keep people from climbing over. I mean really after working with regular barbwire how bad could it be :rolleyes: The regular leather gloves and long shirt sleeves I usually wore are no match for razor wire. It had my arms and hands like hamburger very fast. :( to work with it and keep it from eating you up. You will need some very good cut and puncture proof gloves with long cuffs and some good cutters the steel leader that the razor part is attached to is some kind of hardened spring steel. I would strongly advise just going down to the local building supply store and get a roll of high tensile 4 point barbwire. A 1/4 mile spool cost around 40.00.It will be much easier to work with and the extra wire will cover more area. Should be almost as effective.
 

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If you have never dealt with razor wire you are in for quite a treat.:D: A few years ago a friend of mine was having people climb over his back fence and break in his house. After talking with him .One day I noticed a large roll of razorwire at one of the local scrapyards. I ignorantly volunteered to get him some to put on the fence to keep people from climbing over. I mean really after working with regular barbwire how bad could it be :rolleyes: The regular leather gloves and long shirt sleeves I usually wore are no match for razor wire. It had my arms and hands like hamburger very fast. :( to work with it and keep it from eating you up. You will need some very good cut and puncture proof gloves with long cuffs and some good cutters the steel leader that the razor part is attached to is some kind of hardened spring steel. I would strongly advise just going down to the local building supply store and get a roll of high tensile 4 point barbwire. A 1/4 mile spool cost around 40.00.It will be much easier to work with and the extra wire will cover more area. Should be almost as effective.
http://www.survivalistboards.com/picture.php?pictureid=68033&albumid=3937&dl=1475015893&thumb=1
 

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I think it would work but its a pretty long term solution. I can't imagine putting it up for a weekend and then trying to take it down.
 

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Obstacles can and will be breached.

An idea could be to set the obstacle on the perimeter of your building or area. Where the obstacle funnels people to an area where you can better manage defense.

So if the backside of the building has access to move through to your stairwell undetected this could be a problem since they could be at your door fairly easy without detection. But if you create an obstacle to funnel them around to your high visibility side, and only give them one route to your stairwell then you can have more standoff and a larger area of control.

Lastly, if they breach your obstacle and arrive undetected from backside you know they are up to no good and game on.

Obstacles can be more than wire. Buy a chainsaw and fell some trees or dig a hole. I thought about this topic a lot and you can get pretty creative with obstacles.
 

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I'd be afraid of barricading myself in. Only as a last resort. That sort of thing tends to beg for a burnout rather than an assault.
Some punks with a Molotov and you're toast.
JMHO
My last ditch strategy is to make them pay but I'm not in the running far or fast shape I once was. That's what factors into my decision. That is mostly what I would fear.
 

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You being a renter, you ought to look into renting a house with with a well and s little dirt for a garden.

Don't limit yourself to an apartment.
 
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