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Born to prep
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I have Dayton Timberline MT http://www.offroaders.com/tech/AT-MT-Tires/Dayton-Timberline-MT.htm half of the tread is gone and they do not work as well as they once did. When the tires were new mud was not a problem but now that the void to tread ratio is less they ball up bad.

I am thinking about getting these. Deestone traction
http://www.millertire.com/products/...ruck-tires/7-00-15/7-00-15-deestone-traction/

the problem is that they are not radials and not very wide.

The truck is a 77 Chevy ½ ton 2 wheel drive without positraction.

I was in the woods cutting firewood in the rain. Got quite a few logs cut from the tops the logging crews left behind but could not get any dragged out through the tire deep mud.
I decided to go to another part of the woods where there is wood close to the trail. I cut and loaded about a half a bed load then did some scouting to see what there was in the way of new blow downs in the area. By this time it was raining harder and the sun was starting to go down so I decided to call it a loss and give up. The water was flowing down the trail like a river and was about 8 inches deep. The creek was overflowing it’s banks and the water was flowing from the fields across every low spot on the trail. Down the trail a ways was a clearing but it was on a hill side, I did not make it. I ended up cross ways on the trail with trees to the front of me and the hill to the back of me. I could not go forward because of the trees and mud so all I could do is go backwards “through the mud”. I could only go backwards a few feet digging out the hillside as I went. After a half hour or so of back and forth I was on the trail pointed in the right direction.
 

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Don't know anything about either brand of tire. The big off brand seller in my area of Missouri is Mastercraft. If looking to outfit an old truck, I'd probably go with them as that's what the local store carries.

You might look into some self recovery gear to carry in the ole firewood truck. Come-Along, tow rope, chains, tire chains, Hi-Jack Lift etc.

I carry all that in my 4x4 Nissan and find I use the chains more for pulling logs and downed trees out of my woods.

Tire chains will help you in mud, snow, and ice.
 

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Dog
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You don't want (extra) wide tires in snow or mud, unless the snow or mud is much deeper than your frame is high. floating on snow or mud is more like driving a paddle boat than a truck. Wide tires help a lot in sand and dry pavement.

Bias Ply vs Radial really matters on the highway. If you're rarely on the highway and frequently off-road it doesn't matter too much but the Bias Ply won't air down or float as well. The bias ply have tougher sidewalls.

Extreme off roaders sometimes like bias ply because they are stiffer.
 

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Wile E Coyote, Genius.
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34,871 Posts
Back when I had a chevy 2WD 1/2 ton van in the 80's I bought 4 little tire chain things that conssted of chain that was about a foot long with a nylon strap on each end that you would pass though the wheel and buchle together. Cost about 20 bucks for the 4 at KMart.

Took 5 minutes to put them on and they really worked well! I would put 2 on each rear wheel. The only problem was on glare ice, you couldn't steer since I was too poor and or cheap as a youngster to get another 4 for the front. It would definitely get you out of a mud hollow though.

You might try these. (I looked but couldn't find what I used to use. )
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Peerless-Winter-Track-Light-Truck-Tire-Cables/19853275
 

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Apprentice Geezer
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2,682 Posts
If you are looking for good off road traction, by the time the tread is half worn its time to sell the tires and install new ones, IMO.
Basically off road tires will have the best off road traction for roughly 1/2 to one summer of wheeling.

I have gotten fair results with both bias ply and radial mud tires, I prefer radials for the highway.
I recommend avoiding the cheap tires, those that I have tried have never achieved the life of name brand tires on road (Interco off road tires (Super Swampers/ Boggers/ etc.) are exceptions they never achieve the life of cheap tires when used on road, they are off road only).
Chains are normally too much of a PITA to bother with, IMO, gave the last set away several years ago.
For serious mud, serious mud tires are about the best (Boggers) though like most tire choices it is preference driven.
For light mud any mud and snow or even an aggressive all terrain can work; note, driver skill in the mud is a huge component of traction, some folks can find it where others are stuck.
For short not deep mud puddles momentum can carry vehicles through... or get them badly stuck you make the decision and take the chance.

I would recommend lockers or traction controlled vehicles for most mud; BUT not recommend automatic lockers for snow and ice (they can be very hazardous on/in the slippery).

Note I use street tires on the open differential, non traction controlled, 2wd pickup and rarely have a problem in pastures, camping or when winter street/highway driving... but then I don't try to push mud or snow with the front bumper either.

Enjoy!
 

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Some people go out and get stuck on purpose For fun!😃
Ohh yeah Certainly go deeper and more a reckless until do get stuck. I paid for that electric winch so gotta use it !!

To the OP, off-cuts of carpet are free or very cheap and do help provide traction. Next up in the $ are "Traction Boards", which are plastic 3ft boards either solid or fold-up that again provide traction on mud, snow or sand.

I've bought used sets of name-brand mud tires for ALOT cheaper than new. These purpose built tires are tire and tested, I'd be patient and find used tires over other tires.
 

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Survivor
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The politically correct term is 'temporarily immobile'

Stuck is when you leave the keys in it because you know nobody can steal it...
You beat me to it, I have never been stuck, just momentarily detained. Seriously, I have driven on 12 feet of Sierra Cement and through plenty of mud over the past 35 years and have never had to leave my vehicle behind.

Be prepared, and have your vehicle equipped just in case. I have never had a winch but carry a come-along and a tow strap just in case. Know your vehicle's limitations, I have had to rescue friends that had winches and pushed their limit too far. A locked rear end is a big help and can help a 2WD go almost anywhere a 4WD can go.
 

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Retired Army
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7,130 Posts
Not trying to me smart... but I see your problem.


The truck is a 77 Chevy ½ ton 2 wheel drive without positraction.
In the woods in the rain no less...

Tire chains would be my first purchase. A locking differential the next. This is if on a budget.

I happen to enjoy off road travel, so in that spirit... Convert the old gal to 4x4, put lockers at both ends, go with both better tires, and tirechains!
 

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There seems to be a lot of price negotiation room with tires. Get your best online price (though there is a Chinese counterfeit tire scam from some online dealers) and see what your tire dealer can do.

When you get hub deep in water is there any maintenance you get done right away?
 

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Dry Humper
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172 Posts
There seems to be a lot of price negotiation room with tires. Get your best online price (though there is a Chinese counterfeit tire scam from some online dealers) and see what your tire dealer can do.

When you get hub deep in water is there any maintenance you get done right away?
Diff fluid change. Mud eats u joints too.
 

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I'd just get two more of the same tires. Assuming they are on stock steel wheels i'd grab two rims from the junkyard and mount the new tires. Being able to rotate fronts and backs with an extra set is handy. Traction boards and mats are extra insurance as is a come-along.

I had a '73 GMC 2wd on 35s with 4.5" lift and it was a blast. Now i'm 4wd though.
 
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