Survivalist Forum banner

1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Forum Administrator
Joined
·
16,790 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Some kind of worse case situation has happened, you and your family have to bug out to the Bug Out Location, and how what?

Keep in mind, this is a worse case situation, meaning you did not have time to grab any gear from your home.

The only gear you have, is the gear you have stored at the Bug Out Location.

In such as situation, what 4 firearms would you want?

The firearms need to be reliable, somewhat service free, do not cost a small fortune and in case your Bug Out Location was broke into the firearms will be easy to replace.

The first thing people will probably say, “I want an M1A, FN/FAL, remington model 700 or a PTR91″. For the sake of discussion lets rule out all firearms that cost anywhere close to $1,000. In fact, lets rule out all firearms that cost over $500. This pretty much rules out all ARs and the majority of AKs. Lets go ahead and rule out all AKs just for fun.

Marlin Model 60 – the first thing people are probably going to say is, “oh come on, the Ruger 10/22 should be first”. I can respect that opinion about the Ruger 10/22, its a great rifle.

Here are the reasons why I listed the Marlin Model 60 instead of the Ruger 10/22

1 – The Model 60 uses a tube magazine instead of a detachable magazine. This means you have one less thing to worry about, which is stockpiling magazines or losing the magazine.

2 – Marlin Model 60 has a slightly longer barrel then the Ruger 10/22, which means a slightly lower report.

3 – The Model 60 has better sights then the 10/22. On the rear sight, the 10/22 has screws that have to be loosened then retightened to adjust the sight. The Model 60 has a ramp to adjust the rear sight.







SKS – its reliable, cost less then an AK47 or Ruger Mini-30, easy to operate, easy to learn, and can be found in just about any gun show.

There was once a time when the SKS cost less then $100, but those days are long gone.

Why should we keep an SKS at the Bug Out Location? The 7.62×39 round is effective on deer and hog sized game, its also effective on looters.

Take the factory 10 round magazine out, attach a 20 round magazine, and you should be good to go.

Remington 870 – used by hunters and police all over the U.S. The 870 has a reputation of being reliable, regardless of the situation its in.

There is a reason why duck hunters prefer the Remington 870, it works. Plain and simple, the pump action is reliable.

The amount of after market parts for the 870 is mind boggling – slug barrels, stocks, sights, slings, side saddles,,, there are all kinds of add-ons and accessories on the market.

The interchangeable choke allows hunters to to change the choke to customize the pattern size to types of ammunition being used.

*Special mention goes to the Mossberg Model 500 and the Winchester Model 1200 and Winchester Model 1300

* The Mossberg 590 does not have a choke, and has a shorter barrel then the Remington 870.

Bolt action rifle – if you want to go really cheap, there is the Mosin-Nagant. The 7.62X54r should be able to take just about anything besides the largest game in North America. If you want something that is effective on deer and hog sized game, the Mosin-Nagant should be all that you need.

If you wanted to spend a little bit more money, there is the Mossberg ATR and the Remington Model 770.

There are so many good quality bolt action rifles on the market, both civilian and military, it is futile to list all of them. There are a lot of military surplus rifles out there, and a lot of good rifles in the civilian market.

Why list a bolt action rifle? To take over where the SKS drops off. If you need something larger then the 7.62×39, or need more range, that is where the bolt action comes in.

Why not a lever action? Because the 30-30 start to drop off pretty bad past 150 – 200 yards. If you have a 7.62×39, can you justify having a 30-30? Maybe yes and maybe no. How much money do you want to drop on this project? $250 for an SKS, or $400 for a lever action. You can buy an SKS and a whole bunch of ammunition for the price of a single Marlin 336.

My personal preference would be a good bolt action rifle in 308 Winchester. The 308 is effective on medium sized game, flat shooting, not expensive, and the low recoil makes it well suited for just about anyone in the family.

Lets Review

Marlin Model 60 22 Long Rifle – great for small game and can be used to defend your property. See a coyote or raccoon around the chicken coop, no need to break out the large caliber rifles. A 22 subsonic will help prevent spooking the livestock and should not worry the neighbors.

SKS 7.62×39
– good for defending the property, and is effective on deer and hog sized game. Need more then a 10 round magazine? Add a 20 or 30 round aftermarket magazine.

Shotgun – great for knocking fox squirrels out of the top of pine trees. Loaded with slugs or buckshot make the shotgun effective for defending your property, and just right for deer and hog sized game.

Bolt action rifle - in 308 Winchester (or something comparable) this is for larger game and longer range then the SKS can handle.

Why no handguns were listed – handguns are a last ditch effort in self-defense. If a bad guy is so close that you need a handgun, turn the rifle or shotgun around and use it as a club.

If you absolutely must have a handgun, with the $500 price range in mind, my first suggestion would be something from the Ruger family. A lot of people are probably going to say “Ruger handguns are junk”. Yea whatever. I have owned 2 Ruger pistols and never had a bit of trouble from either one.

Suggestions from the Facebook page

Some of the people on our facebook page helped contribute to this article, here are some of the suggestions:

The new keltech PMR30

Mossin Naggant.. $100 a pop on average, and you can buy spam cans for shelf ammo.. In a pinch, it works..

Ruger 10/22 is a good first choice. After that a KelTec in either 5.56 or 308 (I think the 308 is the better choice, but that is just me).

‎10/22 take down. Stainless, durable, compact, easy to hide/secure.

Mossberg mariner shotgun or JIC model in waterproof tube.

Four or five AK’s

Hit up pawn shops for Marlin or Winchester 30-30s. Great all around rifle with a good round.

Mossberg Plinkster .22. I bought a couple for my boys and paid less than $150 apiece for them. Accurate, and if it turned up missing, you aren’t out much.

Mosin Nagant for around 100-150$, SKS/AK clone 350-450$. Ammo is inexpensive for both and add a double barreled Stoger for 350$ and you have a well rounded long gun set.

A couple of M 91/30′s + a tin of ammo is pretty cheap these days. If you needed a pistol, maybe a M1895 revolver at about $100. For $200 you could get a variety of Milsurp pistols to choose from. P64, CZ-82, Makarov ($250), couple of different Tokarevs, etc.

Marlin model 60 22lr , Remington 870 12 ga, Smith and Wesson 9mm. the guns are affordable the ammunition is readily available, and most anybody can learn to be a decent shot with these weapons.

Mausers are pretty cheap

Hi-Point pistols. Never had an issue with mine with 2000 rounds through it.

Stainless steel ruger 10/22 carbine and 2000 rds. Under $500

I loved the feel and price of the circuit judge and they have a new model I haven’t seen. It’s around 500.

You can find used hi point pistols in the 100 dollar range, and a matching carbine used for around 150. case of ammo for around 200 and u got a long gun, hand gun and 1k rounds for less than ur starting price.

Marlin Model 60 22lr. $200.00 new, Mossberg 500 with dif. barrels $400.00 new. Some good deer rifle for the longer big game shots.

S&W SV9VE (9mm) reliable full size pistol

Police trade-in Glocks. They can be had for ~$350 for Gen IIs and are as low as I go in terms of defensive pistols. Just because you are keeping a gun away from home doesn't mean you should go below the "can trust your life to it" threshold. Cheap is good, but if you can't depend on it 100% what's the point in having it?

I would like to thank everyone that helped contribute to the article.
 

·
Adventurer
Joined
·
19,333 Posts
I find if you take a 6in pvc pipe you can drop in a greased and wrapped moisan a bunch of ammo and cleaning supplies pun[ with nitrogen n cap it makes hermetically sealed so you can then hide it easily
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
I'll play.

1) Marlin 81 22lr bolt action. I prefer the Marlin to the Ruger but like the simplicity of the bolt over the semi.

2) Wingmaster 870 12ga. I bought a vintage model in great condition for $150. Much better than the Express and cheaper than a new wingmaster.

3) SKS. If I can't have a $500 AK, the SKS will do.

4) Glock in 45acp or Ruger GP100. May have to go with a used one but definitely doable at $500.

In my area I have no need for a long range bolt gun. If I lived somewhere with dangerous four legged animals, my answers may have changed slightly.
 

·
Always have an exit
Joined
·
3,711 Posts
Thinking about the situation. What about LP or OP and god forbid RP at your main station? If the posture dictates confrontation, resources need planning outside the comfort zone.

Main camp being over ran and the BOL. Men have a bad habit of bravado.

Beef up with main camp. If SITREP dictates bug out, your non conventional planning was not in place.

No bus or van will survive superior the GOD.

When word is given each person has a RP (Separate). From that point BOL is a individual task with equipment and substance in place to support prior to winning or losing.

The questions is do you go back or sustain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,721 Posts
I would keep my heavier rifles and major amounts of ammo for all my weapons stored at the BOL. My lighter stuff and a small amount of ammo I would keep with me wherever I am.

For me, weight is the determining factor, not cost.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
169 Posts
I find if you take a 6in pvc pipe you can drop in a greased and wrapped moisan a bunch of ammo and cleaning supplies pun[ with nitrogen n cap it makes hermetically sealed so you can then hide it easily
This is actually a really good way to make a cache. To expand on this:
Completely seal one end.
On the other end, use a threaded cap with a way to seal it.
Put everything you want/need in there. Include a few dessicant packs, just in-case.
Drop some dry ice in, and wait for the fog to completely fill the tube.
Seal, and there should be no oxygen inside.

Of course, you should make sure the weapon and ammo are protected. I suggest vacuum sealing the ammo, if you have the means.

Edit 1: As I said, this would make for a great cache. Bury this at your BOL but have a way to remember where it is. That way if someone does find your BOL, they won't have your weapons.
 

·
Bad Moon Rising
Joined
·
8,896 Posts
One thing a lot of military guys have learned is that you don't truly control any land you do not occupy.

If someone beats you to "your" BOL, it isn't 'YOUR' BOL anymore. It's theirs.

And 'your' preps are now 'their' preps.

You only control something if you already occupy it. Otherwise, its a crap shoot.

That's one reason I'd think twice before pre-staging a lot of weapons at any BOL I didn't live at full time.

Imagine the irony of having one's own weapons used against you as you try to regain what formerly was 'yours'.....
 

·
Opinionated old fart.
Joined
·
8,046 Posts
Glock 17 ($500 if you catch a sale)
Mauser ($200) or Scoped Marlin 30-30 ($450)
Remington 597 with Weaver scope ($300)
870 Express 12 ga with full barrel or a Wingmaster if you can get one under $500.

The old argument can be made for common calibers like .357 or .44mag for a revolver and rifle of course, but I like 9mm pistol and rifle cartridge for a rifle.

Kev, I understand your desire for a tube fed .22 rifle; but you can have a tube feed with a bolt action and eliminate ammo concerns and get more reliability.
 

·
Adventurer
Joined
·
19,333 Posts
This is actually a really good way to make a cache. To expand on this:
Completely seal one end.
On the other end, use a threaded cap with a way to seal it.
Put everything you want/need in there. Include a few dessicant packs, just in-case.
Drop some dry ice in, and wait for the fog to completely fill the tube.
Seal, and there should be no oxygen inside.

Of course, you should make sure the weapon and ammo are protected. I suggest vacuum sealing the ammo, if you have the means.

Edit 1: As I said, this would make for a great cache. Bury this at your BOL but have a way to remember where it is. That way if someone does find your BOL, they won't have your weapons.
if you use the PVC cement it fuses the plastic together so threaded or not when it is done it will be one air tight piece

my thoughts and while the MN is not the best rifle in the world it id decent but, the stock geometry is such that it can easily fit in a 6in pipe where as others with more angles to them would be difficult if you got some scope mounts on them you could toss in the rings and scope in a small case as well and dry ice or nitrogen gas makes little difference once its sealed its sealed

One thing a lot of military guys have learned is that you don't truly control any land you do not occupy.

If someone beats you to "your" BOL, it isn't 'YOUR' BOL anymore. It's theirs.

And 'your' preps are now 'their' preps.

You only control something if you already occupy it. Otherwise, its a crap shoot.

That's one reason I'd think twice before pre-staging a lot of weapons at any BOL I didn't live at full time.

Imagine the irony of having one's own weapons used against you as you try to regain what formerly was 'yours'.....
that is why you hide them there alot of vacation homes summer cabins ect that get burglarized since there not inhabited very frequently by the owners so that would necessitate cacheing it in a manner easily aces sable but not for people who do not know where they are
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
468 Posts
if it has to be hid at a bug out location, i sure would not want to keep anything worth any amount of money away from my house, and i dont think i would trust my life to a SKS with a 20 round tapco mag in it.
in a bug out location away from home, i would hide a used .22 revolver of a decent brand and a double barrel 12 ga, sawed off or plain, either can be made to work again by just spraying penetrating oil on/in them. i dont think i would trust storing anything with any value or working parts in a damp area or someplace that the temp changes 20-30 degrees from day to night, steel will sweat.
 

·
Tire Biter
Joined
·
496 Posts
I love the SKS idea, but I would leave the fixed box mag in place...its one of the primary reasons for the weapon's excellent reliability. I keep mine with a butt stock pouch containing 3 stripper clips of ammo. Loaded, thats 40 rds at hand. Become competent at loading from stipper clips and you will be able to keep the gun fed through most situations.

I have more modern weapon systems, but I still do rapid action drills that include running to the SKS from wherever I happen to be in the house/yard and loading 10 rds from a stripper clip.
 

·
that's like, your opinion
Joined
·
17,821 Posts
for all 500 bucks or lower i would go with:

1. ruger 10/22
2. kel tec SU16C (right on the cost edge)
3. Mossberg 500
4. glock 17 (again right on the cost edge)

all bases are covered, rimfire, centerfire, scattergun, pistol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,721 Posts
One thing a lot of military guys have learned is that you don't truly control any land you do not occupy.
The other thing they learn is to travel light. There is no way to carry a long term supply of ammo as well as a variety of firearms on you while on foot and expect to be able to move fast enough if trouble arises. Vehicles break down, become targets, etc. so you can't depend on being able to transport your whole stash. Using a cache at your BOL (as well as other locations as desired) is really the best solution.
 

·
Safety before not after
Joined
·
515 Posts
I want to play this too.
1.Savage Mark 2 22 bolt gun. it has a 10 round mag and I can use any of the 22lr ammo, even CB shorts for a quiter report.
2.RIA 1911 in 45acp. why? it's a 1911 and a 45.....need i say more
3. mossy 500 or remmy 870 12ga is the way.
4. Howa bolt gun in 308 with box mag kit in a scout set up. the power of a 308 and a scout rifle is so good even Jeff Cooper had one.
all of thies are great guns and could do the job if you train with them.
just an idea for all of you who want to stash the guns some where. If you pull the fire pins or bolt and put them into your BOB then they can not be used against you and can be put into action in no time at all.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
169 Posts
One thing a lot of military guys have learned is that you don't truly control any land you do not occupy.

If someone beats you to "your" BOL, it isn't 'YOUR' BOL anymore. It's theirs.

And 'your' preps are now 'their' preps.

You only control something if you already occupy it. Otherwise, its a crap shoot.

That's one reason I'd think twice before pre-staging a lot of weapons at any BOL I didn't live at full time.

Imagine the irony of having one's own weapons used against you as you try to regain what formerly was 'yours'.....
That's the reason why you have a cache. The cache isn't at your BOL, it's at a random place away from your BOL that you can easily find VIA memory, map, or GPS, and dig it up.

if you use the PVC cement it fuses the plastic together so threaded or not when it is done it will be one air tight piece
Yea, but I figured the threaded side would make it easier to open when you need to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,080 Posts
1. Mosin Nagant
2. Marlin 60
3. Glock 22 (police trade in) w/ 9mm conversion bbl
4. NEF Pardner Pump, Rem 870, or Mossy 500 with two bbls
 
Joined
·
2,241 Posts
I just want to say that I have found Ruger SP101 and GP100 revolvers to be particularly easy to take apart having 1 screw. They have reliable coil springs.
They seem more resistant to rust in their stainless form (I have seen some surface rust on my stainless S&W's before). (GP 100's can be had in blued steel). I keep an SP101 in both my car and truck 365 a year. The only thing that has even shown a hint of rust is the blued front sight on the SP101's.
If I was going to keep a hand gun in an unheated/cooled location it would be either the GP100 or SP101. I have several in .357 including one SP101 in 9mm.

 

·
Adventurer
Joined
·
19,333 Posts
That's the reason why you have a cache. The cache isn't at your BOL, it's at a random place away from your BOL that you can easily find VIA memory, map, or GPS, and dig it up.



Yea, but I figured the threaded side would make it easier to open when you need to.
no when you seal em you gotta hack saw em open as it becomes 1 piece of plastic
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
169 Posts
no when you seal em you gotta hack saw em open as it becomes 1 piece of plastic
Yea, that's my point. Use a threaded cap end like this:


You can easily seal it to be leak and water proof. It's also reusable, and doesn't require you to carry a hacksaw. Hell, you could use 2 trees to open this.
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Top