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Just wondering who strips it down completely or just takes shortcuts that wont cost the life of your gun.
How do you clean YOUR gun?
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Since I only fire my M1 Garand nowadays, its not that hard to take apart and putting it back together. Even if I fired only 1 clip at the range, I would still disassemble and clean each individual part. I'm really picky on my Garand because I love it.
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I miss my Garand, I bought one when I got out of the Army also the Garand was my basic training rifle. We field stripped it and scrubbed every thing with a toothbrush, soap in very hot water. Dried it, oiled it, DONE!
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with some apple smelling green liquid from a machine in the company area...mmm,kind of makes cleaning your weapon suck just a little bit less
anyone know what the hell that stuff is. cadre just say its a solution or something
anyone know what the hell that stuff is. cadre just say its a solution or something
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depends on number of rounds fired. if just a little, I just do the bore, bolt, & chamber area. if alot, then a total break down. but the Mauser is pretty tough. :thumb:
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PFC it sounds like you are talking about "Simple Green" which is very common in the military. On my AR I have always used carb cleaner if it has been used and abused but for a simple cleaning I would use standard bore cleaner. If it is really bad then it would use carb cleaner, let it set for about 5 min, then spray it all down with Simple Green and then flush with hot water. Dry and lube and you are good to go.
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its not from a can or bottle though....its from a large machine that constantly cycles the stuff
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If it's my 10/22, and I didn't fire it a whole lot, wipedown, rod through the bore and call it good. Shotgun, same thing. Any of my higher end peices get totally cleaned regardless of round count. Cheap insurance. My carry peice gets cleaned every 30 days even if it's not been fired. Just lubing the internals, wiping down the exterior, oiling the bore and inspecting ammo.
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I can't stand to put away a dirty weapon, if I shoot it ,I clean it, whether I shoot 10rds or 100rds.
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hear ya. Mr. Mossberg is alot tougher (newer) than 65+ year old Mr. Mauser.
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Granted if I go to the range shortly before work, I might lets weapons sit for a day or two, but the duty weapon gets cleaned immediatly. Period. For if you have a dirty weapon when you claim not to have fired, or in the case of a revolver (you can tell exactly how many rounds in the first six one reloaded and fired again you go by shell casings).
As far as cleaning I take my weapon down to field strip. Detail is only done on weapons than I am secure enough knowlage wise to to due. Mauser based bolt action, S&W revolver, Ruger revolver, Marlin series lever actions, Marlin semi-autos.
I use shooters choice religously although I am trying gunzilla. But I will use carbcleaner on occasion. For the stainless steel weapons, especially revolver forcing cone area, and cylinder face, I used to use Mothers mag polish or Flitz polish. Let it be known DO NOT use it on blued weapons for it will grind the finish off in short order! It can be used to take "Rust Blooms" of PARKERIZED weapons but it will grind off the parkerization in 2 to 3 applications. If you allow a parkerized weapon to rust shame on you. If it's a new weapon the "park" will be real thirsty for oil, One might have to oil it heavily several times before it stops rusting. I now use Rigs Yellow gun rag. It's harder to find but when you do, it takes off the hard to take of cabon in a couple wipes. I then follow up with the Mag polish and Q-tips to get the hard to reach areas. In the end the weapon will look like new and unfired. Perfect for a duty weapon.
For lead removal I use Shooters Choice Lead Cleaner, copper fouling is taken care of by Sweets 7.62 (use a plastic cleaning brush for this). For thick lead fouling in chabers I use a Chamber brush. It looks like a regular cleaning brush but it's stainless steel and it's oversized, one only makes 4 or 5 passes with no cleaner. One will see a "mist" on off lead and carbon being ground out of the bore.
After that I use Rig grease on heavy wear areas, and stainless weapons to prevent "Galling", Then I use US military Semi Fliud on rifle bolts and alike. Then then for the small intricate parts and general wipedown I use good ole Rem oil.
Rifleman 336
As far as cleaning I take my weapon down to field strip. Detail is only done on weapons than I am secure enough knowlage wise to to due. Mauser based bolt action, S&W revolver, Ruger revolver, Marlin series lever actions, Marlin semi-autos.
I use shooters choice religously although I am trying gunzilla. But I will use carbcleaner on occasion. For the stainless steel weapons, especially revolver forcing cone area, and cylinder face, I used to use Mothers mag polish or Flitz polish. Let it be known DO NOT use it on blued weapons for it will grind the finish off in short order! It can be used to take "Rust Blooms" of PARKERIZED weapons but it will grind off the parkerization in 2 to 3 applications. If you allow a parkerized weapon to rust shame on you. If it's a new weapon the "park" will be real thirsty for oil, One might have to oil it heavily several times before it stops rusting. I now use Rigs Yellow gun rag. It's harder to find but when you do, it takes off the hard to take of cabon in a couple wipes. I then follow up with the Mag polish and Q-tips to get the hard to reach areas. In the end the weapon will look like new and unfired. Perfect for a duty weapon.
For lead removal I use Shooters Choice Lead Cleaner, copper fouling is taken care of by Sweets 7.62 (use a plastic cleaning brush for this). For thick lead fouling in chabers I use a Chamber brush. It looks like a regular cleaning brush but it's stainless steel and it's oversized, one only makes 4 or 5 passes with no cleaner. One will see a "mist" on off lead and carbon being ground out of the bore.
After that I use Rig grease on heavy wear areas, and stainless weapons to prevent "Galling", Then I use US military Semi Fliud on rifle bolts and alike. Then then for the small intricate parts and general wipedown I use good ole Rem oil.
Rifleman 336
Shoot - clean. Shoot - clean.
Jericho... shoot - clean, maybe.
I've been bad about it. Getting better though.
When I do clean, I go as far down as is necessary to reach moving parts. Spray cleaner, followed by compressed air and oil. Field use, traditional methods.
H&Ks come apart plenty easy, though, and mine have never jammed.....
Jericho... shoot - clean, maybe.
I've been bad about it. Getting better though.
When I do clean, I go as far down as is necessary to reach moving parts. Spray cleaner, followed by compressed air and oil. Field use, traditional methods.
H&Ks come apart plenty easy, though, and mine have never jammed.....
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