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Discussion Starter #1
ok so im working on saving the money up right now to get my first one i was amazed at the price when i asked my local gun shop it is now 700 something for one here. so i was wondering do you guys think it would be cheaper if i bought my own stripped reciever and just built my own from the ground up with a parts kit???
 

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You almost need a metal shop depending on what kit you get. Welding, bending, stamping... etc. Just find out when the next big gun show is near you and go there, you should be able to get one for 1/2 that price I would imagine.
 

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Unless you are confident with building up kits it might be better to hang onto your money and shop around. 700.00 isn't out of line with what I've been seeing for prices on the better NIB AK's. My guess is the price is going to keep going up.
Peter
 

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Go to a pawn shop that has a FFL and have them fax it to one of the companies on the net and then buy and have it shipped to the pawn shop and pay them the transfer fee you can get one cheaper then you can build.

If you want to build something that is simple and still cheap build an AR.
 

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IF you can find a kit, and even then you need the tools to do it which is $$$. They have WASR here for $450 and M70AB2 for $550. You could try www.GunBroker.com. I'd opt for the Yugo myself. Prices are hurting since the barrel ban went into affect... *mumbles* F'n congress and BATF.
 

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http://www.jgsales.com/index.php/rifles/ak-47-and-rpk-rifles/cPath/209_214

Call them and talk to them. Let them know you want a pick of the litter and pay the $10 or whatever to get one. Let them know you are worried about sight cant, gas port cant and mag wobble. Let them know that you want to do business and they will take care of you.

They have been very very good for me, and I give them buisness for the inventory items I have purchased.
 

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I built mine from a kit, and I love it. You really need a machine shop/gunsmith to do it right. $700 is pretty much going to be the going price these days for complete working AK, and that's a pre-election price too. I've seen it higher at gunshows actually. They were selling a real dirt ball for $800 last spring at the Ft. Myers show. Here is the one I built:



[URL="http://www.survivalistboards.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3023&d=1205098951"][/URL]
 

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I built mine from a kit, and I love it. You really need a machine shop/gunsmith to do it right. $700 is pretty much going to be the going price these days for complete working AK, and that's a pre-election price too. I've seen it higher at gunshows actually. They were selling a real dirt ball for $800 last spring at the Ft. Myers show. Here is the one I built:



[URL="http://www.survivalistboards.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3023&d=1205098951"][/URL]
Quick question. Is your Mag size in the picture your in the well opener? Is it so you can fire through a mag change from an adversary that has 30s?

Thx.
 

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My respectful advice would be this...

Just because you can build up your own AK from a kit doesn't mean you should build up your own AK from a kit.

If you're looking to save your money, remember these two things:

1) Even a bargain-basement AK, like a US-build Century WASR built from a Romanian parts kit, is still an AK, and a crappy AK is a lot closer to a top-of-the-line AK than, say, a crappy AR is to a top-of-the-line AR.

2) Sometimes even Century gets it right on their discount AK builds. There's a night-and-day difference between a "Monday" WASR (perfect alignment, precisely cut mag well, etc.) and a "Friday" WASR (canted gas block and/or front sight, sloppy mag well, etc.). I would never order a Romanian Century AK over the Internet, sight unseen, but I'd definitely feel fine going to a local dealer with several of the rifles in stock and hand-selecting the best one, once I knew what to look for.

Conversely, if you're looking to save your @$$, remember these two things:

1) Your first build of an AK (or any rifle) is unlikely to demonstrate your full potential, as you're not as familiar with the little tricks, pitfalls, and nuances you will come to understand after you've build a dozen, a hundred, or a thousand of them.

2) You can take a high-quality parts kit (which are getting harder to come by) and send it to a well known, qualified, experienced AK builder (Jim Fuller of Rifle Dynamics in Nevada is the guy I trust) and have him build you an AK to your custom specifications for not that more than the price of a top-line factory model. Heck, you can even send out a WASR for a "tune-up" rebuild! What you'll get back from a competent gunsmith with lots of AKs under his belt is a rock-solid reliable battlefiled-proven weapon of high quality, one you can be sure you can trust when SHTF.
 

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Ak stuff

I HAVE SEVERAL, BOTH FROM IN COUNTRY MANUFACTURES, AND BUILT BY A LOCAL CLASS 2 S.O.T. DEALER. MY NEWEST ADDITION TO THE SAFE IS A "BULGI" "KRINKOV" BUILT OFF OF A KIT(UNDER FOLDER), AND LET ME TELL YOU.... I WAS PRESENT FOR THE ENTIRE BUILD,EVEN STAMPING THE RIVIT'S IN MY SELF(WITH HIS GUIDANCE), BLASTING AND PARKING THE PARTS ALSO..... SO IF YOU DONT HAVE THE TOOLING AND EXPERTISE TO BUILD ONE ,DONT BOTHER IT WILL TURN TO SH*T QUICK!, MY GUY IS ALWAYS GETTING IN CRAP SENT TO HIM TO FIX, THAT OTHER PEOPLE TRIED TO DO @ HOME AND HAVE TO SEND OUT TO HIM TO GET DONE RIGHT, AND THERE IS ALWAYS A LOSS OF MONEY ON THE PART OF THE OWNER.... BESIDES IF YOUR BUYING A RECIEVER TO BUILD ON, MOST S.O.T. GUYS CAN BEAT THE PRICE FROM THEIR CONTACTS, AND YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR GETTING! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanks for all the advice guys im probably just gonna buy a full one first before i try going for building after i buy my full one ima buy up some parts kits for later :)
 

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Quick question. Is your Mag size in the picture your in the well opener? Is it so you can fire through a mag change from an adversary that has 30s?

Thx.
I like the 40 rd mags for several reasons. 10 more rounds than the other guy can be a good thing, but it's not unduly heavy. It will be likely more than a ten round advantage if the adversary has an AR. Of course the AR has it's advantages over me too! Also, the 40 rd mags take two 20 rd boxes of ammo to load them. No extra rounds to manage in partial boxes in either odd or even number of mags.
 

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I have a 40 for the well too so I can miss the first mag change.

The progression is naturally display, the loud noise of the action, ground fire to demonstrate/kick up gravel, then engage. Unless fired on first, then its engage. The next step is a change to the first drum, then more while retreating, or opening a funnel into crossfire.

I would think a 40 should be adequate for a many engagements, if one is doing their part, and not panic spraying. I have the five 30 rounder pouch too, but one drum change trumps fiddling with 5 mags so its a last resort.
 
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