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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning gents... I would appreciate some input and ideas w.r.t. fortifying ones house/farm/small holding...

My first idea is that I'm planning to design/manufacture a bracket of sorts that can allow for the quick/easy installation of shutter boards to cover all my windows and doors... In the states it's relatively easy due to the fact that the houses are made of wood, however, here in South Africa, the majority of our houses are built out of brick.

I've seen stacks of ideas but non of them mitigate tampering from the outside. Unfortunately our 'Zombies' can think!!!

I was thinking of using pre-installed RAWL bolts, but once the shutter board (25mm) has been attached, I'm still left with the exposed nut which can easily be removed... The other option is that I permanently mount angle iron (38mm) on the inside window jam, to allow for the installation of snug fitting shutter boards... I could use round bolt heads on the outside and then affix from the inside, but, again the problem is going to access for tightening of the nut.

What ideas do you guys have? I would also like to keep the windows intact through all this... I was thinking of drilling through the window frames, but, I risk breaking the glass... :confused:

There's talk of installing the shutter board on the inside, but once I'm done the house should look as if it already has been plundered... i.e. Rubble in the driveway, serious gang type graffiti on the shutter board, etc.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here's a few good ides for securing the doors from the inside... I would of course be securing all the brackets with RAWL bolts and use at least a 3mm steel plate.





 

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British guy in Zambia
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What about eye expansion bolts top and bottom. Drill holes in the cover, place cover over window, secure with a steel bar through the eyes, and then weld the ends to prevent easy removal. When you want to remove, just cut the ends off the bar. The bolts aren't affected, and you can use the cover and bolts again, you just need a new set of bars.
 

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There's talk of installing the shutter board on the inside, but once I'm done the house should look as if it already has been plundered... i.e. Rubble in the driveway, serious gang type graffiti on the shutter board, etc.
I foresee one problem here, you are going out on the assumption that the looting will go along with every bad story in a movie ever told. Realistically we can assume, with our thinking zombies, that the target for looting will also be marked for destruction. i.e burnt to the ground. by adding wood in front of your windows you are adding proverbial wood to the fire. my 2c
 

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British guy in Zambia
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I foresee one problem here, you are going out on the assumption that the looting will go along with every bad story in a movie ever told. Realistically we can assume, with our thinking zombies, that the target for looting will also be marked for destruction. i.e burnt to the ground. by adding wood in front of your windows you are adding proverbial wood to the fire. my 2c
I agree with this, they will burn everything down. And I don't think some ply is going to stop them getting in.

If you don't have bars already, and don't want them permanently, then perhaps the solution I suggested re eye expansion bolts, with a more robust metal cover/bars, could be a solution. Obviously more expensive, but should be more robust (nothing will stop a determined thief though) and less flammable.

Have a few windows that have the system inside, with a hinge, and padlock instead of welded shut, so you have an escape route.
 

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On what date did kev sell
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Sorry for encroaching on your SAP thread but:


If you use 2x4 lumber on the inside and use Carriage bolts with the "head" on the outside, the bolt must be hacked out with a tool as the threads and nuts would be on the inside.

Carriage bolt, incase yall have a different name for it:

 

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On what date did kev sell
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You can cut pieces of Corrugated Sheet metal to cover the plywood from the outside to aid in the prevention of the removal Carriage Bolt (Cup Screw) and add fire protection.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The use of a RAWL bolt will allow me to remove the bolt/nut that's been welded to destroy the spanner seat/holds on the outside later b.m.o. a grinder, and, as has been said, I could then just remove the threaded bar (bolt) from the sleeve and replace... Makes sense...

I do like the corrugated galvanized sheeting... Also, as per Tyler, I could treat the timber with flame retardant...

My reasoning for using RAWL bolts is that, the entire installation will be done from the outside, later allowing to remove 'ALL' and simply be left with a few RAWL Bolt sleeves... Which I could fill if needed...

 

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I've seen lots of boarded up houses over the years and can tell you if its plywood it can be breached with a pocket knife. My solution is 1/4" steel sheeting. Weld the bolt heads on the interior of each sheet and when mounted through the 2X4 cross pieces you have something more substantial. When you count up all the expense with the plywood, galvanized sheeting etc its about the same. You could weld together a frame out of 2X2 angle iron that would be mounted outside the 1/4" and screwed into the headers and jambs. Tack weld the 1/4 " to the angle iron from the inside and this would make it pry proof also. Or if you wanted to just weld the 1/4 inch plate to the 2X2 angle iron from the inside and forget the 2X4s altogether.
 

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Better to weld than to bolt. I'd do angle iron pivoting frames in front of the windows, counter weighed ,pivot rods a half meter out from the house anchored in cement latch them down along the house side. Hard to see when deployed. THE SNAGGLE WIRE IS LOOSE BARBED WIRE. Not sure what your gun laws are there but ours in my state are nearly non-existant. Your best deterrent is at least one or more attackers tangled up in barbed wire screaming after getting hit close range with no. 4 buckshot packed in rocksalt. That's a hillbilly version of the old SAS Manila load for a shotgun. Lots of screams before shock and bloodless quiet them down.
 
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