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I guess everyone has their way of doing things.

The couple of gunsmiths I know, who have done it for a living for quite a few decades, said thats about the worst thing to use, and if the dowel splinters/shatters, it will more likely make things worse.

The few times Ive needed it, brass has always worked well for me.
If the dowel splinters or shatters...it makes no difference. If you can’t dump out the pieces, you can simply keep hammering new chunks in. The splinters will compress just fine, they won’t hurt the barrel, and the bullet will still come out.

Those $10-$30 brass rods will work.
So will my $2 dowel. I’ve only done it a couple of times (never on my own gun) but I’ve never had a dowel splinter.
And I can carry 24” of dowel pieces in a range bag that’s only 12” long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I'd like to add one more suggestion. If that bullet was stuck that hard in the bore, you might want to check the ammo. Was it a factory load? Was it lead or jacketed? Is it the right ammo for this firearm, and if so maybe you should check the bullet diameters on a few with some calipers.
Basic question is why did it fail to exit the barrel of its own power?

I've had two squibs. One on a cap and ball revolver. That one was my fault in that I had left a lot of oil in the cylinder and it contaminated my powder on the load. The other was a revolver using some factory 32 ACP loads (yes you are reading that correctly). The first one sounded a little anemic. The second shot was even worse. I stopped shooting and found the bullet lodged in the barrel (the wooden dowel and hammer had it out quickly). I chalked that up to bad factory loads and I never buy that brand now.

Edit: The bullet being that stuck, sounds like it was a very tight fit trying to run down the bore. Maybe not a low power charge.
Bingo…… It was a reload that an LEO from the local range had lots of….. He gave them to me, I should have known that free Ammo is bad Ammo. It did look like he sat the bullets a little low in the case. But I think it was bad powder as the only report I heard from the shot was the primer.
 

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So I had a squib that was sitting right at the end of a 6” barrel. I tried 2 wooden dowels and an aluminum rod for HOURS… No luck.

So because it was at the tip of the bore I decided to drill a 1/4 inch hole right through the middle of the bullet, collapse the bullet in on itself a little and viola, it came right out….. BUT it would seem my drill bit grazed a spot inside the barrel (about 1 inch deep from the bore) and left some ugly horizontal scratches…. I included a picture for everyone.

How badly will this effect accuracy? Do I need to buy a new barrel? Should I run a bunch of solid copper Ammo through it to try and smooth them out?
View attachment 390673
if the other landings are unaffected, there might be enough momentum to keep it going. But accept the possibility that you may need to get the barrel re-lined By a competent gunsmith. Otherwise it’s now just a point-and-shoot gun vs an aim-and-shoot gun.
 

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Shoot it and see how the accuracy is. It may be possible to send the revolver in to the manufacturer get the barrel replaced.

About 6 months ago I picked up a used Charter Arms Mag Pug. Shot it on my range behind my house and couldn't hit anything with it. Looking more closely at the rifling I noted it was caked with lead. I learned from the shop owner that the previous owner used this revolver for shooting snakes with shot loads. I get the feeling he couldn't hit much with it either.

After trying unsuccessfully to remove the lead from the rifling, I brought it back to the same shop I bought it from and re-consigned it. Told the owner to make sure anyone buying knows the rifling caked with lead.

I could've sent it in to Charter Arms for a replacement barrel. Problem is, it's not worth my time to do that on a gun I'm not invested in.
 

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What kind of gun is it? By the front sight, it kind of looked like a S&W, but wasnt sure.
 
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Next time. Drip a liberal amount of Kroil from both ends. Let it sit overnight. Get a sturdy dowel as close to bore diameter as possible, and start tapping. NEVER put anything steel, especially a drill bit, in your bore. Live and learn.
 

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There is a method I use for getting things out of holes and bores.I make a guide for the drill and tap so it can only go strait and tap the plug for an appropriate screw size. A long screw and washers and I carefully draw it all out.
If the threads don’t hold , I place a nut on the inside and that cures the problem. Not every thing requires brute force.
I agree that a brass rod the size of the bore is a good possible method, depending on the metal stuck.
On a pointed bullet the rod needs a con cave end to fit the bullet nose as not to expand it in the process.
 

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Next time. Drip a liberal amount of Kroil from both ends. Let it sit overnight. Get a sturdy dowel as close to bore diameter as possible, and start tapping. NEVER put anything steel, especially a drill bit, in your bore. Live and learn.
LOL...I'll second that
Actually any good penetrating oil will work.
Snug the barrel up in a heavy duty bench vise using lead jaw pads. That will free up your hands, one for the dowel/rod the other for the hammer. Dead soft lead will grip the barrel and is non marring so the finish will be fine afterwards.

Another good rule of thumb is to never use a metal rod or tool harder than the finish or the barrel steel. Using drill/bits or any kind of steel is just asking for a less than desirable outcome.
 
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LOL...I'll second that
Actually any good penetrating oil will work.
Snug the barrel up in a heavy duty bench vise using lead jaw pads. That will free up your hands, one for the dowel/rod the other for the hammer. Dead soft lead will grip the barrel and is non marring so the finish will be fine afterwards.

Another good rule of thumb is to never use a metal rod or tool harder than the finish or the barrel steel. Using drill/bits or any kind of steel is just asking for a less than desirable outcome.
There are times in everyone's life when one's reach exceeds their grasp, and it becomes incumbent upon all of us to recognize our limitations and receive better qualified assistance than we can manage for ourselves. At the very least, one should at least run their plan past someone else before acting.
 
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There are times in everyone's life when one's reach exceeds their grasp, and it becomes incumbent upon all of us to recognize our limitations and receive better qualified assistance than we can manage for ourselves. At the very least, one should at least run their plan past someone else before acting.
LOL...That's happened to me more times than I can count.
 

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Fortunately I've never got a bullet stuck in a barrel. A friend and fellow handloader had one in a Ruger single action in .45 Colt. He got it out by using 2 grains of Unique under a wax plug, and shot it out. He fired it into a pile of dirt behind his house.

It was just enough to get it out. The bullet could be seen in the dirt. It didn't penetrate more than an inch. Worked better, and a lot faster and easier than beating on the gun with rods and hammers.
 
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Just when you thought you were having a great day at the range...
Wood Gun accessory Air gun Bicycle part Gun barrel

Hummmmmm....Eight slugs stuck in the bore....of a six shooter
 

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LOL. That first one alllllllmost made it. :)
 
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The only squib I’ve dealt with was cap and ball. I undercharged the chamber (experimenting with charges to find a good load for fun plinking: apparently that wasn’t it), and the soft lead ball stuck right at mid-barrel. I used a brass cleaning rod and a hammer from the forcing cone. I gave it a little 5w20 to lube it (I had already lubed the bullet before the shot because it’s black powder), and it popped right out.

Regarding the OP, I’d go through the bore with a cleaning brush to knock down some of the burrs and give it some test firing. Accuracy should be okay enough for range day or Minute-of-bad-guy. Safety should not be effected. Definitely check the batch of ammo the squib came from for diameter, charge weight.
 
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