Thanks Reed! I might call on you some day.

 

Anytime, I'll do what I can

 

Thanks for offering this service, I'm sure I'll pick your brain:thumb:

 

Reed I was hoping you lived closer, as I have a tranny job and clutch to do. We could talk black guns and I could make all the coffee you could stand! LOL!

 

You, sir, rock!:thumb:

 

Reed,
I'll bite... 2003 Ford focus ZX3... pretty much every day on my way to work while I'm driving and I smell a smell like burning plastic. It is random and only lasts like 10 to 15 seconds... I could be stopped or driving, there is no pattern.... flushed and checked the radiator, had a friend look at the heater... i can't figure it out.

Super annoying and makes nauseous when it happens...PMed as well. but i thought it would be more fun to have the solutions public

 

Well you are not alone. I had one come into the shop about a year ago with the same problem. The owner said it smelled like electrical wires heating up or fire but we where never able to pin point the problem ,ad the fact that Ford never put out a TSB or service bulletin to address the odor/problem. I went crazy trying to find the odor and never did find the issue or cause. If you do end up finding it please let me know what it is.

 

I am going to jump in here and mention that I am somewhat "teaming up" with Reed on this subject and will help with auto repair questions as well.

I will give you a little background about myself. I am currently an ASE Master tech, although I am no longer turning wrenches as a career. I realized that there was more to the job than one realizes and it wasn't for me (more on that later). My background is working for Ford, so that is where most of my knowledge lies, although I have worked on my fair share of many other models as well.

I've already cleared this with Reed since it is his thread and look forward to hopefully saving you some headaches and cash. Feel free to send the questions.

 

. My background is working for Ford, so that is where most of my knowledge lies, although I have worked on my fair share of many other models as well. .

Dawg, If I can find the new PM button I'll use that next time but for now... My Galaxie is dripping transmission fluid from both the power steering and the transmission. Drips just sitting in the garage from 4 or 5 places. What do you suggest?

 

What would be really, really useful to me [and maybe one or two other folks here who aren't anywhere near as car-savvy as you] is some of your experience dumped into a FAQ so I don't ask you the same question you just got asked...and you'd save on answering the same question repeatedly.

What are funny noises/symptoms indicative of serious issues, or which ones can I ignore? How do I tell if the @#$#@$ computer chip is going out? Is it a serious problem if my emergency brake light won't go out [I already know the answer to that one because my car's got that problem, but it's an example of what would be handy to know]?

 

If you could be more specific on make and model it may help a little more as certain vehicles are prone to certain issues.

 

http://forums.focaljet.com/team-tech/388447-strong-burning-smell.html - alternator?? does that make any sense? I'll look into it further

edit: after further research on focus buring smell problems.. could be related to wiring... i'll take a look and let ya'll know if i figure it out

 

Hi Reed and thanks for your service I was wondering what you use to seal the thermostat housing on an older car. I know some people use gaskets and some use no gasket but some type of glue/sealer from a can. Thanks.

 

Most of the time I use a silicone based gasket sealer with the gasket when dealing with any coolant passage, RTV black or blue, I use black most of the time just because I hate to see a bright blue repair :

 

Thanks, how about another? When replacing ball joints, how do I keep the whole threaded shaft from turning in the housing as I tighten the nut?

 

Check engine light came on just after rolling over 80K on a 1998 Ford Ranger XLT that has had regular maintenance and oil changes and mostly highway driving.

 

Did you have the codes checked? Out here the parts house will check it for free if you afraid to see a tech. They will also, maybe try to sell you something. Everyone out here thinks they are mechanics and had a brother, uncle, sister, cousin that had the same problem and it was...YADA YADA YADA...and then you spent money shotgunning the problem. Usually getting you no-where! Reed and others here are techs and there seems to be alot of us. Props to Reed for volunteering!:thumb:

 

Idaho,

I generally use an impact wrench to get the nut started on ball joints. Once you get the tapered shaft seated in the knuckle, you shouldn't have any problems. If you aren't using an impact, find some way of creating a little pressure to hold the joint into the knuckle. Sorry if this sounds confusing, it really isn't. I'll try to explain better if I need to.

Anchorbanger,

You really need to have someone put a scanner on your Ranger to see what code(s) are showing up. It could be one of many different things that is causing it. If you have the code(s) maybe Reed or I could have a little better idea as to what is going on. Sorry.

 

Just happened the other night on the way home. I haven't had a chance to get it to the local shop I use yet. It's running fine, but I will get it looked at. Thanks.

 

1998 is new enough that it might turn that light on at 80K to remind you of some sort of "mandatory" 80K dealer service interval. If so, there's a way to reset it. (Check the owner's manual... Ford might even have made it possible for a mere human to do it.)

OTOH - I asked a friend about this and he said, "Just remove the radiator cap and replace everything under it with something marked GM on it."

 

If you guys know:
I have a old Sun ignition scope, still works great, but does anyone know of a kit or an adaphter that would allow me to use it as a graphing scope for checking sensors and fuel pump wave patterns?
Thanks and a 1,000 internet points if ya do

 

Question from the Scothish section

If you guys know: Is there a kit or adaphter I can use for turning my Sun (Slueth One) oscillisocope into a graphing = wave scope for reading sensor outputs and fuel pump 'waves'.
(Trying to avoid buying a Snappy MT2400)
TIA

 

Hello, new here, seen your post. I am having some trouble with my 86 for ranger 2.9-can you help?

 

need help with ford ranger 2.9 can you help?

 

I was just wondering what a standard price for a repair would be, my 93 ford ranger manual 4wd 3.0 L just had the transmission, slave cylinder and clutch go out. I took it to a local shop and the quoted price they gave me was $2370 to replace all three. I'm just trying to make sure that I'm not about to get ripped off. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me out.

 

Before ....



Before I would spend that kind of money, I'd sign up with Alldata, for about $26 you get a complete manual with Parts and Labor breakdown for that particular vehicle.

After reading it, you may see that could be a bargain - especially the work and often - special tools required to do the job.

YMMV

 

I could use some help

1980 Jeep J10 258 6cyl. 4 speed with Holley 2 barrel carb. Sat for who knows how many years before I "resuced" it from a junkyard. I've gone through all the systems replacing and upgrading as I did.
I have a problem that I can't figure out. I did a complete tune-up; plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor. Installed new fuel pump and filter and replaced the rubber fuel lines. Re-built the carb.
Truck starts and idles fine. While sitting idling I can run it up to 4K RPM and it sounds fine. When I drove it for the 1st time it bucked, spit and generally ran like crap as it gets to around 2K RPM. I figured it had old gas in it. Filled tank and put in a bottle of Yellow Heet. Ran a little better but still hesitates when I put the power down.
Any ideas on what this might be and how to fix it?

 

What I would do:

I would put in a fuel tap, i.e. a " t" fitting with one outlet for a pressure gauge, then get the vehicle running via pouring a little gas/either down the carb. see what the fuel pressure is; should be a minimum of about 6 - 7 pounds - again, at minimum.

Stop engine then:
... do a volume test, pull the fuel pressure gauge out of the 't' fitting, and put in a line which goes to a container. Once your sure there are no leaks, start the engine and run for a minimum of 30 seconds and see what volume of gas came out. Should be no less than a pint if ran for 30 seconds.
From there transfer this fuel into a glass container to see what it looks like ... prolly full of crud.

Remember that gas is expensive and likes to catch fire at the worst possible time, so have a hose ready.
Read instructions before doing, Your mileage may vary. Follow all safety precautions.

And of course:
Void where prohibited or taxed. :xeye:

If that don't help, then an ohm test on the coil would follow.

 

Re: What I would do:

I would put in a fuel tap, i.e. a " t" fitting with one outlet for a pressure gauge, then get the vehicle running via pouring a little gas/either down the carb. see what the fuel pressure is; should be a minimum of about 6 - 7 pounds - again, at minimum.

Stop engine then:
... do a volume test, pull the fuel pressure gauge out of the 't' fitting, and put in a line which goes to a container. Once your sure there are no leaks, start the engine and run for a minimum of 30 seconds and see what volume of gas came out. Should be no less than a pint if ran for 30 seconds.
From there transfer this fuel into a glass container to see what it looks like ... prolly full of crud.

Remember that gas is expensive and likes to catch fire at the worst possible time, so have a hose ready.
Read instructions before doing, Your mileage may vary. Follow all safety precautions.

And of course:
Void where prohibited or taxed. :xeye:

If that don't help, then an ohm test on the coil would follow.

1 thing I forgot to mention was that I had a fuel pressure regulator between the fuel filter and carb. (brand new and installed by me).

I removed the fuel filter; it looked OK but changed it and installed a fuel line directly to the carb without the fuel pressure regulator. Also tightened up the bolts on the intake manifold; one was a full turn loose and another was 1/2 turn loose.

Runs like a champ now! Carb needs to be tweaked a little but much better than before.

Thanks for your help.

 

I have a 1995 Ford F150 5.0 liter. The speedometer jumps around like crazy. My only guess would be the speedo cable? Maybe the speed sensor?

 

My wife has an 01 Kia Optima LX with 2.4 4 cylinder A/T. It just rolled over 100k and of course everything started going wrong with it. Now I have 2 questions for you guys. 1. The car will be doing fine going down the interstate then the next thing you know it downshifts itself down to 3rd gear and the check engine light pops on and then when you get off the interstate it just stays in 3rd gear. Autozone says its the speed sensor but the car has 2 is there anyway to determine which one it might be without having to pay for a diagnostic test?

Then the 2nd question is I have had to replace the alternator in this car 3 times in the past year with brand new alternators but luckily I have a lifetime warranty that has covered this. Is there anything that could cause burning so many up?

Thank you guys for all your help

 

Not a transmission guy but I'll take a shot at the second question.

Sounds like your alternator is being worked to death.

So let's start with the basics. Load test the battery - can be done for free at Auto Zone and all national chains. If it passes, great, but if it's marginal or wan't properly cured, then get an Optima. Try to get the one with both top and side mount terminals.

Always use a battery charger should the battery go dead. Using the car's alternator to charge it back up - strains the system.

Get yourself a decent Digital Volt - Ohm meter. Must have at least 10K "high impedance" look for a Blue point (Snap On Brand) or Fluke. on ebay, or Radio Shack has a decent one at about $70.
Start doing voltage drop tests at every connection. All kinds of sites on the 'web and you tube showing you how.
If money is too tight for buying a decent meter, then break out the elbow grease and sockets.
1. Clean the battery Terminals, check for corrosion where the cable instulation goes into the metal clamp.
2. Unbolt the Negative terminal, then start with the positive Battery cable Usually has two heavy gage wires, one to the Starter, & One to the Power Distribution Box. Make sure the connections are clean and tight. Don't trust your eyes, but disassemble and clean then down to 'bright' metal.

Remember, while the Neg battery cable is off, and separated from the battery, you won't get the sparks and fireworks should you accidentaly ground sumpn's.

Using a bit of steel wool, clean the area on the block where the Neg cable attaches. If you are in a high rust potential area, then get some 'conductive grease' from the hardware store. It's the stuff they use when assembling aluminum wires, this is the complete opposite of "Dielectric grease', but they both have the same intent: Keeping water and Oxygen out of the connection thus forming films that hinder the passage of electrons.
When reassembling the connection at the block, put the amount equal to two match heads on the bolt's threads. After you have cleaned them off course. Make sure you use a lock washer.

Now look for the straps that run from body to frame, or directly to the Battery's Neg terminal.
Again, you want everything clean and tight. Be careful as there is a lot of aluminum used in car these days, that stuff will strip out faster than snot ;^)

On certain GM products, look for a braided metal strap that runs from the back of the engine block to the firewall. If it's discolored in anyway, then the forgoing suggestions are mandatory.
For the record: I own no stock in any products I mentioned/will mention:
Hit everything with a blast of "PB Blaster" before beginning work or disassembly.
Don't buy it from Wal-Mart, it's the same price every where.
Use a product called "Liquid Tape" for any bare spots on your wiring if YOU CANNOT cover it with those shrink tubes. (They look like a straw, you slide a couple of inches of it over the bare spot - apply heat till it shrinks and make a tight fit.
Pretend you're a cowboy looking for stray cows but their really electrons which have met resistance, hence go looking for another path back to the Negative battery Post.
They will do a bunch of harm - if they don't get back the WAY the vehicle's designers and engineers intended.
If you have a CB radio installed or any serious add on after market stuff?
Do what the Audiophiles do:
Double up on the grounding system. They call it the Holy Three: Battery to Starter Motor: Nice big fat cable; Don't be fooled by thick insulation, talk to your parts counter guy. Just like a shotgun - lower number means more effect.
Next: Frame to Battery - again, get as big as you can for that.
Followed by: Body to battery. Keep in mind "Your car's entire body is an extension of the Battery's Negative post. Remember the battery with the top and side mounting posts I mentioned? Run these extra cables to the unused top or side post.
A couple of Warnings - Some GM products have modules which will go to sleep permanently requiring $ hundreds of dollars in replacement cost + a trip to the dealer for re flash of the car's computer, if they lose power .
Know your car.
Second:
When you are around batteries, wear approved safety goggles, when SHTF, you want your eyes to be protected. Have a hose nearby for flushing - just because S-H's.

You will need a decent Voltage meter to test for leaking AC voltage from the Alternator, this happens when the Diodes go bad.

IN MY Experience: Cars that eat up alternators will blow a head gasket 10x's faster than 'normal' cars. I suspect this is due to corrosion and electrolysis. So change your anti-freeze - on this car at every 20k miles. Check for a goo that looks like peanut butter with rust in it in the expansion tank. This is the by- product of the additives in the anti-freeze doing their job.

Just because the Anti-freeze is pretty bright green doesn't mean it fit for use.
That can be done for less than two movie tickets and a bucket of popcorn and sodas.
And No the stuff isn't end of the world toxic, in fact it's biodegradable. Careful using it, there's reports that dogs like to drink it and it is toxic.
HTH