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Discussion Starter #1
Finally took my new PTR 91 to the range yesterday. Loaded a Mag with some Tula steel cased 150 grain FMJ, chambered, fired, ejected.

Sighted in again, squeezed, CLICK.

Manually chambered another round, on safe, retrieve the round, slight scratch on the primer.

Pulled on manually chambered round, fired and cycled.

Squeeze, CLICK.

ejected the round, this time small dimple in the primer.

Is this normal for a new PTR 91?

I know the manual says 250-300 rounds to break it in, but come on. If I spend a thousand dollars on a battle rifle it should at least go boom every time I pull the trigger.

On a funny note, my Century C308 eats the Tula like nobody's business, and it is built on a PTR receiver and barrel.

Is this normal break in for a new PTR? Anyone have one of these guns and can lend some guidance?
:(
 

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reluctant sinner
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I would take it apart and lightly stone all the working surfaces to remove the burrs. Clean all the parts, then put it back together with proper lube. Clean the chamber with a wire brush.
 

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What does the manual say? Will it run with brass cased ammo?

I note reading PTR's warranty that it mentions a break-in period in the manual.

https://ptr-us.com/warranty-information/

3. What Is Not Covered?
This warranty does not cover defects or damage due to: (1) Unreasonable use; (2) Failure to properly maintain; (3) Failure to comply with instructions in the owner’s manual including Cleaning and Break In; (4) Improper installation of original PTR parts; (5) Installation of non PTR parts; and (6) Rust, Corrosion, or Obstructions in the barrel. PTR reserves the right to determine what constitutes unreasonable use of the Product. All wooden parts and all accessories are excluded from warranty coverage.
 

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Yes, start with cleaning out any grease, oil or manufacturing debris that might be in the receiver, trigger pack, and trunnion. It sounds like the bolt head isn't fully seating in the trunnion causing light or no strikes. Do you have a set of feeler gauges?

After you fire the first round, check the bolt carrier through the ejection port to make sure there isn't any space at the front. Stick your finger on the carrier and push forward to double check.

It could be a couple of other things, but I would start there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I cleaned it first thing out of the box, And I'll tell you, that bolt is TIGHT, it is very difficult to get back on the carrier to the unlocked position.

it had been lubed, and cleaned beforehand. BUT, I will tear her down again, maybe there is something I missed.
You shouldn't need a pair of channel locks and a leather pad to rotate the bolt.

Apart she comes, will tell you what I find.
 

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I cleaned it first thing out of the box, And I'll tell you, that bolt is TIGHT, it is very difficult to get back on the carrier to the unlocked position.

it had been lubed, and cleaned beforehand. BUT, I will tear her down again, maybe there is something I missed.
You shouldn't need a pair of channel locks and a leather pad to rotate the bolt.

Apart she comes, will tell you what I find.
You generally don't, but sometimes the locking lever spring is very stiff. Are you riding the locking lever up the bolt ridge?

There's a method to rotating the bolt.

If it's only happening on the second round, it tells me that either there's gunk in the gun(you said you cleaned it though)
Or possible a weak or under powered recoil spring not seating the bolt after firing, could be a weak firing pin spring too.

If it's not seating the bolt all the way(weak ammo or recoil spring) it will leave too much space between the firing pin and and primer to be able to strike it. I'd hate for you to have to send it back when it may be a simple fix or running some hotter break in brass.


I would try some hotter brass cased ammo to cycle as well.
 

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Finally took my new PTR 91 to the range yesterday. Loaded a Mag with some Tula steel cased 150 grain FMJ, chambered, fired, ejected.

Sighted in again, squeezed, CLICK.

Manually chambered another round, on safe, retrieve the round, slight scratch on the primer.

Pulled on manually chambered round, fired and cycled.

Squeeze, CLICK.

ejected the round, this time small dimple in the primer.

Is this normal for a new PTR 91?

I know the manual says 250-300 rounds to break it in, but come on. If I spend a thousand dollars on a battle rifle it should at least go boom every time I pull the trigger.

On a funny note, my Century C308 eats the Tula like nobody's business, and it is built on a PTR receiver and barrel.

Is this normal break in for a new PTR? Anyone have one of these guns and can lend some guidance?
:(


Tula primers have been known to fail, I would switch ammo then see how the rifle works...
 

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Tula primers have been known to fail, I would switch ammo then see how the rifle works...
From his descriptor, it’s not the primers, as they’re not dimpling. As one would expect from say .223 Russian primers which may need a bit “more” in some rifles.

Leeds me to believe his rifle is not going completely into battery, but just close enough.

Switching ammo to brass cased during the break in period may help (underpowered Tula round 1). As do the other recommendations.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have been thinking about this (I'm at work) and I think she is just not going all the way into battery.

Charging that rifle requires considerable effort, not sure if the recoil spring is the culprit. So now I'm going to take apart and polish every working surface in the bolt group with polishing wheels and jeweler's compound.

Didn't know Tula was weak sauce.

Tonight I will start the process, let you guys know if I find any burrs.

Won't be able to shoot till Tuesday, but is the Winchester power-point 180 grain hotter?

Hate to burn up good hunting ammo on a break in.
 

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Try a few drops of oil on the necks of the brass in each magazine before inserting it in the mag well.
I wouldn't suggest that, it will gum up the flutes and make extraction worse.

OP- hopefully polishing the bolt head won't void any of the bolt group warranty. I don't know if they case, or harden those bolt heads all the way through.
 

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My Hero Was Derion Albert
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It works on mine when I use the turkish tar sealed surplus ammo. it gets gummed up, I put a few drops of 10W30 motor oil on it and run some more, in 2-3 rounds its not sticking
Now I put a few drops on every mag
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The oil I use is 50/50 Marvel's Mystery Oil and synthetic thirty weight. Has worked fantastic for me, with some penetrating oil properties.

Also MUCH cheaper than buying regular gun oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I wouldn't know about the warranty, I can't get PTR on the phone, been trying for three days. Just keep leaving Rocky (the customer service guy) voice mails.

Maybe if they transfer me to Adrian....
 

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Space Force Recruit
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Not normal, I have owned 5 PTRs over the last few years and every single one worked right out of the box and I always ignored the "break in" period too. Take your trigger housing off and ensure your trigger pack was installed correctly. If it appears correct, check bolt gap using a pair of feeler gauges. Gap should be between 0.018-0.020" for a brand new rifle. Checking the bolt gap is how you check headspace, no other way.

Depending on the date of manufacture some PTR-91 rifles do not have the correct number of barrel flutes and are designed to fire one specific cartridge and do not perform reliably with loads outside of those.
 
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