If you're just talking about a portable tri-fuel generator, I think I would run if off the fuels in this order:
My statement was intended to be used as a source for fuel in a SHTF BUT,....
I got mine used of craigslist. It's was designed to run those center pivot irrigation system on big farms. It was on a trailer with a big 60 gal tank (that was FULL). It has a 3 cylinder Kubota engine with 2400 hours on it. I got it for about $2300 (including the full 60 gal tank of fuel). Mine doesn't have a muffler, but I have a silencer (basically a super muffler) for it. Just haven't put it on.This is an awesome Thread. Before I started reading about this issue in other Threads on SB a few months ago, it was something I didn't even think about. You used gas to run a generator. Now I'm searching for a generator, and have yet to make a commitment.
For fuel, if price off the generator wasn't an issue, I would go with diesel and propane. If I had to choose one, it would be diesel. Basically for all the pro-diesel points made in this Thread.
However since price is an issue, and I don't plan on living off a generator long term, it will most likely be gas. I'm still keeping my eyes open for an adequate used diesel I can afford though.
This is the problem with gas generators. On my other gas engines (weed eater, tiller, etc), I use SeaFoam. When I put them to bed for the winter, I empty the tank and pour a little SeaFoam in them and start them up and run them dry. SeaFoam smokes a lot when burned straight, but it does really help. They start right up in the spring with fresh gas.when storing the gas generator i made the mistake of always turning off the fuel and letting it run dry, thought i was doing good keeping the alcohol gas from corroding the carb but, the residue left in the carb still builds up and eventually clogs the jet anyway, best to run the unit once a month with stabil gas treatment, and if possible still use ethanol free gas when you can find it. Plus intend on getting a propane model too, it isnt as efficient but propane keeps forever.
Not really, but I have an electrical engineer friend that said that mine should be pretty EMP proof because it's "intrinsically regulated". Not sure how it works but it means that it doesn't have a separate voltage regulator. I think that's the part that is the most vulnerable to the EMP and if you buy an extra voltage regulator for it and keep it in your faraday cage, that you have a higher likelihood of having a working generator. Same with voltage regulators for tractors and such.Does anyone know of any studies on EMP resistance with modern automatic whole house backup generators?
What are your 2 diesel generators? Are they both in enclosed canopys? I don't recall seeing any 7KW 1,800 RPM diesels that have an enclosed canopy. I have really beeg eyeing up the 10KW Multiquip Whisperwatt (1,800 RPM) but unfortunately Multiquip's 7KW size is 3,600 RPMs ugh! If their 7KW was 1,800 RPMs I'd probably already have bought it!Diesel:
I currently have two diesel generators (10kw, 7kw)...
Both my generators are 1800 rpm water cooled (quieter and longer life)
Wow an 1,800 RPM small gas generator!!! Do they still sell these? I'm trying to find more info this looks great!+1 for 1800 RPM units. I have an X Corps of Engineers gas 2kW 6 to 8 hours on a gallon of gas - no electric start and it weighs like 300#, very quite though.
Maybe he meant to say mechanically regulated. In a nutshell, most common gasoline generators (read cheap and simple) are self excited meaning in addition to an alternator they also contain a small DC generator to provide power to the alternator winding. They must run at 3600 rpm. The speed of the engine is controlled by a mechanical governor which opens or closes the throttle on the carb as needed to keep a constant RPM. If the engine is turning faster or slower the voltage will be either higher or lower than the desired (120VAC) output. The frequency (Hz) will also change or drift with the engine speed. Just about every electronic power supply made today will be happy with 100-130VAC between 50-60Hz. So these "cheaper" Gensets will work for most needs.Not really, but I have an electrical engineer friend that said that mine should be pretty EMP proof because it's "intrinsically regulated". Not sure how it works but it means that it doesn't have a separate voltage regulator. I think that's the part that is the most vulnerable to the EMP and if you buy an extra voltage regulator for it and keep it in your faraday cage, that you have a higher likelihood of having a working generator. Same with voltage regulators for tractors and such.
I have 5 permanent magnet motors that produce 180VDC at 1750 rpm. These things are old school and HEAVY. Got them for free. I was going to rob the magnets but I can't in good conscience break a working unit. I was thinking about building a platform to mount them on and string them together with a pulley. Add a large inverter, old lawn mower engine with some kind of voltage regulator and you would be in business. Plenty of youtube videos on the subject of homemade generators but I don't know how to weld. :Wow an 1,800 RPM small gas generator!!! Do they still sell these? I'm trying to find more info this looks great!
Using only ethanol free gas in small engines prevents most problems.:thumb:I guess I will be the odd man out for choosing gasoline and here's why. Stored and handled properly gasoline is pretty safe. True it is flammable but millions of people who own lawn mowers do it all the time. I do not own any diesel powered vehicles so buying a generator that uses diesel means I have to add another fuel to my preps.
My gasoline stock serves many uses. Chainsaw, cars, ATV, generator and possibly bartering. Gasoline stored properly in a sealed container will last longer than most people realize. I have used two year old gas that worked just fine.
The 7kw is an Onan Rv generator it has an enclosure.What are your 2 diesel generators? Are they both in enclosed canopys?
I have had no problem with either generator. Its my belief that wet stacking is fairly rare, as long as you have intermittent heavy loads ie: Water Heater, Well Pump,heating system etc. You keep the engine warm enough you will avoid wet stacking. Wet stacking is pretty easy to diag, look for wetness in exhaust and black smoke during burn. I could be wrong on this but thats what I have read.How do you do with wet stacking?