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Discussion Starter #1
I have seen many ideas on here for a bug out vehicle and SHTF vehicles,
Here is my idea for the best well rounded multi purpose vehicle that anyone can have/build with very small budget)
Total build 5-8k depending on what all you do. Steps can be added or taken away depending on your area and budget your working with.

I would use a 4x4 yukon, tahoe, 4 door jeep, or simular vehicle with lots of room and not super huge.
(I'm a family of 5 so need the bigger truck)
Smaller trucks could be used for smaller familis.)
Find a 6.9 diesel motor with a manual trans and manual 4x4 transfercase.
Manual injection system. (Easier to work on and less to go wrong)
Buy NEW over sized agressuve tires with a strong steel wheel and have the tires filled solid (rubber fill is best but not the only way to fill) (filled tires never go flat) 6 in total 2 extra for a just in case(bent wheel, something in a tire you can't get out that makes it so you can't move)
Beef up the suspension (frame, axels, body mounts, hubs, springs, drive shafts, and so on) lift it up just a bit but not to much. Just enuff to have a good aggressive tire to clear.
Simply boxing the frame with 1/4 in. Steel adds a lot of stringth to the truck in whole.
Add an area to carry 2 extra batteries 4 in total out of the way and where they will not short.
Many say why spend the time and money for something you will only bad able to drive for a short time in a SHTF event due to no gas, no diesel, basicly no fuel to power the truck.
Well with adding the 6.9 motor you can adapt it to run off basicly any thing. (Diesel, gas, motor oil, transmission fluid, cooking oil, hydrolic fluid, and so on) and that is what I will do adding in a tank to hold the biofuel if you will. (I'm sure you can YouTube it to see how it's done if you don't know)
You will be able to find oil based fuel basicly anywere that has vehicles, draining used oil and fluids out of abandoned vehicles.

And there you have it my idea of a well rounded vehicle that should out last a normal vehicle and get you where you need to go on road or off road.

Now for options that can or can not be added. Keeping in mind extra weight adds extra stress on the drive train and lowers fuel milage. (Didn't add normal items that would normally be in your bug out bags and so on like guns, med kits, and so on)
Top rack for extra carrying room (spare wheels and tires can go here)
Exo skeleton or racing type roll bars
Extra lighting,
Shelding for under the truck (protecting oil pan, trans pan, and so on from off road stumps, logs, or whatever)
Armor plating, window or glass area covers (taking out the glass and adding in welded steal will help with protecting the people in side but also add stiffness to the truck.
Painting the truck in a water proofing paint to keep rust out of in. (Inside and out)
Waterproofing the motor for going in creaks small lakes and so on.
Buying a new motor/trans or rebuilding a used one to make sure it's 100% and less likely to fail.
Bumping up the horse power a bit for added mobility when needed.
The options are limitless and this is just an idea of mine that I consider well rounded and could work in most conditions and areas.
But as always you will want a few extra parts that are prone to fail with you at all times in the vehicle. (Brakes, wheel studs, axel and axel gears, fuel pump, batteris, wheels and tires, belts, universal joints, and so on.)

Again this is only my idea. your needs and wants may vary from mine. So please don't bash the idea if it's not what you would do.
Comments, questions, and ideas are welcome and wanted.
 

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Super Moderator and Walking Methane Refinery
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You better beef that suspension up a LOT. Have you ever driven something with solid tires, or even have any idea what they weigh? Bring a crane for changing to your spares. Also, a fuel trailer because the weight of those tires are going to completely destroy the mileage, as well as the speed. Ever wonder why the military (nor anyone else in the world) doesn't use them?

Research armored cars a bit then get back to us.
 

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LEGAL citizen
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Fact is, most people will not need a badass 4x4. The majority of the people consider offroad a non-paved road with potholes... few will ever use a 4x4 for what it was designed for. Most people just need a standard pick-up...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes I have used solid or filled rubber tires b4. Many times on stump jumpers/rock crwalers. I use front end loaders all the time with filled tires. 17.5 x 25. Loader tires. Yes they are mass heavy at that size however say a 31 x 10.5 would not be so much that you couldn't change the wheel.
And again like I said I'll have no use to go 100 mph.
30 mph would be plenty and much less than that if off road.
And I also said there were other options to the filled tire. Like say a never flat. (Pic added)
The military don't use solid tires 95% of the time due to speed loss. And ability to balance the filled tire. But at low speeds the tires are fine and the weight of the tires can be off set by the gear rato for fuel milage.

 

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Outside of the solid tires, I think your ideal vehicle is on the right track. I am sticking with regular pneumatic tires, patch kits, and OBA for now, but those spiffy new run flats may find their place when they become more available and more tested off-road.

I do question the ability of others to accomplish this within the budget you are giving. 4x4 prices fluctuate a bit based on the area of the country you are in. I think it is a challenge to buy a machine that is not a basket case, budget for a diesel motor swap with fabbed in reinforcements and a roll cage-- and stay under $8000. Not saying it has not been done and is not done regularly, but it is a stretch for anyone not already a fabricator/mechanic (especially if you have to farm out any of the work or pay to redo your own boo-boo's ).

Even if done for less than $8000, you still have a vehicle that you really need to go through if you intend to make sure it is as reliable as possible for go time.

I am currently doing a frame-off resto-mod to avoid the nasty issues that tend to pop up at the worst possible times.

I will be spending way way over $8000 when done. I will have more than that amount in the built axles alone. Then there is the matter of wheels, new tires, a reliable transfer case (rebuild or replacement), quality driveshafts, electrical wiring, winch, real recovery points, skids and rails, etc... All the little things add up.

I do think you can start for $4000 - $8000 and have something you can modify one step at a time-- and keep running throughout most of the conversion process.
 

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Ham Extra Class
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Many can come up with SHTF ideas and inventions, But it takes money, skills, time, and a shop with tools to do most. Let me tell you about my dream BOL that will never happen.
I only post what I have actually done or can afford to do, I leave the dreaming alone. Sorry just a small rant.

OP your price for this project will quickly escalate from your projected 5 to 8k in no time. If you do all the projects you plan on.
 

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I don't know what your experience is with the ih 6.9 idi motor is, but I know mine!!!
1: very hard to start in cold weather.
2: slow as hell!
3: gutless

My kid has an '84 f350 with a 6.9 idi, 4:10 gears, 4 sp trans. Tried to follow the wife to town with it one day. She ran the hell away from me. I was raping the old beast and couldn't even think about catching her. She was not racing me. Just driving like normal. The engine governs out at 75 mph.
Even plugging it in is still a process to start in cold weather. We even put in new glow plugs.
 

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I would look at a lightweight Kubota or Perkins diesel (3 or 4 cylinder) to swap into a lightweight 4x4 body. Add lockers, winch, roof racks and would be good to go.. It may not get you there fast, but it would do the job.

The biggest I would probably go is an XJ Jeep Cherokee. Completely versatile and can fit down trails that a quad or 4 wheeler can.
 

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Prepper for life.
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How well will that work in gridlock traffic.

No matter what you have or build it will end up worthless when every car is blocking the roads.
 

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I will have to say there is a big program EMP so as for truck Pre-1980’s American-made Trucks and SUVs and pre-1974 vehicles without electronic ignition are a pretty safe bet with the condenser being the most suspect part. Diesels with mechanical fuel injection are considered to be the best bet.
 

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Last Frontiersman
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The 6.9 IDI was also in production at a time when the national speed limit was 55mph. 75 mph was plenty back then. It was also built primarily to be a more reliable, fuel efficient alternative to the gasoline engines of the day, not a race car.

Any diesel engine with a mechanical lift pump, as the IDI engines had, are always a little slower to start. Fresh batteries, good glow plugs, and a solid injection system all contribute a great deal to how easily they start.

I don't know what your experience is with the ih 6.9 idi motor is, but I know mine!!!
1: very hard to start in cold weather.
2: slow as hell!
3: gutless

My kid has an '84 f350 with a 6.9 idi, 4:10 gears, 4 sp trans. Tried to follow the wife to town with it one day. She ran the hell away from me. I was raping the old beast and couldn't even think about catching her. She was not racing me. Just driving like normal. The engine governs out at 75 mph.
Even plugging it in is still a process to start in cold weather. We even put in new glow plugs.
 
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Tire slime?

I am thinking of doing this to the motorcycle.

Otherwise. (and this has happened to me) disaster happens lights go out and you cant see to reverse over whatever ever mess is on tje ground.

A spotlight facing rearward is really useful.
 

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If you've got problems starting your diesel in the cold, take some wire, a fuse, a 12v switch, and a starter solenoid. Take the two big cables from your glow plug relay and put them on either side of the starter solenoid. Run the switch terminal to 12v, and run it to a switch in the cab. Press the switch, the solenoid clunks, and your plugs warm just when you want them to. It's recommended to pulse the plugs if you hold for more than 6 seconds, afaik, to avoid burning out the plugs or circuit.

Adjust your valves, maybe check timing, and maybe run some fuel injector cleaner and change the fuel filter, too. Make sure the tank vent isn't clogged, and check and drain your fuel de-waterer.
 

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mine is the carrying capacity of a duece and half in the size of a cj that gets the mileage of a prius.
but that's just me.:)
 

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If the world ever gets in such a state that a vehicle like what is described would seem necessary, I believe it would be to dangerous to drive any vehicle. If there is no rule of law and no one else is driving around, some one will more than likely shoot you out of curiosity to see what other cool gear you might have. Driving a vehicle you cant hear anything yet every one can hear you. A well designed road block and a car will become your tomb. Worst case scenario the only safe way to travel will be on foot or maybe bicycle or horse back.

Besides, pshtf were you going to be driving to? work, shops, cinema? And if things aint that bad a regular truck will do all you need and save yourself some coin.
 

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I like a small truck. The brand don't matter. But it must be able to go at least 500 miles +
I have a Toyota Tacoma and I also have 4 each 5 gallon fuel cans that I keep full of gas. So if I need to go get some one or get out of Doge (las Vegas) I could do it.
 

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Semper Fi
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OP, Does your State have "smog" as dropping that 6.9 into a vehicle never designed for it might cause you a bit of a problem getting it registered.

Or is this something you are building to stick in a barn and only pull out after SHTF?
 
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