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We live in the country and the last year the power was out for several days, several times. now while it sucks to be in Louisiana with no AC the worst part is the water situation. I was thinking if I had a few 55-gallon barrels of water I could put one in the tractor bucket and hold it up with a house going to the house.

My thinking is it would give just enough pressure to shower and use the toilet. the water softener is in the well house and there's a shutoff between it and the house. I would also close the valves tot the water heater. think it would work?
 

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reluctant sinner
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When my down the hole well pump went out (hole in galvanized fitting at the pump) with 4' of ice on the well head; I hooked up a 12 V DC RV pump to a tank and connected the output to a tee I put on the cold water line to the sink. Worked for months until late spring when I could get to the well.

Was really nice, I could shower, flush the toilet and do dishes just like before. Pump kicked on at 30 and off at 50 automatically. The foot valve under the house kept the water from going back into the well.
 

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We live in the country and the last year the power was out for several days, several times. now while it sucks to be in Louisiana with no AC the worst part is the water situation. I was thinking if I had a few 55-gallon barrels of water I could put one in the tractor bucket and hold it up with a house going to the house.

My thinking is it would give just enough pressure to shower and use the toilet. the water softener is in the well house and there's a shutoff between it and the house. I would also close the valves tot the water heater. think it would work?
2 problems:
1) you faucet might have a back flow preventer ( called a vacuum breaker) to prevent this. For normal residential faucets it is screwed to the hose bib outlet (the garden hose threads) they are generally intended to be non removable. The washing machine box has the same threads (GHT) but no vacuum breaker.

2) my tractor FEL has a maximum lift of around 10’- this give you 4 psi at ground leveL- you will Not get the flow you expect from normal faucets.
 

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2 problems:
1) you faucet might have a back flow preventer ( called a vacuum breaker) to prevent this. For normal residential faucets it is screwed to the hose bib outlet (the garden hose threads) they are generally intended to be non removable. The washing machine box has the same threads (GHT) but no vacuum breaker.

2) my tractor FEL has a maximum lift of around 10’- this give you 4 psi at ground leveL- you will Not get the flow you expect from normal faucets.
we really just need enough to run toilets and even a trickle from the shower is better than nothing. but even is the shower doesnt work we can just use a rag i suppose
 

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Wile E Coyote, Genius.
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The well is hard wired to the house so Im not sure how I would power it. I have thought about it before
You might want to get an electrician to do it, but should be pretty simple. Lots of ways to do it.

It is probably 220 Volts, so the generator will need a 220V outlet.

Like this.
https://www.google.com/search?q=powerhorse+5000&sxsrf=ACYBGNRWR9xwf7S21fTf8EWEJsDQrj_Omw:1575172922478&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjh5YO0yJPmAhUwJzQIHUuaBbAQsxh6BAgNECk&biw=1366&bih=625#spd=16057159753465382257

Around 5000 to 7000 watts should work, depending upon the inrush on your well pump.

A cheap way is to install 30amp plugs on everything. Then just unplug the well from the house and plug into the genny when needed.
 

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If it's just a power problem, get a backup generator for a few hundred bucks and run it when you need water. Where I live nearly everyone has one. For a temporary setup, you can tie into the well pump pressure switch. Just trip the breaker so you don't parallel the generator with the mains. A more permanent setup uses a transfer switch that only allows the generator to connect when the mains are down. Well pumps aren't particularly sensitive so no need to spring for an inverter generator but make sure the generator can provide the surge current when the pump starts.
 

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My well went down and the neighbor volunteered to hook his house to mine through a garden hose spikot while I fixed it, I couldn't tell the difference between getting water from his well and my own. I think I shut a valve to keep water from going down the well.

Now I am using a 110V RV diaphram pump to pressurize my whole house. It has worked fine for about 5 years now.
 

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It will work, just shut off the water to the regular water supply. Since you have a tractor to lift the drum, you could attach a SurFlow 12 volt water pump (with the pressure shutoff) to the line at the drum and run it off the tractor battery, that and the elevation should give you very good water flow. On the hose for the connection, go to Walmart and get you a couple of the white RV water supply hoses. They’re good for potable water and no taste. And the shorter the hose run the better.
 

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we really just need enough to run toilets and even a trickle from the shower is better than nothing. but even is the shower doesnt work we can just use a rag i suppose
Toilets need about 25psi in order to properly function. However a simple 2 gal bucket to either fill the tank or poured into the bowl to flush (takes a bit of technique to get a good flush) and they work just fine.

You will not really get enough flow to make the tractor lift idea usable. Water pressure by height is .434psi per foot of lift. Most home water systems have a pressure switch that maintains pressure between 30-50psi.
 

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prepared for life & death
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Get a genny to power the well.
This is exactly why I have a generator

The well is hard wired to the house so Im not sure how I would power it. I have thought about it before
I simply cut the power wire for the pump inside the pump house and installed 30A twist lock plugs. It's as simple as unplug pump from grid and plug in to generator. Also get a 220V 30A drop cord with corresponding ends.
 

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Wile E Coyote, Genius.
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Toilets need about 25psi in order to properly function. However a simple 2 gal bucket to either fill the tank or poured into the bowl to flush (takes a bit of technique to get a good flush) and they work just fine.

You will not really get enough flow to make the tractor lift idea usable. Water pressure by height is .434psi per foot of lift. Most home water systems have a pressure switch that maintains pressure between 30-50psi.
My toilets will function as long as the tank is full of water. no pressure required.

Commercial toilets without a tank need water pressure obviously.
 

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Just lifting the barrel with the loader may not get you enough head to get more than a trickle. Also is you gave it on tap and flushing toilets 110 gallons isnt much. People tend to have much more respect for the amount of water they use if they have to transfer it by hand.

If the lifted barrel doesnt give you enough pressure you could look into a 12 volt water pump from a camper with a pressure switch.
 

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My toilets will function as long as the tank is full of water. no pressure required.

Commercial toilets without a tank need water pressure obviously.
What the pressure is needed for is to seal the supply valve when tank reaches full. If you will look at your installation instructions that came with your toilet it will mention minimum pressure needed.

Incidentally there are many homes that the toilet shut off valve is leaking by. People are unaware of it because it is a slow trickle. However it does waste quite a bit of water. If you are on a well system with a pressure tank you can spot leaks by keeping a eye on the pressure valve and a ear on if it starts up without any draw going on. For municipal water systems you might need to introduce some dye into the tank and see if it stains the bowl after a few seconds.

ETA: https://support.kohler.com/hc/en-us/articles/360001839033-Minimum-and-Maximum-PSI-for-Plumbing-Fixtures-and-Faucets
 

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Wile E Coyote, Genius.
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What the pressure is needed for is to seal the supply valve when tank reaches full. If you will look at your installation instructions that came with your toilet it will mention minimum pressure needed.

Incidentally there are many homes that the toilet shut off valve is leaking by. People are unaware of it because it is a slow trickle. However it does waste quite a bit of water. If you are on a well system with a pressure tank you can spot leaks by keeping a eye on the pressure valve and a ear on if it starts up without any draw going on. For municipal water systems you might need to introduce some dye into the tank and see if it stains the bowl after a few seconds.

ETA: https://support.kohler.com/hc/en-us/articles/360001839033-Minimum-and-Maximum-PSI-for-Plumbing-Fixtures-and-Faucets
Where would you get such a weird idea?
The buoyancy of the float shuts off the water supply.
 

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Where would you get such a weird idea?
The buoyancy of the float shuts off the water supply.
The float only can shut it off it it snaps up properly at the end of the fill cycle. Which requires a adequate flow of water. I don't care if you do not wish to accept it. It is simply a fact of how they work.

All those homes with leaking fill valves should be a clue.
 
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