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I have an early 70s CB350 ... got my license 2 years ago, got it all tuned up with some spare parts, and put about 4,500 miles on it practicing the last two years. for winter, I have late 70s skidoo sleds. all points motors.
 

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The way the market is going if anyone picked up a motorcycle when this thread first started it would be worth much more just on the used market.
The market is hot right now (at least in montana) for dual sport motorcycles of all sizes.
I just quit working at a cycle shop and since my work history goes back to the early 70's I am going to be reconditioning some street legal dirt bikes that can be used right now and with the spares kit i can assemble would make good bikes for the apocalypse. i keep my spares in a galvanized garbage can with metalic duct tape sealing the lid.
I have overhauled countless honda 90/110's and most of the XR hondas and dirt suzuki's and yamaha dual sports. I also build motorized bicycles and can make a zombie attack special if that's what someone wants.
Double the size of the main jet and make sure the engine is room temp and you can run alcohol in most bikes.....that's what they do in Brazil.
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before you porchase anything look at your body weight then look at the weight of your supplies..

for me if i had to abandon a 4x4 i would look at something packable whether it be a rokon or the old postie bike..

with caveat that look at the weight of cartage.. of you and supplies
 

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if you are looking at a rokon the ones with the honda or kohler 4 stroke engines are the only ones I would consider. I have done bare frame, powder coat everything restorations on a rokon and i have worked on the old 2 stroke rokons. For my money i would much rather have a honda CT90/110 with the two speed sub transmission. (there was one or two years where they dropped the two speed and i would not recommend those) 100 mpg and 45 mph on the road and then in low range able to pull you and gear up hills till you lose traction .I have seen people pack out a deer with the trail 90's and i used to ride two up down the road. If you are reasonably fit you can also muscle one over a armco highway barrier and make your own trail thru the pucker bushes.
 

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If we are talking about the old postie either the 90 or the 110, you average between max human 50-75/80kg with a max cargo not exceeding 20-25 kg

If you are between 100-140kg you would exceed the motorbikes weight limit by yourself let alone the weight of the cargo when and where distance is king on 125 cc engine
 

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If we are talking about the old postie either the 90 or the 110, you average between max human 50-75/80kg with a max cargo not exceeding 20-25 kg

If you are between 100-140kg you would exceed the motorbikes weight limit by yourself let alone the weight of the cargo when and where distance is king on 125 cc engine
In the real world i guess a 140KG person would probably be sitting at home watching TV and eating chips (unless they were a american pro foot ball player or Eric the huge pro wrestler).
I weigh 90kg and have hammered several CT90's day in and day out and used them in very rough country. Where I live they are used for checking irrigation ditches and sprinklers and herding cows. People also ride them across the USA and the trips across the outback in AU are well publicized. I have worked in shops fixing the hondas after they have spent years working and they just keep on working. Still my go to bike.
 

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Survival motorcycle ? My suggestion would be stay off motorcycles if you want to survive. You’re 29x more likely to die per mile driven. And remember that includes drunk people and teens driving cars.
 

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1 thing with honda's kept within weight spec they're reliable for decades and decade start moving in the realm overloading the chassid is the day you breed failure point into the motor bike..

I weight 130KG and stand over 60 foot tall so to answe the question of weight i guess anything above 250cc would be a optimal option in a motorcycle ...

if you are at max weight prior to adding additional weight in fuel and supplies you defeat the purpose you are going to have enough issues keeping it on the road let alone using it in a off road capacity, which is likely 15-25kg lighter to begin with

bulk clay and some gravel yea start geting into beach sand to bulldust-talc powder nope..

Most farmers i know typically use 125-250 cc motorbikes same one's they run around dirt track comps..

never seen something resembling a postie bike doing cattle or a sheep muster.
 

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Survival motorcycle ? My suggestion would be stay off motorcycles if you want to survive. You’re 29x more likely to die per mile driven. And remember that includes drunk people and teens driving cars.
And by all means beware of owning guns, ladders, bathtubs or hammers....they all cause deaths as well. I am talking post apocoliptic transport here not osha approved self driving cars while wearing a mask. How about drunk people on motorcycles.


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Survival motorcycle? My suggestion would be stay off motorcycles if you want to survive. You’re 29x more likely to die per mile driven. And remember that includes drunk people and teens driving cars.
To each his own I suppose. I've been on and off-road for almost 50 years and still actively ride off-road. The least of my concerns will be typical lane intruders like drunks, inattentive drivers and texting teens. Agree with Bill - we're talking extreme cases here.

I would go further to say that in an emergency scenario where evac / transport demands maneuverability and speed there's no substitute for a great enduro bike ('cept a horse of course*)!

* uses a broader range of fuels!

I'm 200lbs, 6'3" and a 250 is too small for me in general + all the gear I could pack. A 400/450 cc bike will get the job done nicely. The XR500R thumper I mentioned earlier is probably better due to it being air cooled, no circuitry to speak of, and with a 5.5 gal desert tank, the range is substantial 45 mpg ave. and it'll do 80 mph. The back up ride:
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Survival motorcycle ? My suggestion would be stay off motorcycles if you want to survive. You’re 29x more likely to die per mile driven. And remember that includes drunk people and teens driving cars.
I researched this common refrain when I wanted to get my license and ride and it isn't really accurate, unless you are drunk, on drugs, riding in rush hour, or on a superbike. If you rule out those variable, and are not crazy - it is like riding a car safety wise. That being said, if you also rule out riders who get in an accident withing 6 months or starting to ride, then the statistics sway in favor of the person on the motorcycle being safer than being in any other common car or truck.

Ironically, 4 wheel drive vehicles cause like 75 percent of accidents in inclement weather. I found this gem years ago looking at DOT data when researching vehicles. If you asked 1,000 peopel maybe a handful would have any idea of this.
 

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On the other hand.....my favorite for a bigger bike that uses a simple points ignition is any of the mid sized bikes from pre 1980 or so. They were quality built and some can be found still for a good price. Put some beefy knobbies on them and put some lower gearing even if it's only a smaller countershaft sprocket. Another plus with them is they will go up in value so they are a fun rideable investment. Most need a 12 volt battery to run but any 12 volt with enough amperage will run them.

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I have said it before....speed is not an asset.......reliable....with high MPG...and the capability to transport a modest amount of gear.....one minor mistake at low speed...compared to a minor mistake at high speed.......will determine how the rest of the day will go

riding big bore.high speed monster bikes are very fun,,,but to use as a shtf....fun is not the goal
 

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I have said it before....speed is not an asset.......reliable....with high MPG...and the capability to transport a modest amount of gear.....one minor mistake at low speed...compared to a minor mistake at high speed.......will determine how the rest of the day will go

riding big bore.high speed monster bikes are very fun,,,but to use as a shtf....fun is not the goal
This $500 bike with extra tanks held over 450 miles worth of gas, goes places 4wd won't go because of width. Something like this will do me just fine. Not everyone should depend on a motorcycle, bicycles work just fine for some things. I also have a CT90 honda. kind of like having a 22 or a 50 cal....different tool for a different job.

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"This $500 bike with extra tanks held over 450 miles worth of gas, goes places 4wd won't go because of width."
"I also have a CT90 honda. kind of like having a 22 or a 50 cal....different tool for a different job"

I agree...different tools.....

its a bit different....escapng down a road....after shtf....that is packed with desperate people....compared to going places...that are not roads....and high speed is a liability .. compared to capability.

would you be able to go places with your loaded street bike.....as shown...that you could go on your CT
 

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This $500 bike with extra tanks held over 450 miles worth of gas, goes places 4wd won't go because of width. Something like this will do me just fine. Not everyone should depend on a motorcycle, bicycles work just fine for some things. I also have a CT90 honda. kind of like having a 22 or a 50 cal....different tool for a different job.

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I feel like an e bike would be better. Or a recumbent ebike/trike. You can’t go as fast so they are a little safer. They use VERY little power and can be peddled when dry. You can solar charge them , but unlike an electric car , it won’t take a week. They don’t make a lot of noise. And you can get them with pretty decent ranges. In the hundreds of miles.
 

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I don't think the Ural solo is a good choice. It may be solid but it is heavy. Also, getting spare parts for when it does break wil be a pain. I used to own a 1995 Ural side car rig and needed some work done on it. It took quite a while to get parts. It also required more maintenance than the older early 80s jap bikes I owned.

Any of the japanes dual sports would be fine. Even their 650s are lighter than the Ural and you can get parts for them. Older ones wil have the carbs you want and be way cheaper the a new Ural solo. Hell, a new one will still be cheaper than the Ural solo andyou could convert the EFI to carbs if you or your mechanic know how.

New Ural solo = $7,200
New Kawi KLR650 = $6,150
I disagree. After the SHTF there will be no parts available, so get something you can repair with a
bush fix. Also, look at DIESEL bikes because gasoline degrades quickly to uselessness because of
the alcohol content which pulls moisture from the atmosphere ruining carburetion and fuel injection
systems.

  • The Best 7 Diesel Motorcycles That Actually Work! | Autowise
    autowise.com/top-diesel-motorcycles
    The Track T800CDI is probably the first diesel motorcycle on this list that has the look and feel of a real, modern bike. It’s very much like the Yamaha Super Tenere in appearance, and it’s kitted out to give the rider a real dual-sport and adventure ride.
Diesel is easily stored long term and remains usable for much longer than gasoline. Most militaries
of the world use diesel as their exclusive fuel. Even after the SHTF, there should be sources of
diesel. You may want to invest in a 12 volt transfer pump with long intake/exhaust hoses so you
can pull diesel out of storage tanks wherever you find it.

WestTxDesertRat
 

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my old bike gets about 60-65 mpg just rolling along at 35-40. It is just another way to get around, it can do things that a car or truck can't do, so - it just adds a capability. I don't think I'll be outrunning anyone though unless they are on foot, I run 275lbs, and it is a twin CB350. Lively enough for me, but to modern bike standards - I think a car could easily keep up with me and run me down.
 
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