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i want to know im compeating ( 4h) and i want to do atleast kinda well
how to be accurate with a bow
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bump.........................
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lots of practice, there's really no other way.
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ok what should i use as a target?
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i currently use a card board box with hay bales behind it
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784 Posts
that will work, but what have you got marked on it ???? as time goes by keep making the X ring smaller
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2,676 Posts
nuthin on the box just trying to hit it( getting used to a heavyer weight bow) so thats all lol
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bump.......................
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87 Posts
The only way to get better in archery is lots and lots of practice.And I don't mean pick your bow up 2 weeks before deer season starts either.I personally shoot year round.I compete in 3D tournaments from Feb.-Sept.and love every minute of it.I've been competeing for 4 yrs.Been shooting a bow for 13 yrs.This past July I placed 2nd in our State Championship.It was a proud moment for me because I know I had worked hard for 4 yrs to get to that point.You have to find out what works for you and duplicate it down to the letter each and everytime.Your grip,your head position,your anchor point,your release it all has to be the same each and everytime or you will not be consitant.As far as targets go some of the best are the yellow jacket bag targets.It takes a long time to wear one of those out.If your tight on funds go to your local CO OP and ask for any of those 50 or 100 pound feed or potato bags.The kind that is made out of burlap is prefered.But others that have that nylon type weave material will work also.Get them home and start saving all of the families Walmart plastic grocery bags.Stuff those burlap sacks full of them and sew or staple it up were that can't get out and you will have a target that was free and last a good while.Hope this helps.Tradrick
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the compitition starts in june or so and im going to practice daily!
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Excellant.What type of bow are you shooting.Compound,recurve,longbow or selfbow?What type of competition is it?Good luck to ya.Just rember practice often but not for extended periods of time.If you start getting tired or muscles worn out do not continue to practice.All you will be doing is learning bad habits.Shooting 20 good arrows using perfect form and follow through is better than shooting 200 arrows when your worn out and can't focus.Don't try to be the next Olympian shooter all at once.Set realistic goals that are reachable.And most important have fun.Tradrick
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2,676 Posts
an old fread bear recurve 50 lb draw weight
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2,676 Posts
split i think, yep its my first,and im shooting instinctive
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2,676 Posts
whats gap shooting?
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371 Posts
I went to my local indoor archery range today 1st time. They were SOOO helpful. Two teachers were there having just taught kids in the morning. One of the teachers just up and gave me a free lesson. In addition to that, the owners let me shoot one of their their Martin longbows as much as I wanted today. The teacher stayed with me correcting me for at least an hour. He seemed really selfless in making sure I got the correct form. I will certainly be going back for most of '09.
I tried to pay for my rent and use at the range but they refused my money. I like that it's inexpensive to practice i.e. re-usable bullets. I was getting good groupings by the end of the day today with the aid of the good teacher. Shot about 52 arrows, 4 each time. Everybody else was getting tired, while I kept going. It was too fun to quit, even though my fingers were getting blistered. I had to aim low because I'm a tall dude.
I tried to pay for my rent and use at the range but they refused my money. I like that it's inexpensive to practice i.e. re-usable bullets. I was getting good groupings by the end of the day today with the aid of the good teacher. Shot about 52 arrows, 4 each time. Everybody else was getting tired, while I kept going. It was too fun to quit, even though my fingers were getting blistered. I had to aim low because I'm a tall dude.
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87 Posts
Gap shooting is more poplar with using 3 fingers under.Give it a try.It may feel weird at first.But stick with it everyday for a week and you'll probably find out your more accurate using this method.
Instead of using split finger use 3 under.That is place all 3 fingers under the arrow nock on the string.When you draw the bow back you need come to a anchor point in align with your eye.That is the most important part.Is alignment.Try anchoring your top finger on your cheek bone.Or you may prefer your middle finger in the corner of you mouth.When you come to anchor/full draw look down the arrows shaft.Notice where your field point is in relation to the target bullseye.For example,stand 10 yds from your target,come to full draw,look down your arrow shaft at your point.Place the point 10'' under your bullseye then release the string.If your arrow hits high increase the gap by however much it was high.If it hits low under your bullseye decrease the gap by however much it was low.Say you held 10'' under your bull and your arrow hit 3'' under your bull.Retrieve you another arrow and this time only hold 7'' under your bull and let her rip.With practice it becomes second nature.And you don't even think about it.After your grouping several arrows close together at 10 yds.back up to 12 to 15 yds. and try there.Every bow has a point on distance.This means it is a distance that you can draw the bow back and hold the point of the arrow on the bull and thats were it hits.Its different for different archers and bows.Because some bows are faster than others and some archers have longer draw lengths than others.After you learn what your point on distance is there is a simple math solution to determining what gap you need at what distance.I can go into that later if you are interested.Just let me know.
Instead of using split finger use 3 under.That is place all 3 fingers under the arrow nock on the string.When you draw the bow back you need come to a anchor point in align with your eye.That is the most important part.Is alignment.Try anchoring your top finger on your cheek bone.Or you may prefer your middle finger in the corner of you mouth.When you come to anchor/full draw look down the arrows shaft.Notice where your field point is in relation to the target bullseye.For example,stand 10 yds from your target,come to full draw,look down your arrow shaft at your point.Place the point 10'' under your bullseye then release the string.If your arrow hits high increase the gap by however much it was high.If it hits low under your bullseye decrease the gap by however much it was low.Say you held 10'' under your bull and your arrow hit 3'' under your bull.Retrieve you another arrow and this time only hold 7'' under your bull and let her rip.With practice it becomes second nature.And you don't even think about it.After your grouping several arrows close together at 10 yds.back up to 12 to 15 yds. and try there.Every bow has a point on distance.This means it is a distance that you can draw the bow back and hold the point of the arrow on the bull and thats were it hits.Its different for different archers and bows.Because some bows are faster than others and some archers have longer draw lengths than others.After you learn what your point on distance is there is a simple math solution to determining what gap you need at what distance.I can go into that later if you are interested.Just let me know.
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