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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted my project in the daily preps thread and got a PM on it so I thought I would post a few pics.
Basically I tinned in the wood burner to my forced air, if I have no Nat Gas and have electricity I can burn wood and use my F/A as a heat exchanger/ blower. If I have no electric I can use a supplemental blower on the wood burner. My goal is to place a 3/4 HP motor on the back of the wood burner and power it with a 1800 watt solar generator. I did tie in to cold air return and believe if I have no power I will get marginal heat as a strait gravity system - although I think my ducting is a tick small for that. It is tight, but, will do some atmosphere testing this fall to be absolutely safe. All is baffled off at the moment, air is on seems to be fine. It is tinned to an 8 inch double walled chimney. I live in the country and what I do have is a crap load of hard wood and sand springs, just morphing to fit my resources. I will say that re routing some duct work and spacing the A-coil was bit of a chore.


 

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I'd get read of the evap coil, it will restrict too much airflow if trying to to do it with gravity. Unless the house is really big a 1/6-1/3 HP blower should work fine and a lot less energy(2 amps vs. 5-7 amps)if you useing 115v. Does the back duct on the stove go up and then down to the RA at the bottom of the Forced Air Furnace? You might need a damper to not recirculate when the furnace is running thru the stove.

I dont understand how you tied into the wood stove, Is it made for this, what brand is it? I used a Yukon multi fuel FAF for years and found it grossly wasteful in eff. but you have a lot of wood so thats not a big deal.

can you regulate the draft or is it all manual adjustment?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No I modified it, as far as I can tell it is a 1950 model. I tied directly into the RA then baffled it. This home was built in 1948, had a covered over chimney exit through the foundation, I uncovered it. More pics.

RA, baffled at the moment, my thinking is with a return flow I should get a suction effect, and heat rises...'eh?


RA overhead duct, tied into;

RA tied into the wood burner- used a cutting wheel, this is double walled, so the burn chamber is covered by 1/2 iron.

Mount for the motor, 1/3 horse? I dunno, but it is a thought, most likely trial and error this fall. No thermostat control yet, working on that.






I think this will perform in fine fashion and be an asset. motor size is the issue of the day and solar power to keep it going.
 

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I see it better now, I think it will work without a fan also as the heat will rise up both ducts if cold air can get in the bottom around the heat exchanger of the stove. A 4" computer fan(12v) can move a lot of CFM too.
 

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This is something I have been pondering myself. Seems like every fall my furnace goes on the fritz and I have to repair something. Would make for a nice backup. I am kicking myself everyday.. about 10 years ago when we bought this house we sold the wood burner that came with the house. If only I would have known....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I see it better now, I think it will work without a fan also as the heat will rise up both ducts if cold air can get in the bottom around the heat exchanger of the stove. A 4" computer fan(12v) can move a lot of CFM too.
Never thought of that angle. Indeed if I could help the RA descend then I should get more lift with my heat.

Thanks:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is something I have been pondering myself. Seems like every fall my furnace goes on the fritz and I have to repair something. Would make for a nice backup. I am kicking myself everyday.. about 10 years ago when we bought this house we sold the wood burner that came with the house. If only I would have known....
You can get these older wood burners at auction for about $100. I am not sure about a stove per say, but, the old furnaces are common and really work well.

Sheet metal at Menard's what have you is pricey, but, if you can do some tinning or know a fabricator a case of beer goes a long way :D: I picked up the chimney from a flood FEMA buy back demo for the cost of removal. Scrubbed it - checked the seams, good to go :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I fired it up yesterday evening - as it turns out my story and one half got warm on the main floor in about 45 minutes, the 2nd floor was comfortable. I burned 3 - 14 inch white oak logs split.

I agree I think the A coil is an impedance and may re route the uptake above it.

I have several C02 detectors with digital read outs - all were fine.

The fire chamber being what it is, I left the basement door open and had a nice warm uptick of air from the basement - although the outer shell of the furnace was not a fire hazard.

Gravity and the laws of nature are a good thing.

Although 22f is not minus 30 so far so good will try again when the real chill sets in.:D:
 

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I've got a similar setup but my wood furnace is in the attached garage and duct work runs from it into the house system. I had to put one way dampers on each side of it or my house furnace would blow through the wood furnace duct work. Then again mine isn't close like yours so maybe not an issue for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not so far. I can use it with the "fan" setting on my forced air - this is more of a lights go out during the blizzard type of deal.

I live in the middle of no where, and while that is a good thing - when the power goes out it tends to stay out for days. Really the only thing I have out here beside white tail deer and sand springs is wood - so I guess it made sense.

I have a bud that has a bin fed corn burner that enters through his garage / shop, sweet set up. Heats his entire home.
 
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