Thats’s odd. My Wyandotte’s would never sit and after 3 years, got rid of mine this year. They are the smartest chickens ever when free-ranging and findings bugs, but seemed too busy to ever be bothered with sitting.Both my Buff Orphingtons and Blue Lace Wyondottes go broody. The Wyondottes actually seem to be better setters than my Orphingtons. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to hatch any out but that's due to my set up and not to the determination of my girls. I've had to pull both Orphingtons and Wyondottes off of a clutch of eggs after a month of setting.
I've loved Dominiqes AKA Domineckers and i've had them 3 years now and not 1 of them has gone broody. I wanted some who would go broody so I wouldn't have to depend on an incubator if the world went to hell. All of my research says that the Buff Orpington is known for going broody, raising chicks and has a gentle disposition. None to be found around here and most hatcheries don't have any until next month so I have an order in for 21 hens and 4 roosters. That way half will be for meat, the rest eggs and hopefully 1 of the 4 roos will be a calm fellow.
That is interesting. And maybe there is something to that. Diversification of the bloodlines might be a really good thing for overall health of the birds. Seriously, it's like the difference between the health of a purebreed dog that's been bred to the nth degree and a "mutt". Often, the good ol' mutt is quite healthy.The only ones that were successful came from local guy I knew that had incubated hundreds of eggs to get his flock... He had several breeds in his flock and the majority of the eggs were crosses of either Barred Rock hens or Buff Orpington hens and Rhode Island Red roosters... These crossed hens I got from him were the BEST chickens I have ever had
I have adult hens and 11 chicks . I block off a 3' area in the corner of the chicken house with plywood scraps for a hen and her chicks . I mix layer and starter feed together and also provide a water fountain with a baking pan under it to reduce the mess.. chicks must have starter or another source of grit. don't worry about what they eat , they'll be fine if they get out to forage a little.Here's a problem I'm running in to:
We don't free range our chickens because in the desert, there just isn't enough food for them. We do let them out in the afternoons, but we must give them layer feed.
How do we work that with chicks with a mama? In the past, we've just kept store-bought chicks and grown hens separated until the chicks were grown, so we could give starter/grower to the young ones and layer feed to the adults.
How do we do this with them being together though? Do we let the chicks have layer feed? Feed them all starter/grower but give addt'l free oyster shell to the layers?
To keep the adults out if the chick food I’ve used 2x4 welded wire fencing to “filter“ out the adults. Make a 3 foot ring with fencing & cut another piece to make a top. Then just place over the chick’s feeder and stake it to secure if necessary. As the chicks get bigger just cut out a couple pieces of the fencing to allow them through but still not the adults.Here's a problem I'm running in to:
We don't free range our chickens because in the desert, there just isn't enough food for them. We do let them out in the afternoons, but we must give them layer feed.
How do we work that with chicks with a mama? In the past, we've just kept store-bought chicks and grown hens separated until the chicks were grown, so we could give starter/grower to the young ones and layer feed to the adults.
How do we do this with them being together though? Do we let the chicks have layer feed? Feed them all starter/grower but give addt'l free oyster shell to the layers?