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Which one would you choose?

  • SOG Seal Pup Elite

    Votes: 10 25.6%
  • Gerber LMF II Tactical

    Votes: 12 30.8%
  • Ka-Bar Becker Combat Utility

    Votes: 17 43.6%
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I help enlighten folks
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http://www.rmjtactical.com/


Eagle Talon - Avialble Spring 2009
SUMMARY: EAGLE TALON: 18 inch all-steel integral designed tactical tomahawk (no head-handle separation...ever). Designed to pierce a Kevlar helmet. 4140 differentially hardened alloy steel. Kydex Bottom eject scabbard. MIL-Spec Parkerized finish. Choose either black (gray) or desert camo micarta handle. Overall length - 18 inches. Length forward cutting edge - 3 inches. Length of spike - 3 inches. Tomahawk and Scabbard - less than 3 lbs. Scabbard included
More Details
DETAIL: The Talon is made from 4140 Chrome-Moly steel. This material is often chosen by designers for its toughness, and is used extensively in machinery, heavy equipment, even tanks. The tensile strength is much higher than commonly used knifemaking steels.
The spike is long enough to inflict a death blow, short enough to keep the piece balanced. The spike geometry provides the best balance between penetration strength. The spike was designed to penetrate a Kevlar helmet so it easily punches through typical steel clad door, car doors and hoods and tires are no contest.
The handle is a full tang construction, 3/8" thick. To break the handle, you have to break the steel.
The handle is also skeletonized. This reduces the weight and allows the handle to accept Micarta scales or to be cord wrapped. The handles come off with a standard philips screw driver.
The Micarta handles are very tough having over twice the impact resistance of Acetyl, hickory and other commonly used materials. Micarta also has a low moisture absorption rate, and excellent UV resistance.
The screw fasteners utilized on the handles are 304 stainless steel. This ensures that you will always be able to take the handles apart. Corrosion inside the screws is not a problem.
Blade: The forward edge is designed for general field use. The blade geometry is designed for taking abuse. The concept: the spike and the beard are the killing edges; the forward edge takes care of chores. One guy in Afghanistan used his to chop armament off of a downed Soviet MIG.
Grind Types: The forward edge and the spike are flat ground (and the convex grind) which is the strongest grind available, especially for impact purposes.
The beard is hollow ground. This edge is not an impact edge, but rather a ripping edge. The intersection of the flat ground edge and the hollow ground edge is relatively thin which is great for ripping. It hooks in quick and cuts fast. This geometry however is not as strong as if both edges were flat ground. Strength was sacrificed at this point for cutting ability. Can you break the beard if you try hard enough? Yes you can. But, the incredible advantage of the hooking/cutting edge outweighs the strength factors in that particular area of the hawk.
Heat Treatment: Samurai swords are differentially heat treated - the cutting edge is hard, the spine is tough and springy. This concept is implemented with the Talon. The material begins at 30 Rockwell hardness for the toughness. The edges are then flame hardened to 56 Rockwell for incredible hardness.

Price: $360.00
Scabbard Style: Jump Ready
Fastener Style: Shoulder Belt Strap
Handle Color
 

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I love my Gerber LMFII ASEK. Comfortable rubber handle, 3 lashing holes in the handle for a makeshift spear, built in sharpener, plexiglass/glass breaker on the end, can be mounted on the ankle or hip, hung freely from a belt, or lashed to just about anywhere.

 

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I would vote for the seal pup elite, I have one and love it. It has been a tough knife. I have cleaned game, used it in the kitchen and cut rope, fuss sticks and anything else I have thrown at it. It holds an edge pretty well and gets sharp very easily. There is nothing wrong with th LMF I just don't want serrations on my fixed blade. I have the version with no serrations. Just think that in the field it is easier to sharpen without them. If this is for your BOB then no telling when you will get to sharpen those serrations again.
 

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"Survivalist since Birth"
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I have a seal pup and love it. I hate most Gerber Products now, IMO the LMF is the last thing that hasnt degenerated into crap...yet. The Becker Necker is more of a light duty knife, the Seal Pup can take on some heavy duty stuff that the Necker wont be able too. Not to say that its a bad knife, its fantastic a buddy o' mine has it...but as far as function for a general survival/bushcraft knife-seal pup elite all the way!
 

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sharpen serrations?? what a stupid myth that keeps getting pushed along. when and how the hell do you dull serrations? ive cut wires with my gerber half serrated and it will still cut your finger to the bone if you slip up.
 

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BEEN HERE TO LONG
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this is sad all knives are good if you dont have one
 

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its gotta be the stupidest question a man could ask on here. "what knife do i buy" jee zuz be a man and pick one out! we all own multiple kives so obviously there isnt one knife that you can own to do every job. sounds like a guy whos wife or mother picks out his clothes for the day. if you cant pick out a knife that is gonna fit your needs you might as well give up now cuz you are not going to survive on your own!!! not just this thread either, all of these threads asking this same darn question!!!!
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!
 

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Knife Nut
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does not matter which you get. if you are like the rest of us u will end up with all three anyway. I have the seal and kabar and like them both however I love my rat rc3 and rc4 better than either and they are in the same price range can't beat a knife make of 1095
 

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does not matter which you get. if you are like the rest of us u will end up with all three anyway. I have the seal and kabar and like them both however I love my rat rc3 and rc4 better than either and they are in the same price range can't beat a knife make of 1095
I have a Rat Cutlery RC-3, it's a good knife.





I agree with trixie, buy a couple of knives.
 

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One of the handiest knives I have ever owned was a Schrade Sharp Finger.
Simple no nonsense and cheap.
That Puukko on the right in that pic is pretty cool YB.
 

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Earthwalker.
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some smart alec moderator put it on there, but i kinda like it!
ahh trixie i think the avatar kinda suits your name LOL:rofl: i could give you a pirate flag?:upsidedown:

Getting back to the original thread i think he should buy all three of the knives try them out and then send the ones he don't like to me to play with.:thumb:
 

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sharpen serrations?? what a stupid myth that keeps getting pushed along. when and how the hell do you dull serrations? ive cut wires with my gerber half serrated and it will still cut your finger to the bone if you slip up.


I agree, serrations will take a long time to dull on thy knife, my vote was for the gerber, it's an all around great knife, I've heard good things about the seal, but I love my gerber

Also, you can resharpen serrations with a diamond rod to give it a rough edge, it won't be perfect but it will work, and serrations make cutting most materials easier
 
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