[kev]

What is a good self tapping screw for securing wood to metal?

My wife and I are going to get a carport put in, and then turn it into a chicken house. She wants the outside decked for that rustic barn look.

The local lowes store sells a 5/4 X 10 decking board.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_21565-432-54610T225N_0__?productId=3184319

Why do they call it 5/4 anyway? Why not just call it something like 1 1/4? When I was in school my teachers told me the top number can not be bigger than the bottom number. Then comes along these deck boards that defy basic math.

Here are the screws I am looking at using.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

The building is marketed as an 18 X 21. It is going to be 20 feet long with a 6 inch overhang on each side, for a total length of 21 feet.

I figure 10 foot long boards with a splice in the middle should do nicely.

 

[Greeneal]

Common lumber, 1X4 etc, is sawn 1" thick and also known as 4/4 but ends up 3/4" thick after planing each side smooth. 5/4 isn't called 1 1/4" because it is not that thick when planed. To get 1 1/4" finished you start with 6/4.

 

[rabehning]

What are the ten foot boards for. Roof sheeting? For the floor, or what

 

[dmas]

Is the carport just metal pole supports? Is that why you are using screws instead of nails?

If it is poles you probably have to drill holes, self tappers are for sheet metal. I prefer square head Robertson screws because they are easier to drive than phillips.

Decking is not laid flush together. The gap I assume is for expansion. I don't think you can just but boards together.

Think about how you will do bottom to keep out chewers and diggers.

 

[kev]

What are the ten foot boards for. Roof sheeting? For the floor, or what

The sides.

The carport is going to have a metal roof.

Is the carport just metal pole supports? Is that why you are using screws instead of nails?

Think about how you will do bottom to keep out chewers and diggers.

Yes, the carport has metal uprights.

For diggers, thinking about laying cyclone fence down for about 2 feet out.

 

[FalconsBravesHawks]

Kev, I have been stocking up on various lengths of these for both metal and wood, self tapping...although you might want the flat head instead of pan head.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...ad-Sheet-Metal-Screws-50-Pack-25102/202102352

 

[LongInTheTooth]

Kev: Always, Always, ALWAYS...get MARINE-GRADE...different from common
stainless...costs a bit more, but you'll only have to do it once.

 

[FalconsBravesHawks]

Is the carport just metal pole supports? Is that why you are using screws instead of nails?

If it is poles you probably have to drill holes, self tappers are for sheet metal. I prefer square head Robertson screws because they are easier to drive than phillips.

Decking is not laid flush together. The gap I assume is for expansion. I don't think you can just but boards together.

Think about how you will do bottom to keep out chewers and diggers.

When I did my deck I tried getting the boards as close as I could (these were 2x6xvarious lengths...If you use pre-defined gaps then you will end up with heel catchers everywhere. Even butting my boards up as close I could get, there are still places with a good 3/4 inch or so gap. This is for pressure treated pine#2. As they dry out they will shrink so you need to account for that.

 

[FalconsBravesHawks]

Kev: Always, Always, ALWAYS...get MARINE-GRADE...different from common
stainless...costs a bit more, but you'll only have to do it once.

I usually use for virtually everything outside, the tan hex-head porch screws...3 years later they still are doing great. I probably didn't need to do this, but I actually drilled pilot holes for EVERY SINGLE screw...lol...just to keep from splitting anything.

 

[Nuada]

i've been working as a contractor for 3 years now and i still havent found a good screw that works well for metal and wood :xeye: you'd probably be better off pilot drilling the wood to attach it to metal, or punching the metal to attach it to wood

 

[cranky1950]

Kev,

Why don't you through bolt stringerrs to the sides of the aluminum supports and just nail your clapboards.

I'd go so far as to rip the boards in half, you're not really looking for strength, just sheathing. Don't use washers and drive screws flat so the seams don't let the winter wind in. I'd still use that exterior sheathing that looks like board and stringer siding, it'll seal better than any clapboard siding. also put down one row of cinder blocks then start sheathing from that height. lets any rain runoff.

 

[dmas]

I have no solution but chain link has pretty big holes and easily allows rats thru.

 

[BrianWorf]

Kev, those self-tapping screws you posted will work well. I would add a washer on the board side to give more surface area of the wood to hold on to. Depending on the thickness and hardness of the metal, a small pilot-hole in the metal may be a good idea.

 

[toobboy]

Kev: Always, Always, ALWAYS...get MARINE-GRADE...different from common
stainless...costs a bit more, but you'll only have to do it once.

THIS, in spades..... a good sized head pan head screw, even a short roofing
screw with a washer/gasket at the head is not a bad idea for this application,
as long as they are marine grade stainless.

 

[Runamok]

Kev, what you have picked out is the correct application for that screw. Buildex is a great brand and their coatings are some of the best in the industry. Is there a reason you are not putting metal sheeting on the sides of the building also?

I would suggest getting a square/torx/hex drive for those screws. They are hard to drive well with a Phillips bit without stripping some of them (making them hard to take out if you ever choose to disassemble the structure and salvage the boards).

Coming from a guy who worked at Fastenal for 6 years and sold thousands of different types of screws for all kinds of crazy applications.

 

[SamboRoberts]

Common lumber, 1X4 etc, is sawn 1" thick and also known as 4/4 but ends up 3/4" thick after planing each side smooth. 5/4 isn't called 1 1/4" because it is not that thick when planed. To get 1 1/4" finished you start with 6/4.

Wait, not now I'm confused.

So 1/4 isn't a quarter of an inch, therefore 2/4 isn't half an inch and 4/4 isn't an inch. Do I have that right?

Kev - In my YouTube research, I've noticed that it's common for American woodworkers to use 5/4, 6/4, etc measurements.

If you go to one of the big box stores (Home Depot, etc), you'll be able to get hex head tek screws.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-12-...l-Point-Roofing-Screw-80-Pack-21412/100187594

Similar to that, only without the washer and I'd advise pre-drilling the timber.

 

[REM]

https://shop.mccoys.com/hardware/fasteners/screws/metal-to-wood-screws/p.7830

McCoys has these for $6.95 a pound. These are the ones with 1/4" heads for really easy install and removal should you choose to remove them. I find them much easier to work with than a phillips head screw.

These work great with wood/wood connections, too.

:thumb:

 

[JDH]

Trailer deck mounting screws have countersunk heads to give you a smooth surface without snags.

Reamer Tek Wood To Steel Star Drive Screws, 14-20 x 3-1/4", 5lb Jar - Hand Staplers And Tackers - Amazon.com

 

[Greeneal]

Wait, not now I'm confused.

So 1/4 isn't a quarter of an inch, therefore 2/4 isn't half an inch and 4/4 isn't an inch. Do I have that right?

Kev - In my YouTube research, I've noticed that it's common for American woodworkers to use 5/4, 6/4, etc measurements.

If you go to one of the big box stores (Home Depot, etc), you'll be able to get hex head tek screws.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-12-...l-Point-Roofing-Screw-80-Pack-21412/100187594

Similar to that, only without the washer and I'd advise pre-drilling the timber.

Wood is that thick when sawn from the log. Drying and planing makes it smaller but smoother. This means that if you buy rough-sawn lumber 4/4 and wish it smooth before you use it then you end up with a quarter of the board as sawdust and shavings.

 

[SamboRoberts]

Wood is that thick when sawn from the log. Drying and planing makes it smaller but smoother. This means that if you buy rough-sawn lumber 4/4 and wish it smooth before you use it then you end up with a quarter of the board as sawdust and shavings.

Wouldn't it make more sense to sell it as the dressed size? :thumb: