[bennetfox]

So In 9 more days i get my marlin papoose 70p (not the stainless version)
It's my first gun and although I've been shooting before, but its been a while.
I'm good with gun safety, But I have no idea how to clean a rifle (kinda embarrassing I know)
a few questions.
How do i clean a papoose?
Are there any good upgrades?
Whats good ammo for the papoose?
Did i get a Bargain with a papoose, all its extras and tasco scope for 120?
And should i work on iron sights first and then move to scopes?

 

[dcliffhanger]

The first mission is to go out and find some .22 ammo.

The second mission is to move your computer mouse around and find an Appleseed Shoot scheduled near you.

They will fill you in on all the details you need to know and how to do them and they will do it all in one morning. Including getting your sights zeroed, you scope zeroed and your rifle cleaned after the shoot.

If the Appleseed project is not available there might be a local range near you that offers beginner firearms classes.

The internet is definitely NOT the place to learn how to shoot or maintain a firearm.

 

[kenstar]

Actually the internet is a great place to learn about weapon care for a specific weapon. Just make sure you unload your gun before cleaning! Welcome to the firearm owner club.
Yes work on iron sights first, that way if your scope fails you have something to fall back on. GL.

 

[Spitfire]

Congrats, the Papoose is a great little gun.

Cleaning it is very simple, just take the barrel off and run a lubed bore snake (the same way bullets go down the barrel) through the barrel. Then you want to operate the bolt in order to cock the weapon and remove the two flathead screws that hold in the trigger guard and remove it. From there the reciever and bolt will seperate from stock and you can just wipe it down with a rag and lube it.

There are a few things that can be done to your gun but they are good to go out of the box. I put a DIP Picatinny rail on mine as my scope would slide back after firing.

http://www.diproductsinc.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=164829

As far as ammo goes I like the CCI 40g CPRN Mini-Mag as it is extremely reliable and give me cloverleaf groups at 50 yards.

The iron sights leave a lot to be desired and the rifle is WAY more useful with a scope. Currently mine does not have irons but I will probably mount a front tech sight and then a rear Kel-Tec peep so I can still use my scope.



FYI, you can fit 200 rounds of loose .22LR in the hollow stock...

 

[Notchman]

Over at RimfireCentral.com there are plenty of threads on the Marlin 60/795/717 trigger (the 717 is 17HM2 in case you didn't know). The sticky titled Marlin 60 & 795 trigger work... would be a great place to start. RimfireCentral is THE place to go for all of your rimfire needs such as cleaning, manuals, information, etc. 120$ is a great price for a Papoose as long as it functions correctly. If you need a barrel wrench or a case I would check with Numrich as they usually have them in stock. If you don't have a manual for your Papoose they are easily found on the web.

As a side note I have a 717 and it is one of the sweetest rimfire's that I have owned and love it even more than my 70p Papoose. I really wish they would have made a Papoose model in 17HM2 as that would have been the ultimate rimfire rifle.

 

[ivanthehunter]

Hi notchman
I was wondering if you might me able to give a comparison between the bolt assembly of both guns. I own a Papoose 70pss and I'm thinking of a conversion,
Can you tell me the weight of the 717's bolt and is the bolts hammer cocking cam of a similar radiused to that found underneath the bolt on the 70p.

Also you might point out any other major differences that are obvious between the too assys.
I have tried searching for this info but you are the first person I have found that owns both firearms.
Regards and thanks form Ireland
Ivan
The newest guy here.

 

[ivanthehunter]

In response to the Op.
The trigger guard is dirt, rimfiretechnology make a replacement unit!
The gun fails to align to the exact poi after each re-assembly.
I had two machined dovetails cut in the barrel into which I fit a Burris 3-12x32 pistol scope. The barrel and scope never lose alignment.

The trigger is heavy but instead of buying the trigger parts shown in this thread you can simply lower the contact point of the upper part of the trigger lever with some filing with sand paper or steel hand file!.
When you get more confident you can try slackening some of the springs. Not a bad gun but mine failed on two spots!
Both due to user error!
One- I over tightened the barrel nut and and cause the barrel adaptor to slip on its retaining pin that locks it to the receiver I fixed it with epoxy and ground fibreglass! Still holding fast but it's a weekness!
Two- I think it was cause by shooting yellow jackets or stingers or perhaps it was the velocitors!! Lol but I believe that the fast timing caused the magazine holder to lose one of it spurs that lock it hard into the trigger assy. This was first found while looking for the cause of poor ammo feeding.

It just goes to show that any small alignment issue with the mag or it's lips cause major problems. The gun is not reliable with this problems.

It also failed to cycle subsonic ammo reliably so I lightened the weight of the bolt by replacing the charging handle with an aluminium one and this worked a treat.

 

[ivanthehunter]

http://www.diproductsinc.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=112014&CAT=3603

This is the trigger gaurds that I used to swap out for the plastic pics of dirt that marlin supplied.
The plastic one on my gun split at the rear screw hole! Dirt!
Get this sorted ASAP

Ten shots mags are too long and just make it uncomfortable to handle the gun.
I also picked up a ramline model 70 non folding stock and worked on it get it folding again and shortened the forend to suit the Papoose but I was able to fit a QD swivel stud to the forend to allow for a standard bipod as the Papoose only has the stud on the vertical end of the forend and it's not suited to a bipod.
If I was to do it again and had access to a Bridgeport mill I'd machine the dovetails on both the top and bottom of the barrel. I'd also have to create a new flat opposite the existing flat on the barrel. This would allow me to turn the barrel one way and use the iron sights and mount it the other way and use iron sights!
Ye could vary this to include an IR laser pointer to allow NV shooting or simply to take a torch or a bipod !
The problem with the bipod position on my shortened ramline stock and on the factory stock is that it occurs at or near the mid point of the gun so any slight movement of the butt really throws the sight picture around the place!
With a pistol scope on the barrel and a bipod mounted direct beneath on the other dovetail would not really impart a poi shift at the barrel and scope keep tracking one another as they are bolted together.
Without the twin dovetails you could(and I intend to) simply mount a barrel mounted bipod adjacent to the scope mount and prob still achieve good results. I'll let ye know when I get down to the farm!
Lol