[Tenfeathers]

I haven't seen this discussed yet, just thought I would pass this along.
I have been a collector of Japanese Sumari Swords for many years and the blades are the best metal for a knife you can find anywhere.

Look around for a damaged katana sword or Tanto that is damaged on the tip or somewhere close to the tip. Then shorten it by cutting (no heat). Reshape the tip.
I have one that was made over 175 years ago and I have never sharpened it but I can fillet a fish with it.

You can order Japanese water stones to shape and sharpen from places in Japan.
If the sword is damaged most of it's collector value is gone,except in very rare circumstances.

jst a thought

 

[pocomoonskyeyes]

Not a bad idea, but I have yet to see a TRUE Japanese Samurai sword except in a museum.

 

[vicdotcom]

Question though... if you just re-shape the broken tip aren't you exposing the non-hardened part of the sword and making that the new working tip?

From what I understand, those swords have a hard edge and a softer spine. That is what keeps it from breaking. But if the tip is damaged and you reshape a new one, then that new tip would be softer than the existing edge right?


Here is a photo if what I am talking about. Notice the Temper line and how it covers the tip. If the tip is snapped and I form a new one, that temper line wouldn't go up to the tip.... I mean still a great idea. Just saw this possible downside.

 

[Tak Man II]

The steel is laminated chain anchor steel outside of hardened high carbon steel in the center. It makes sense to me that grinding out the tip will still leave an exposed hardened steel.

By the way, I have experience with steels made by these old Japanese sword making families and the steel defies logic. I have seen studies done where, in the end, the people conclude the steel should not be able to do what it does, but since it is doing it, it must be possible.

I have seen my chisels, made by one of these Japanese sword making families, struck with a sledge hammer into white oak thirty times and after the test, the edge nearly as perfect as when the test started. It was still razor sharp.

In contrast, every western steel blade had a clearly visible saw tooth on the edge from brittleness, or a rolled edge from excessive softness. In fact, the study suggested that steel should not be able to withstand the kind of impacts without chipping, above Rc 62 and these blades were Rc 68. To put that in context, the esee is Rc 57 and the higher the number the harder the steel.

If I could find a sword from one of these families, I would buy it for sure.

 

[Tenfeathers]

Question though... if you just re-shape the broken tip aren't you exposing the non-hardened part of the sword and making that the new working tip?

From what I understand, those swords have a hard edge and a softer spine. That is what keeps it from breaking. But if the tip is damaged and you reshape a new one, then that new tip would be softer than the existing edge right?


Here is a photo if what I am talking about. Notice the Temper line and how it covers the tip. If the tip is snapped and I form a new one, that temper line wouldn't go up to the tip.... I mean still a great idea. Just saw this possible downside.

Even if you reshape the tip it will still be stronger than just about any blade steel presently made,also bear in mind it no longer is used for it's orginal purpose.

The line yopu speak of is not always present on all swords some made with the Yakiba (temper) line running out to the tip.

 

[Tenfeathers]

Not a bad idea, but I have yet to see a TRUE Japanese Samurai sword except in a museum.

You can run across them at gunshows ,e-bay, gunbroker.
expectto pay 100.00 to 200.00 for a damaged one just remember a lot of custom knives cost that. Be careful of fakes no Japanese swords were ever made that have the damascus steel look.

Me I would rather have the sword and I have a great many of them.

 

[Tenfeathers]

Japanese sword

Here are some pics of the short one I reshaped and a Katan with the line you mentioned

 

[Tenfeathers]

The steel is laminated chain anchor steel outside of hardened high carbon steel in the center. It makes sense to me that grinding out the tip will still leave an exposed hardened steel.

By the way, I have experience with steels made by these old Japanese sword making families and the steel defies logic. I have seen studies done where, in the end, the people conclude the steel should not be able to do what it does, but since it is doing it, it must be possible.

I have seen my chisels, made by one of these Japanese sword making families, struck with a sledge hammer into white oak thirty times and after the test, the edge nearly as perfect as when the test started. It was still razor sharp.

In contrast, every western steel blade had a clearly visible saw tooth on the edge from brittleness, or a rolled edge from excessive softness. In fact, the study suggested that steel should not be able to withstand the kind of impacts without chipping, above Rc 62 and these blades were Rc 68. To put that in context, the esee is Rc 57 and the higher the number the harder the steel.

If I could find a sword from one of these families, I would buy it for sure.

I have one sword I practice with, It will cut cleanly thru a 1" copper pipe also have used it as a weapon hunting feral hogs cuts the head very well.

Also have some Japanese wood chisels I have never sharpened eather