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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a Kabar Kukri and have no problem putting a razor, shaving sharp edge on the outer curve of it or any other knife with a straight edge.

My problem is with the inner curve of the Kukri. :confused:

I normally use various types of stones, usually first I use a coarse then a fine diamond stone and a fine arkansas for honing and finally leather for stropping. It seems no matter what I do that inner curve it just will not even slice paper.

I know it has to do with the geometry. The flat stone just doesn't lay flat on that inner curve when holding the blade at an angle.

Is there an easier way to get the sharpness I want without going to a belt or wheel grinder. I like to carry what I need out in the field.

Do I need to change what I'm doing?

I've also tried the Lansky Puck which gave the best results using the small sides of the stone but I couldn't get it to where I was satisfied. It all came back to getting that fine honed edge.

btw...I love my Kukri. The part that is sharp is the sweet spot and it chops through everything like butter. Its just that there is finer work I could use it for with the inner curve...and it needs to be even sharper.

Thanks,
Chris
 

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Gone Fishin'
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This is just my opinion and I am no expert by any means.

First, nice choice in the Kabar Kukri!

Imo, you don't need a really sharp point on the curve of the kukri. From what I have seen myself and read you don't use that part to strike. Instead you use the fatter, fully part of the belly as I am sure you know.

However, the only few good modifications that I can find to a machete is here:
in Blade Forums. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=581335
and on youtube

While I know the machete they use is not a Kukri, I use this only to demonstrate the skandi grind they put on it. Perhaps you can do something similar to your Kukri?

I personally wouldn't because you have purchased a beast and I am sure other than regular sharpening on the belly the Kabar won't need much work at all.

The only other thing that I can suggest if you want to work the factory edge better is picking up a Double Sided DiaFold Sharpener. http://www.dmtsharp.com/products/diafold.htm I find it puts a great edge easily and quickly. Only uses water so it is great for in the field.

Hope this helps.
 

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...

I have the CS SK-5 kukri and was trying to figure out the same thing, alot of people recommend the sharpmaker from spyderco, but i dont wanna buy into just relying on the sharpmaker so i got creative what you can do is just buy sandpaper and wrap it around a dowel and use that to sharpen the inner curve. I also found a site that is focused on woodworking and they sell japanese waterstones in all shapes and sizes, circular and retangular, for sharpening the carving blades which also come in all shapes and sizes, here is a link to one that i think would be amazing for sharpening the inner curve

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=33012&cat=1,43072,43071&ap=1


and here is a link to there entire menu of japanese waterstones

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=43071&cat=1,43072


But when it comes down to it you can always get creative with sandpaper! :thumb:
 

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bushmaster
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Cronx has the essentials of it - you need a curved surface to sharpen a curved edge, specifically the inner curve.

I use Spyderco profilers and they have a surface for any blade, but any suitably abrasive convex surface will work. The more pronounced the re-curve, the more convex a surface you need. Sandpaper around a dowel, shaped water stones, ceramic or diamond rods are all reasonably available.
 

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I just use a very narrow rectangular stone for the inner curved part. I first sharpen the fatter upper part, then slowly and carefully sharpen the curve with the narrow stone. Also, most importantly I am mindful of what part of the blade I am subjecting to rough use. I try to make sure that 90% of the work is done by the easy-to-sharpen top! Just because of the fact it's a challenge to sharpen the curve.
 

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just come accross this, my mate is a ghurka, I'll ask him and let you know. Worst case scenario, his bro is going back to nepal soon I'll get the gen from the maker and let y'all know. Best I can do I am afraid.
 

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Slipstones are what you need for sharpening and honing an inner radiused edge.
Here's a few links to places that offer that type stone.

http://www.imcclains.com/catalog/whetstones/ceramicslipstones.html

http://www.smkw.com/webapp/eCommerce/product.jsp?range=31&Mode=Cat&Cat=96&SKU=SI1000

http://www.smkw.com/webapp/eCommerce/product.jsp?range=211&Mode=Cat&Cat=96&SKU=SI5200

http://www.smkw.com/webapp/eCommerce/product.jsp?range=241&Mode=Cat&Cat=96&SKU=R119

http://www.smkw.com/webapp/eCommerce/product.jsp?range=251&Mode=Cat&Cat=96&SKU=AC143

These are just a few of the different type sharpeners that can be used for the inside edge of a kukri. There are probably millions more out there in the interweb. Search for cylinder slipstones, cylinder whetstones, cylinder oilstones or cylinder waterstones to find most of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow! Thanks to all for all the great information. You guys have come up with some great ideas. This forum is fantastic.:thumb:

I think I might start with the simplest (and cheapest method) with the sandpaper and various sized dowels and then work towards the circular stones or Diafold sharpeners.

I've read a little about using sandpaper. Is the 3M automotive sandpaper the best to start with for my experimentation? The only problem I'll have with the sandpaper is I'm used to grinding the edge towards the medium.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Stone Hammer and Blue123! Either of those could be what I need for a quick sharpening out in the field. And both are reasonably priced. Being that you guys are Kukri owners too...I'll try both.

Chris
 
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