I have no idea why you can't see them, I can see them & they appear to be playing just fine. Try again, give them time to load, & get back to me if there is still a problem.If these are videos, I do not see them
In my 60 plus years of using a muzzle-loading arm, I have never experienced any so called "flash rusting" of locks or barrels whilst using hot water, & I NEVER use soapy water as this I have been told tends to draw the protective oil out of the barrel & lock.no need for hot water unless your making tea or coffee.
cool or room temp soapy water cleans just as good if not better because it does not cause flash rust in the barrel.
Because I do not use Microsoft browsers. I prefer not to have them spy on me, and put up with pop ups every few minutesI have no idea why you can't see them
Fair enough Trip Wire. May I suggest you go to my channel & type in a search there, or just scroll through my videos: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHEOMSZJETfj3GnoyONuvCQ?view_as=subscriberBecause I do not use Microsoft browsers. I prefer not to have them spy on me, and put up with pop ups every few minutes
My Father used to clean his guns with Pigeons Milk, as he called it, & water mix. Pigeons Milk is a soluble engineer's oil & we used it cold. Not sure if my Father was using this back in the 20s, but he showed me how to use it in the 60s.Because I do not use Microsoft browsers. I prefer not to have them spy on me, and put up with pop ups every few minutes
Le Loup, I saw enough after scrolling down a bunch.
I disagree on several points. A lot of use have very thin stocks that have been pinned (and fiberglass bedded) to the barrel.
The wood is too flimsy to remove. Thus this takes a bunch of rifles right out of this way of cleaning.
Hot water and soap does a very good job of cleaning the sludge out. Then you season the barrel again.
My waterless way does as good of a clean, and the barrel stays seasoned. Different stokes for different folks.
The Thompson Center 1000+ method coasts money to buy the bore butter and #13 cleaner.
I even soak my patches in the #13, it is my spit lube. Cleans and seasons the bore after every shot.
This why 3 people can shoot 25 rounds during a trail walk one after another with these products.
Back pre 90s when I used production guns. Your method is all we used. There is a small dent in the shower floor where the barrel was too hot to hold and the tang dented the tub.
I wish not to expose the black walnut or Rice barrel to water, on my custom gun.
Say la vie misure
Well for living historians, survivalists & preppers this is not nonsense Trip Wire. Like you said, each to their own.here is something that has been gnawing.
What you and the cool dude on the videos are professing is the way it used to be done.
I did it for years. Same way. Heck even learned a few things form them videos.
I took that information, and using modern ingredients, improved the longevity of my flinter and made it late not only my life time, but my grandsons too.
I have the original recipes for both the clean and lube (called moose milk & moose snot)
But am too darn lazy to make the stuff up. These formulas are from the 1930s, so most golden age folks do not use them.
All that period correct nonsense.
guess my eyes are better than yours then! lolIn my 60 plus years of using a muzzle-loading arm, I have never experienced any so called "flash rusting" of locks or barrels whilst using hot water, & I NEVER use soapy water as this I have been told tends to draw the protective oil out of the barrel & lock.
Why some people get so upset & feel that they have to prove someone is wrong just because they do something differently I have no idea, but here is some information from "The Shooter's Guide" 1816.guess my eyes are better than yours then! lol
seriously do some reading, even during the War of Northern Aggression, no manual or regulation called for boiling water to clean black powder firearms, not even cannons. Heck you would have burned your thumb or swelled your tompion
As for soap pulling the oils out of the barrel, I don't worry about that. I use Minnie Balls with fresh lube of bees wax and olive oil. each time I fire my bore is seasoned and lubed...….absolutely no leading or powder cakeing.
keep the boiling water for coffee and tea, maybe boil an egg, but there is no need to clean a musket with it as cool water works just as good with no flash rusting
Le Loup's method for cleaning a BP gun is exactly the same as my WW2 vet father taught me to clean any modern cartridge firearm after firing surplus military ammunition having chlorate primers. Quite often in the field and when deployed in forward areas behind enemy lines with Jedburgh teams etc. they had to improvise with materials which were in common farm use.
Dad learned during the Great Depression firing cap & ball revolvers and patched roundball "home rifles" being instructed by his Grandfather who was a Civil War vet. The old traditional methods still work.
Great video, thanks for posting! I will post separately instructions for cleaning the M1 Garand and M1911 .45 pistol which I was taught as a lad by GySgt James E. Humphrey, USMC, Ret.
I did not at any stage suggest using soap. Soap will wash the oils out of the metal.As a beginner, I was told to use boiling water and a bit Dawn dish soap. After fumbling around with a really hot barrel and a cleaning rod, I would rinse the barrel and use a clean patch to remove the water. Within a few minutes, the bore of the gun would be covered in a fine coating of red rust.
I would start swabbing with patches saturated with Bore Butter. They would come out dirtier with rust than a .22 rifle's powder fouling!. I used so much bore butter trying to keep the bore from rusting, it would eventually build up in front of the nipple and cause a misfire. Using alcohol and a thick linen patch, I scrubbed the bore clean and used G-96 Gun Treatment on a flannel patch to oil the bore and breach area.
When I go out to shoot, I give it a quick swab with a little alcohol and it's ready to load. This keeps the bore from rusting and does not build up heavy fouling from oil. I also use oil/water mix on patches at the range to swab the barrel once in a while and once before I leave for home.
At home, I flush the barrel with PLAIN warm tap water (not hot!) or blue windshield washer fluid, which works well too. Just pour some in a small plastic jar and flush the barrel. Very hot or very cold water can be quite unpleasant to work with, I find. Straight water, warm with no soap, or WWF (stored in the closet to keep it room temp) cleans just fine